[oldman]

Originally Posted by bhillakaiceberg

N thread giving useless information

Just because the information from the vendor does not jive with your opinion does not mean it is useless... And yes the need to recalibrate some if not all sensors would affect the routing of the wires as we know that the recalibration requires a 15 warm up in clear air meaning you will need access to the hot wire vs keyed hot under DD conditions.

I have a Ballinger, here is Inovate's blurb:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...ycalibrate.php

The purpose of installing a wideband O2 system in a high performance engine is to accurately monitor the engine’s operating air/fuel ratio to ensure maximum performance and safety. If you are using a wideband system that does not allow the sensor to be recalibrated, you are putting your engine at risk. Whether you only perform the simple calibration once when you first install a sensor, or at the recommended intervals; Innovate Motorsports’ patented digital wideband O2 sensor controller technology will ensure that you have the fastest and most accurate wideband instrument available at any price.


I've underlined it FYI. Are your sure the information is useless?

[BFASTNOTLAST]

Originally Posted by oldman

Just because the information from the vendor does not jive with your opinion does not mean it is useless...

Does the word Troll mean anything?

[bhillakaiceberg]

Originally Posted by oldman

Just because the information from the vendor does not jive with your opinion does not mean it is useless... And yes the need to recalibrate some if not all sensors would affect the routing of the wires as we know that the recalibration requires a 15 warm up in clear air meaning you will need access to the hot wire vs keyed hot under DD conditions.

I have a Ballinger, here is Inovate's blurb:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...ycalibrate.php

The purpose of installing a wideband O2 system in a high performance engine is to accurately monitor the engine’s operating air/fuel ratio to ensure maximum performance and safety. If you are using a wideband system that does not allow the sensor to be recalibrated, you are putting your engine at risk. Whether you only perform the simple calibration once when you first install a sensor, or at the recommended intervals; Innovate Motorsports’ patented digital wideband O2 sensor controller technology will ensure that you have the fastest and most accurate wideband instrument available at any price.


I've underlined it FYI. Are your sure the information is useless?

Im glad you can search the internet! I don't care what a VENDOR says man. I go by my own experience when dealing with cars and performance. This is not my first rodeo. I push the limits and get results. VENDORS are conservative. I am not. Once again...I will DAILY DRIVE a wideband. If you don't think that is good, so be it. Good for you.

[bhillakaiceberg]

Originally Posted by BFASTNOTLAST

Does the word Troll mean anything?

If you want to search the internet tho...Companies such as AEM clearly state that these new sensors: "The wideband sensor is laboratory-calibrated at the Bosch factory, accurate to 0.1 AFR and NEVER requires free-air calibration."

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by oldman

OK, not what the manual says on my wideband nor my experience with it.

"13. How to maximize sensor life
1. Get a baseline tune before installing a sensor. You don’t need
the sensor in most cases to get your baseline timing and fuel
settings.
2. NEVER leave a sensor in an exhaust unheated (disconnected).
3. Don’t leave the sensor in continuously, only use for tuning and
specific monitoring periods.
Ballenger Motorsports AFR500 Manual Rev 1.5 - 11 -
4. Limit your use of the sensor with leaded, race, or oil mixed
fuels.
5. Limit time in water cooled exhausts and avoid this where
possible.
6. Always let the sensor warm up before firing the engine. The
AFR500v2 has a 20 second countdown timer. If you can wait
longer, this will increase the sensor life (to a point).
7. Handle the sensor with extreme care. The sensing element is a
delicate ceramic. Rough handling or drops may destroy the
sensor. "

I try to calibrate the sensor every time I switch it between my rides. I did not calibrate it when I put in headers, I just re-calibrated it this past week. By watching the wideband it was off .030 or so just before the re-calibration...

If you want to say it works as a DD, yep there are numbers that are certainly there.


Never heard of a self calibrating wideband.... I've used a few over the years, but not all so dunno.

Who is the manufacturer of this system and what brand sensor? Sounds like old school technology even if it was a newer product.


Innovate Motorsports LC2 setups do not require any of that stuff. Just a new free air calibration, then make sure you install the sensor correctly(location, orientation, heat sink if needed), and limit leaded fuels and meth. It also uses the latest Bosch sensor technology. I prefer Innovate over all other systems but I will probably be going with the AEM for the OBD2 bus integration. Unless they don't use the newest tech, I will just get the LC2 again and the HPTuners Pro interface for data logging.

[EFI Tuning]

AEM 30-0333 is THE wideband to get. The lack of ground offset issues and 100 Hz data rate is invaluable.

Tim

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Who is the manufacturer of this system and what brand sensor? Sounds like old school technology even if it was a newer product.

Ballinger AFR500 V2, which uses the newest Bosch LSU 4.2 or 4.9, I specifically waited for the V2.

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Innovate Motorsports LC2 setups do not require any of that stuff. Just a new free air calibration, then make sure you install the sensor correctly(location, orientation, heat sink if needed), and limit leaded fuels and meth. It also uses the latest Bosch sensor technology. I prefer Innovate over all other systems but I will probably be going with the AEM for the OBD2 bus integration. Unless they don't use the newest tech, I will just get the LC2 again and the HPTuners Pro interface for data logging.

Um the second quote about sensor recalibration is right from Inovate's site.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...ycalibrate.php


Most popular wideband systems, including Innovate, utilize the Bosch LSU 4.2 & LSU 4.9 wideband O2 sensor. This sensor has an integrated calibration resistor located in the connector on the plug end. Like all sensors in a vehicle, O2 sensors wear over time and being able to recalibrate the sensor is the only way to ensure continued accuracy.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by EFI Tuning

AEM 30-0333 is THE wideband to get. The lack of ground offset issues and 100 Hz data rate is invaluable.

Tim

I will agree on the ground offset.

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by oldman

Ballinger AFR500 V2, which uses the newest Bosch LSU 4.2 or 4.9, I specifically waited for the V2.



Um the second quote about sensor recalibration is right from Inovate's site.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...ycalibrate.php


Most popular wideband systems, including Innovate, utilize the Bosch LSU 4.2 & LSU 4.9 wideband O2 sensor. This sensor has an integrated calibration resistor located in the connector on the plug end. Like all sensors in a vehicle, O2 sensors wear over time and being able to recalibrate the sensor is the only way to ensure continued accuracy.

You missed the part where they are explaining the advantages of the Innovate hardware advancements over their competitors.

The Innovate Motorsports patented digital wideband sensor controller technology eliminates any and all inaccuracies caused by sensor wear. The simple and quick free air calibration process will ensure that you have measurements accurate to ± .1 AFR for the life of the sensor.

Calibrate before installation of the new sensor. Calibrate the sensor again after 3 months of use. Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first.

I've owned the LM1, LC1 and the latest LC2. The LM1 and LC1 require occasional re-calibration. The LC2 does not. I've owned all of them since I first started tuning cars back in 2001. I can vouch for the LC2 staying accurate for years without a sensor failing or accuracy changing. I wonder if they have changed their owners manual since the LC2 was released. It stated no follow up calibrations were needed. The above quotes are what the LM1 and LC1 used to require. Maybe they decided to put the LC2 back under that umbrella. Either way, once a year is super easy to do. IIRC the LC2 doesn't even need a free air calibration for the follow up. Just press the button on the LC2 module.

[LibertyHill]

Originally Posted by EFI Tuning

AEM 30-0333 is THE wideband to get. The lack of ground offset issues and 100 Hz data rate is invaluable.

Tim

Here is my 30-0333 and Aeroforce with red SS lens in the Aeroforce 2-gauge pod:

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Anyhow, there is a grommet just above the brake pedal area and below the sound tube area. It is a big grommet and you have to cut through it. If you look at it there are 3 circles towards the top of the grommet you can cut through and feed wires. Just be sure to seal it back up with RTV.

Thanks. I did not know about that one. I think you could also feed wires through the sound tube itself (if you are into that sort of thing LOL) the same way.

I wonder though which spot might be easiest work with under the dash?

And after searching I think the cleanest way for power is to tap into a switched power source the under hood or trunk fuse box and add your own little fusebox somewhere under the dash. Any other thoughts besides just tapping into a wire under the dash?

Some clever members here!

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Thanks. I did not know about that one. I think you could also feed wires through the sound tube itself (if you are into that sort of thing LOL) the same way.

I wonder though which spot might be easiest work with under the dash?

And after searching I think the cleanest way for power is to tap into a switched power source the under hood or trunk fuse box and add your own little fusebox somewhere under the dash. Any other thoughts besides just tapping into a wire under the dash?

Some clever members here!

I've considered moving the switched power wire to the fuse box in the trunk. In fact I'm going to do it when I purchase rear laser heads for my ALP system because I'll have to run wires up from the trunk to the ALP's CPU under the driver dash. Alternatively I could tap into the under hood fuse panel and run another wire through the firewall but I think the trunk path would be a cleaner look.

[grnflash]

If you're thinking under dash, I found two or three switched power lines under the center console, and a crap-load of constant voltage ones. Plus, it's a hell of a lot easier to get to than under the dash. You can work on it while sitting in the driver's seat. 6 bolts (and the shift knob if applicable) and the whole thing just pivots out. No idea how much amperage your pulling, but at least one line was running basic accessory—I think it was the console lights—on a 10 amp line. Plenty of overhead for my radar detector.

[Rinker]

Originally Posted by bhillakaiceberg

Trying to route my AF Gauge sensor wire from the cabin to the engine bay.

Is there another hole besides the Sound Tube hole where folks have been routing wires from the cabin to the engine bay??

Also where have ppl been tapping power to run aftermarket gauges? Cigarette lighter?

Thanks!

Do you have any update on how you ended up doing it? In the middle of mine right now lol