Pulley 101 .......info for dummies like me

[jrpxxii]

This might help some of you trying to figure out what the psi should be with pulley swap:

The stock boost for any Magnacharger TVS 2300 Supercharger Kit installed upon any 2010 - 2012 Camaro 6.2L V8 with a 3.80" Magnacharger Pulley installed on it is only 6 psi at wide open throttle.

- 3.60" pulley: expect 2.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 8.0 psi
- 3.40" pulley: expect 4.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 10.0 psi
- 3.20" pulley: expect 6.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 12.0 psi
- 3.10" pulley: expect 7.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 13.0 psi
- 3.00" pulley: expect 8.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 14.0 psi
- 2.90" pulley: expect 9.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 15.0 psi
- 2.80" pulley: expect 10.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 16.0 psi
- 2.70" pulley: expect 11.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 17.0 psi

PLEASE NOTE: If running Long-Tube Headers, you will lose 2 PSI of Boost and to gain that back, choose a pulley 2 sizes smaller!

WARNING: The only way to install the 2.70" Pulley is to have the Jackshaft Housing machined down for it to fit properly. Some Jackshaft Housing Castings are made differently in sizes and do vary, as to what the smallest pulley you can use without maching. The smallest size we recommend is 2.80", without any machining performed on the jackshaft housing casting area.

[Warhorse]

The slippage may not be just from the small front pulley or rear drive.

I for one found (after substantial testing) my slippage was from not having sufficient crank wrap.
Even though I have a 10-14 rib conversion, an additional pulley was required between the belt tensioner and the overdrive crank pulley to eliminate all slippage. Your standard 6rib may be more capable than most think with this addition.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Ray@RDS

Its not always about what you are spinning on the outside, but how well those rotors are spinning on the inside. It has been proven that there is resistance inside, Just not noticeable at the 550 rwhp mark.you end up finding that resistance at the outer most noticeable point pullies and belts. give that blower a lift and port match those intake runners then hold on!

What does this mean?

Originally Posted by Brolik10

You will most definitely need the fuel rail indentation with the OD cog!

I figured either cut them or buy new. Ted's modded ones then me sending the core may be the way to go. Still looking into it.

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

PQ, I think Ted has machined rails in stock and then you can return your core.

If you ever find out why they make such small pulleys that don't work let me know. I'm curious myself!

Originally Posted by Turbo99

PQ as we told you in the other thread, you need a Super tensioner to go below a 3.4 pulley now the 2.8....not sure why they made that I would say a 3.0 will be the smallest you will ever get to hold.

Forgot about the super tensioner. I kinda just planned on handling it with a cog set-up. The tensioner may be the cheapest way but the cog drive is the most guaranteed way as I'm understanding it.

Originally Posted by 2010SSRSM6

With the 2.8" pulley you should be way the hell up there in boost. You have got to be getting serious belt slippage or your cam is not allowing it to build boost. How much belt dust are you getting?

Have you upgraded your pulley system to an 8 rib or are you still running the 6 rib system? There is an IW 8 rib setup in the members FI for sale section that should help you out.

I'm not getting any belt dust noticeable. Of course I have never specifically looked for it.

Still running the 6 rib system. I think the cog drive is the best way to guarantee it's handled without guessing. Or no?

Originally Posted by stieger

Ted posted this awhile back. I know it's not really related, but it does answer your question about belt slippage and why tensioners are so important.

Holy shit. That looks cool. LOL

Is that the super tensioner I'm hearing about? If so I'm thinking I may be underestimating it. Effectiveness AND cost.

Originally Posted by jrpxxii

This might help some of you trying to figure out what the psi should be with pulley swap:

The stock boost for any Magnacharger TVS 2300 Supercharger Kit installed upon any 2010 - 2012 Camaro 6.2L V8 with a 3.80" Magnacharger Pulley installed on it is only 6 psi at wide open throttle.

- 3.60" pulley: expect 2.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 8.0 psi
- 3.40" pulley: expect 4.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 10.0 psi
- 3.20" pulley: expect 6.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 12.0 psi
- 3.10" pulley: expect 7.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 13.0 psi
- 3.00" pulley: expect 8.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 14.0 psi
- 2.90" pulley: expect 9.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 15.0 psi
- 2.80" pulley: expect 10.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 16.0 psi
- 2.70" pulley: expect 11.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 17.0 psi

PLEASE NOTE: If running Long-Tube Headers, you will lose 2 PSI of Boost and to gain that back, choose a pulley 2 sizes smaller!

WARNING: The only way to install the 2.70" Pulley is to have the Jackshaft Housing machined down for it to fit properly. Some Jackshaft Housing Castings are made differently in sizes and do vary, as to what the smallest pulley you can use without maching. The smallest size we recommend is 2.80", without any machining performed on the jackshaft housing casting area.

Yup. I've seen this before. And I'm WAY contradicting those numbers. Even with long tubes and a cam.

Originally Posted by Warhorse

The slippage may not be just from the small front pulley or rear drive.

I for one found (after substantial testing) my slippage was from not having sufficient crank wrap.
Even though I have a 10-14 rib conversion, an additional pulley was required between the belt tensioner and the overdrive crank pulley to eliminate all slippage. Your standard 6rib may be more capable than most think with this addition.

Wouldn't a supertensioner take car of that?

[victoryred1ss]

First of all get an OD setup for the rear belt and put the stock pulley on the front. Then if you want more boost pulley down in front and buy a super tensioner from Ted.

Mine started slipping with just the 3.4 and stock rear pulleys. Having the OD setup on the rear with the 3.8 up front is equivilent to 3.25" on the front according to OLD MOTORHEAD. (hopefully that wasnt too confusing)

[Turbo99]

PQ don't take this wrong , I know your trying to learn, but you are asking the same questions over and over and not understanding what people are saying. You really should do some simple reading or even go out and study your car and see where the belt wraps the S/C pulley and the crank pulley and see where the tensioner is located and get a general understanding of how the system works.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by victoryred1ss

First of all get an OD setup for the rear belt and put the stock pulley on the front. Then if you want more boost pulley down in front and buy a super tensioner from Ted.

Mine started slipping with just the 3.4 and stock rear pulleys. Having the OD setup on the rear with the 3.8 up front is equivilent to 3.25" on the front according to OLD MOTORHEAD. (hopefully that wasnt too confusing)

Nope I got it.

Originally Posted by Turbo99

PQ don't take this wrong , I know your trying to learn, but you are asking the same questions over and over and not understanding what people are saying. You really should do some simple reading or even go out and study your car and see where the belt wraps the S/C pulley and the crank pulley and see where the tensioner is located and get a general understanding of how the system works.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the info you guys give me. Other than the cam I have installed everything on the car. I understand what you guys are saying, I just want to understand the 'Whys' as much as the 'Whats'. Or maybe better put the differences of the one why as apposed to the other.

I follow what you guys are saying but in order to know exactly what I need for my car I want to know what all of this means together.

I've done things to this point by not learning more about why I was doing them and not just WHAT the parts were and I'm sitting here with the wrong set-up on my car.

I believe it makes sense, I want to know WHY it makes sense.

Example.

I get that a super tensioner will take care of belt slippage better than a stock tensioner (and yes, I've had my tensioner off many times, I know what it does) but is the super tensioner the end all be all? Will it stop all belt slippage? Is that all I need?

And if NOT. If there is still a possibility of my belt slipping then I'd rather not spend the money if a cog drive and bigger pulley on front do the trick.

I don't have anyone here in Lower Alabama who knows anything about this stuff that I've found. I don't have the time or money to do a bunch of trial and error part swapping and I don't have the luxury of past experience. This is my first blown car.

So is a supertensioner all I need? If it can't be said with certainty then what CAN be said with certainty? And if nothing can then I learned something that I had not been told yet.

My biggest problem is that I have nobody to just take my car to. I have to do it all. And I have to find out on here. I've already ended up with stuff on my car that isn't working. I'd love to have someone here to take it to and them dyno it and tell me "You need this, this, and this, and that's it." But I don't have that.

I have to rely on you guys. Much of this is learned by trial and error and personal experience. It mostly makes sense but some things are not cut and dry. Like the tiny front pulley.

I know I can be frustrating to try and answer but I guarantee I'm not the only one. I ask questions that some are afraid to ask.

And I still don't know why they sell these tiny pulleys when they don't work. From what I gather, a supertensioner isn't going to guarantee this tiny pulley will work either.

If I'm to understand what you are telling me I should buy the cog set-up AND the supertensioner?

[PQ]

Plus there is the possibility that the belt isn't slipping but there is another factor. I'm working on getting my cam specs for Ted.

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by PQ

Nope I got it.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the info you guys give me. Other than the cam I have installed everything on the car. I understand what you guys are saying, I just want to understand the 'Whys' as much as the 'Whats'. Or maybe better put the differences of the one why as apposed to the other.

I follow what you guys are saying but in order to know exactly what I need for my car I want to know what all of this means together.

I've done things to this point by not learning more about why I was doing them and not just WHAT the parts were and I'm sitting here with the wrong set-up on my car.

I believe it makes sense, I want to know WHY it makes sense.

Example.

I get that a super tensioner will take care of belt slippage better than a stock tensioner (and yes, I've had my tensioner off many times, I know what it does) but is the super tensioner the end all be all? Will it stop all belt slippage? Is that all I need?

And if NOT. If there is still a possibility of my belt slipping then I'd rather not spend the money if a cog drive and bigger pulley on front do the trick.

I don't have anyone here in Lower Alabama who knows anything about this stuff that I've found. I don't have the time or money to do a bunch of trial and error part swapping and I don't have the luxury of past experience. This is my first blown car.

So is a supertensioner all I need? If it can't be said with certainty then what CAN be said with certainty? And if nothing can then I learned something that I had not been told yet.

My biggest problem is that I have nobody to just take my car to. I have to do it all. And I have to find out on here. I've already ended up with stuff on my car that isn't working. I'd love to have someone here to take it to and them dyno it and tell me "You need this, this, and this, and that's it." But I don't have that.

I have to rely on you guys. Much of this is learned by trial and error and personal experience. It mostly makes sense but some things are not cut and dry. Like the tiny front pulley.

I know I can be frustrating to try and answer but I guarantee I'm not the only one. I ask questions that some are afraid to ask.

And I still don't know why they sell these tiny pulleys when they don't work. From what I gather, a supertensioner isn't going to guarantee this tiny pulley will work either.

If I'm to understand what you are telling me I should buy the cog set-up AND the supertensioner?

The super tensioner and the OD rear cog is overkill for what you want. All you need is the OD rear cog and a 3.8 pulley.

[Turbo99]

Originally Posted by PQ

Nope I got it.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the info you guys give me. Other than the cam I have installed everything on the car. I understand what you guys are saying, I just want to understand the 'Whys' as much as the 'Whats'. Or maybe better put the differences of the one why as apposed to the other.

I follow what you guys are saying but in order to know exactly what I need for my car I want to know what all of this means together.

I've done things to this point by not learning more about why I was doing them and not just WHAT the parts were and I'm sitting here with the wrong set-up on my car.

I believe it makes sense, I want to know WHY it makes sense.

Example.

I get that a super tensioner will take care of belt slippage better than a stock tensioner (and yes, I've had my tensioner off many times, I know what it does) but is the super tensioner the end all be all? Will it stop all belt slippage? Is that all I need?

And if NOT. If there is still a possibility of my belt slipping then I'd rather not spend the money if a cog drive and bigger pulley on front do the trick.

I don't have anyone here in Lower Alabama who knows anything about this stuff that I've found. I don't have the time or money to do a bunch of trial and error part swapping and I don't have the luxury of past experience. This is my first blown car.

So is a supertensioner all I need? If it can't be said with certainty then what CAN be said with certainty? And if nothing can then I learned something that I had not been told yet.

My biggest problem is that I have nobody to just take my car to. I have to do it all. And I have to find out on here. I've already ended up with stuff on my car that isn't working. I'd love to have someone here to take it to and them dyno it and tell me "You need this, this, and this, and that's it." But I don't have that.

I have to rely on you guys. Much of this is learned by trial and error and personal experience. It mostly makes sense but some things are not cut and dry. Like the tiny front pulley.

I know I can be frustrating to try and answer but I guarantee I'm not the only one. I ask questions that some are afraid to ask.

And I still don't know why they sell these tiny pulleys when they don't work. From what I gather, a supertensioner isn't going to guarantee this tiny pulley will work either.

If I'm to understand what you are telling me I should buy the cog set-up AND the supertensioner?

This is exactly what I am talking about. You keep asking "will the super tensioner fix belt slip" and " if not I will get the cog drive". Well they have NOTHING at ALL to do with each other or even the same belt or belt tension. The Super tensioner will increase your tension on the belt that runs off of the crank and drives the 3.2 S/C pulley, the COG is on the rear of the S/C and has nothing to do with the slip or tightness of the belt that the super tensioner tightens. Also the super tensioner CANNOT improve crank belt wrap as you asked earlier in a post it will only have better tension that the stock tensioner.

I don't mean to come off as an ass ,even though it may seem like it. But I think you really need to look at the set-up and if you did put on the S/C yourself then all this should be self explanitory and its just down to a decision on what to buy. Nobody is going to tell you anything is the end all to ALL belt slip because I don't think anything is to that point everyone is stll growing through all of this.

In my opinion the Supertensioner works, as it gets tighter with RPM it pulls away from the pulley on the Maggie set-up which lessons your belt wrap. I was looking at some way to put another slide idler pulley in to keep good belt wrap at high RPM with it but just doesn't seem like enough room.

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by Turbo99

This is exactly what I am talking about. You keep asking "will the super tensioner fix belt slip" and " if not I will get the cog drive". Well they have NOTHING at ALL to do with each other or even the same belt or belt tension. The Super tensioner will increase your tension on the belt that runs off of the crank and drives the 3.2 S/C pulley, the COG is on the rear of the S/C and has nothing to do with the slip or tightness of the belt that the super tensioner tightens. Also the super tensioner CANNOT improve crank belt wrap as you asked earlier in a post it will only have better tension that the stock tensioner.

I don't mean to come off as an ass ,even though it may seem like it. But I think you really need to look at the set-up and if you did put on the S/C yourself then all this should be self explanitory and its just down to a decision on what to buy. Nobody is going to tell you anything is the end all to ALL belt slip because I don't think anything is to that point everyone is stll growing through all of this.

In my opinion the Supertensioner works, as it gets tighter with RPM it pulls away from the pulley on the Maggie set-up which lessons your belt wrap. I was looking at some way to put another slide idler pulley in to keep good belt wrap at high RPM with it but just doesn't seem like enough room.

The rear OD cog allows you to run a much bigger pulley while producing the same boost, if use size the pulley correctly. The bigger the pulley the better the belt wrap and thus less slippage. A 3.8 pulley has great belt wrap and the lowest probability of slipping.

[Turbo99]

I know, it just seems like he keeps saying something different every post and getting things mixed up. Maybe I am just not following him. When all of the info has been posted and all the answers given. It seems to just not be getting through.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Turbo99

This is exactly what I am talking about. You keep asking "will the super tensioner fix belt slip" and " if not I will get the cog drive". Well they have NOTHING at ALL to do with each other or even the same belt or belt tension. The Super tensioner will increase your tension on the belt that runs off of the crank and drives the 3.2 S/C pulley, the COG is on the rear of the S/C and has nothing to do with the slip or tightness of the belt that the super tensioner tightens. Also the super tensioner CANNOT improve crank belt wrap as you asked earlier in a post it will only have better tension that the stock tensioner.

I don't mean to come off as an ass ,even though it may seem like it. But I think you really need to look at the set-up and if you did put on the S/C yourself then all this should be self explanitory and its just down to a decision on what to buy. Nobody is going to tell you anything is the end all to ALL belt slip because I don't think anything is to that point everyone is stll growing through all of this.

In my opinion the Supertensioner works, as it gets tighter with RPM it pulls away from the pulley on the Maggie set-up which lessons your belt wrap. I was looking at some way to put another slide idler pulley in to keep good belt wrap at high RPM with it but just doesn't seem like enough room.

No. You're fine. Trust me.

I get how it works. I know where the cog drive goes and how it works. I know what the supertensioner does and where it goes and how it works. I only wanted to confirm that the supertensioner is not the way for me to go because I can not be guaranteed that it will stop all of the slippage.

And the cog drive will take care of it because I'll have much more belt wrap on front and if there were slippage on the rear too, then the cog drive would take care of that as well even though it would be two new pulleys anyway.

Form what I am gathering, the supertensioner is really not in the equation because a 2.8" pulley is STILL too small for a 6 rib stock belt.

I guess the confusion is that the supertensioner is still in the conversation?

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by PQ

No. You're fine. Trust me.

I get how it works. I know where the cog drive goes and how it works. I know what the supertensioner does and where it goes and how it works. I only wanted to confirm that the supertensioner is not the way for me to go because I can not be guaranteed that it will stop all of the slippage.

And the cog drive will take care of it because I'll have much more belt wrap on front and if there were slippage on the rear too, then the cog drive would take care of that as well even though it would be two new pulleys anyway.

Form what I am gathering, the supertensioner is really not in the equation because a 2.8" pulley is STILL too small for a 6 rib stock belt.

I guess the confusion is that the supertensioner is still in the conversation?

I agree with you saying even with the super tensioner the 2.8 is so small is still may slip. A 2.8 should never be on your car! We make over 17 psi with a 3.2.

[victoryred1ss]

You shouldnt need the supertensioner if you use the 3.8" front pulley, any thing smaller than 3.8 up front will need the supertensioner in my opinion.