[Nataphen]

Again, it depends on your goals. I wouldn't want to deal with all that when I plan to go to the road course. If all I cared about was street or drag, then that would be fine. A mild HCI that still idles like stock will put the LT1 up 100whp+ over stock through factory exhaust. Throw headers, 3" cat back, and E85 in the mix, and you'll probably be up 150whp. A 550whp NA car that pulls to 7000+RPM is no joke.

I've had my share of cars with different types of FI, and I like NA better for what I want. Besides, over 550whp on the street starts to become an issue all its own.

[TSloper]

Originally Posted by Nataphen

Again, it depends on your goals. I wouldn't want to deal with all that when I plan to go to the road course. If all I cared about was street or drag, then that would be fine. A mild HCI that still idles like stock will put the LT1 up 100whp+ over stock through factory exhaust. Throw headers, 3" cat back, and E85 in the mix, and you'll probably be up 150whp. A 550whp NA car that pulls to 7000+RPM is no joke.

I've had my share of cars with different types of FI, and I like NA better for what I want. Besides, over 550whp on the street starts to become an issue all its own.

I agree. For pure drag strip performance go with whatever is going to net you the most power across your operating range (assuming traction is mitigate properly).

For a car that is 99% street it just doesn't make sense to chase high low to mid range torque. If you are traction limited (which a stock SS already is in A8 1st gear) adding 200 ft lbs more makes no sense. You won't put it to the ground and after 1st gear you won't be seeing that area again. 5K+ is where you want to see the bulk of the gains and doing it N/A is certainly preferred for many reasons. FI adds weight and is much more vulnerable to thermal issues.

For road racing I can't comment... I haven't done it. I'm guessing mid range mid throttle is more important there. But could be wrong.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by TSloper

I agree. For pure drag strip performance go with whatever is going to net you the most power across your operating range (assuming traction is mitigate properly).

For a car that is 99% street it just doesn't make sense to chase high low to mid range torque. If you are traction limited (which a stock SS already is in A8 1st gear) adding 200 ft lbs more makes no sense. You won't put it to the ground and after 1st gear you won't be seeing that area again. 5K+ is where you want to see the bulk of the gains and doing it N/A is certainly preferred for many reasons. FI adds weight and is much more vulnerable to thermal issues.

For road racing I can't comment... I haven't done it. I'm guessing mid range mid throttle is more important there. But could be wrong.

word.
To my mind the M6 is perfect for autoX and road race or street fights from a roll.

[Nataphen]

Originally Posted by TSloper

For road racing I can't comment... I haven't done it. I'm guessing mid range mid throttle is more important there. But could be wrong.

The main concerns are keeping heat soak in check, having predictable and smooth power delivery, and putting power down well out of a corner. None of those things are typically synonymous with a blower.

If it's centrifugal, there's usually lag like with turbos. If it's a roots or twinscrew, heat is a major issue, and power hits so hard with most of those setups on throttle input that you may have trouble keeping the tires under you on corner exit. NA is just better for the road course.

[JDP Sales]

Loaded question! As many have mentioned, the LT1 is about $1000 more money to do a cam swap. If you are going to make it a track dedicated car, I could see staying N/A but it is really hard to make the same power that a good FI system makes. Also, even if you get close to the same power at the top end, the FI will make much more useable power down low. My 14 1LE had full bolt-ons and a BTR Stage IV cam. I loved the lope and I loved the top end power but I ultimately decided that my 16 would get FI as it would only be a little more $$ and would make more power.

The argument that FI is harder on a motor isn't necessarily correct. While it does put more pressure on the engine, you have to really get into the higher rpms to get the power out of a heads/cam set-up while the blower car can make more power down low, eliminating the need to always zing the engine. The LS3 proved to be good to 750 whp with good tuning and if the same stays true on the LT1, I just think that for most people, a blower set-up is a better return on your investment as it pertains to power.

Just my .02

All the best,

Jared Royce
801.545.4215

[Atra]

Originally Posted by JDP Sales

Loaded question! As many have mentioned, the LT1 is about $1000 more money to do a cam swap. If you are going to make it a track dedicated car, I could see staying N/A but it is really hard to make the same power that a good FI system makes. Also, even if you get close to the same power at the top end, the FI will make much more useable power down low. My 14 1LE had full bolt-ons and a BTR Stage IV cam. I loved the lope and I loved the top end power but I ultimately decided that my 16 would get FI as it would only be a little more $$ and would make more power.

The argument that FI is harder on a motor isn't necessarily correct. While it does put more pressure on the engine, you have to really get into the higher rpms to get the power out of a heads/cam set-up while the blower car can make more power down low, eliminating the need to always zing the engine. The LS3 proved to be good to 750 whp with good tuning and if the same stays true on the LT1, I just think that for most people, a blower set-up is a better return on your investment as it pertains to power.

Just my .02

All the best,

Jared Royce
801.545.4215