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Old 04-08-2022, 06:27 AM   #15
wnta1ss

 
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Here's another centrifugal supercharger dyno sheet for ya, arpad_m. This member of the forum said that he had e85 plus methanol injection with an ECS/Paxton 1500 kit on a stock motor.


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Old 04-08-2022, 07:29 AM   #16
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I put a procharger on a year ago. Never had a PD though... Ive got more low end torque on the street than my tires can handle. Power ramps smoothly with rpm, not like a turbo. PDs will make more boost down low, but PC shines at extremely high RPM. For a street driven vehicle i would prob go with a PD. I only went with Procharger because all the PDs were backordered for many months.

With that said... launching as hard as i could at the track i could only manage a 1.85 60 ft time. Which is one reason i put in a 3k stall converter. Havent been able to bet back to retest yet. Im sure a PD does much better without a stall conv.

Anyway.... for the street, the PC makes plenty of power. Mine is very quiet with the helical gearset. Actually sounds pretty good. Its got a turbo-like whine to it. Ive heard the straightcut gears sound like a box of rocks though. Ive got my tune set up to shift close to 7k to take better advantage of the centri characteristics hign rpm. Not sure if this is typical of PD setups. Could prob get good power w/o having to wrap it out so far.
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Old 04-08-2022, 07:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjperformance View Post
I put a procharger on a year ago. Never had a PD though... Ive got more low end torque on the street than my tires can handle. Power ramps smoothly with rpm, not like a turbo. PDs will make more boost down low, but PC shines at extremely high RPM. For a street driven vehicle i would prob go with a PD. I only went with Procharger because all the PDs were backordered for many months.

With that said... launching as hard as i could at the track i could only manage a 1.85 60 ft time. Which is one reason i put in a 3k stall converter. Havent been able to bet back to retest yet. Im sure a PD does much better without a stall conv.

Anyway.... for the street, the PC makes plenty of power. Mine is very quiet with the helical gearset. Actually sounds pretty good. Its got a turbo-like whine to it. Ive heard the straightcut gears sound like a box of rocks though. Ive got my tune set up to shift close to 7k to take better advantage of the centri characteristics hign rpm. Not sure if this is typical of PD setups. Could prob get good power w/o having to wrap it out so far.
Thanks for that info, I've seen the same with back ordered SCs as well. So you ran a 11.5 with a PC right? That 305/30 doesn't hook well, I am trying out 305/35 and grip seems better, will find out when I hit the track end of this month.
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Old 04-08-2022, 09:45 AM   #18
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I have driven/ridden in and tuned both setups(PD/Centri) on a 6th gen. Both work well when setup and tuned correctly. I prefer PD on this platform because it's a cleaner install, more OEM looking, and imo offers better driveability. Both will spin street tires easily...if you don't run at least a Nitto 555r2 then it's almost a waste to even install a supercharger. Hell Na mild bolt-on E85 car will destroy street tires.
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Old 04-08-2022, 10:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyZ83 View Post
What do you guys prefer? Super charger or pro charger? It’s a daily driver and currently has lt2 intake (would have to be replaced w SC) , rotofab cold air, headers and flex fuel tuned for e85. I like how it can be a daily drive and drive close to a stock car when I’m not getting on it.
I’ve popped the hood on a pro charged camaro and it would super loud so kind of leaning towards super charger but not 100% convinced. It’s duty is I do drive it daily and yes I do tend to mash the pedal daily as well and like how it currently drives. That’s partially why I’m leaning towards this instead of heads / cam route.
Currently around 480hp, looking to get closer to 600hp
I would say HCI on the auto and you'd be good as a daily.
Second route would be a PCSC
Last option would be SC, instead of SC on SS I'd get a ZL1. But there is a 2650 for sale RN for like 1K less than it'd cost you initially.
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Old 04-08-2022, 02:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnta1ss View Post
Here's another centrifugal supercharger dyno sheet for ya, arpad_m. This member of the forum said that he had e85 plus methanol injection with an ECS/Paxton 1500 kit on a stock motor.
Thanks for these posts. I'm always happy to be educated by masters like yourself or King or Josh or Matt, so please allow me one more question (since, again, I never drove a Camaro with a centrifugal SC).

If you look at these dyno graphs, one can observe very significant torque increases between ~3k and ~6k rpm. Even though it's not a "step function" but smooth growth, the tires sure have a limit, right? We can't just keep increasing torque as rpms climb and expect the tires to just keep sticking. Now, if the limit is whatever torque we see at, say, 5k rpm, it means the rear will suddenly break out at around 5k, in every gear, right?

Not saying this cannot be managed, of course, all I'm saying this is not my preference and it doesn't happen with a PD. It's harder to get it to hook, but once it has, torque increase is typically negligible and you can count on traction throughout the rev range.
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Old 04-08-2022, 06:20 PM   #21
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anybody with a fi car still messing around on street tires gets what they deserve.

if power is your goal, you can't go wrong with pd or centri. crutching and catering to a stock short block is what sucks with fi. the average person is in for a bad time.

guys like king make it look easy with years (20+? i think i remember you from the old tech days) of car and tuning things. the guys with $10k in their already rebuilt short block and fuel system are in the same boat in that regard.

normal guys that want to floor it with a blower car are going to end up on 6 lb with 12* running door to door with bolt on cars and still be one cold day away from ringland departure.
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Old 04-08-2022, 06:58 PM   #22
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For what it’s worth: I’ve had both and I find the procharger to be more fun. Both have their advantages and opinions will vary on preference. At the end of the day…both are a blast.
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Old 04-08-2022, 07:11 PM   #23
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I ain't no guru, never have had a PD car, but my last Camaro (2010 RS, direct injection, VVT, high compression V6) rode and drove great with a Procharger- and made an additional 130hp to the rear wheels while still being able to negotiate 6-8" of snow on "summer only- do not operate in snow" Michelin SS's with a 6 speed stick and 3.73 rear gears (3.45 stock).

Loved that car! Should've kept it, but Chevy had to make this damn Alpha chassis car so much better that it made the old Holden Commodore (Australia) chasis look and feel as antiquated as it is.

Anyway, +1 for a procharger car, you can live with, love it, and it won't blow up the first time you take it out of town, IMHO of course!
BTW- with helical cut gears a procharger is essentially silent and the greater surface area actually makes them stronger than straight cut. More teeth = longer life, stronger and more load carrying capabilities.
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Old 04-09-2022, 06:04 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjperformance View Post
I put a procharger on a year ago. Never had a PD though... Ive got more low end torque on the street than my tires can handle. Power ramps smoothly with rpm, not like a turbo. PDs will make more boost down low, but PC shines at extremely high RPM. For a street driven vehicle i would prob go with a PD. I only went with Procharger because all the PDs were backordered for many months.

With that said... launching as hard as i could at the track i could only manage a 1.85 60 ft time. Which is one reason i put in a 3k stall converter. Havent been able to bet back to retest yet. Im sure a PD does much better without a stall conv.
Comment on your 1.85 short time, a 200TW street tire is not good enough to know what your blower can actually do on the dragstrip. ALL types of blowers on this car really need a soft-compound tire like a drag radial to do their best on the dragstrip.

As far as base blower kits on drag radials, yes, agree that the PD style should get a quicker short time on the stock torque converter than a centrifugal. BUT the real difference there is nowhere near what some guys say. My own A8 SS with base Paxton kit, no methanol injection, on stock torque converter, went 1.63 short time in summer heat. Recall that one of the members with a PD that was just above the base config ran like 1.57 on slicks in cooler temps. So it seems that the real difference between them is less than a tenth, not the 3 tenths that guys on this forum have said. Note how I'm focusing on base kit (or close in this PD car's case), as adding more power to either one should give quicker 60, if traction allows.
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Old 04-25-2022, 12:20 PM   #25
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To update this thread, I found a LT4 blower with everything pulled from a ZL1, all bolts, lt4 injectors, HPFP, pulley, water pump, valley plate, spacers and everything needed for a hell of a price that I couldn't pass up. It has an 12lb pulley but I'll be going back to stock 8lb pulley Looking at getting an LS3 crank seal, for fuel I'm going to find the right tuner to discuss my goal with but from what I've gathered, I should be ok running e50-60. SBE

I'm running TSP headers currently and now looking at replacing the stock npp muffler setup for better flow to keep temps down and afm delete for the y pipe. At least that's my novice level thinking. Found AWE axleback wNPP that looks reasonable

Wanting to run it on the conservative side of things instead of going for most power possible. I've seen people run JMS boosters for fuel, should I consider this as well? Thanks for the input so far. Kinglt1 answered a good amount of my questions and gave lots of good insight so far too so thanks to him.

I'm taking my time to install it and planning the move accordingly.
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Old 04-25-2022, 02:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyZ83 View Post
To update this thread, I found a LT4 blower with everything pulled from a ZL1, all bolts, lt4 injectors, HPFP, pulley, water pump, valley plate, spacers and everything needed for a hell of a price that I couldn't pass up. It has an 12lb pulley but I'll be going back to stock 8lb pulley Looking at getting an LS3 crank seal, for fuel I'm going to find the right tuner to discuss my goal with but from what I've gathered, I should be ok running e50-60. SBE

I'm running TSP headers currently and now looking at replacing the stock npp muffler setup for better flow to keep temps down and afm delete for the y pipe. At least that's my novice level thinking. Found AWE axleback wNPP that looks reasonable

Wanting to run it on the conservative side of things instead of going for most power possible. I've seen people run JMS boosters for fuel, should I consider this as well? Thanks for the input so far. Kinglt1 answered a good amount of my questions and gave lots of good insight so far too so thanks to him.

I'm taking my time to install it and planning the move accordingly.
The JMS voltage pump booster is recommended on any forced induction LT1. I see you live in Texas, not sure how you use your SS, just keep in mind that the LT4 blowers tend to heat soak in the summer heat. They will see high IATs and pull timing on back to back pulls or laps. Otherwise, should be a ton of fun and has a clean oem look under the hood.
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Old 04-25-2022, 02:50 PM   #27
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If I run a JMS booster, that will allow me to keep the same SS fuel pump in the tank correct? Yeah I'm going to have a sleeper looking SS that packs a bite to a unsuspecting victim lol I'm excited to get the build moving forward

It's a daily driver for me and yes it gets hot in Houston for sure, it takes me to work and I do a couple digs, rolls a week. Not much else just having some fun when time presents itself, I'm near an area where people always have their weekend cars out too
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Old 04-25-2022, 06:36 PM   #28
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no sir you need a lt4 tank pump and jms. or tap tank for aux setup.
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