[laynlo15]

I'm not worried about it, if the motor breaks I'll replace it with more cubes and better parts. I still feel like I might be able to get warranty on the tranny and rear diff since they've had trouble with both. Motor, NA its all mine. Its not the first time or the last that I'll mod a new car beyond the warranty. Its all good and with 93 octane I'm at about that 550 but with Meth and VP109 I'm probably at the 600-610. I'm only planning on going big pump just so I can run a smaller pulley (85mm).

[Eyefixstuff]

I love all the input guys. Thanks for all the insight. I'm definitely still supercharging the car, I was just curious if there were any regrets from those that have already done it.

Great community here by the way. I love it.

[AxiomVerge]

For me it is because this is our 2nd car and I can afford to lose it if the engine explodes or whatever. But it was only in the last couple of years (I'm 40) that I could afford that. My previous cars only got minor mods like shifters, pedals, etc.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

[brettman]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

I love all the input guys. Thanks for all the insight. I'm definitely still supercharging the car, I was just curious if there were any regrets from those that have already done it.

Great community here by the way. I love it.

NO regrets here Bro, and still building...LOL

[LibertyHill]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

And here I am with 6k asking the question!

Were you just that confident in the mods / tuning that you were doing? Or maybe you're just filthy rich and don't care 🤔

I felt a little safer starting around 6K knowing the motor had made it past the "defect" stage.

Originally Posted by jessrayo

My dealer fixed a leaking weld on the radiator (replaced) under warranty, just don't try the powertrain after mods. If you go over 600 wheel hp the pistons/rings could fail. It seems that below this is safe from the general consensus on the forums. I can't say for sure because I was running 650whp when mine broke. I will tell you I got about 7000 miles at 650whp before it broke. I was driving it at a road course when it let go...

What was that like? How catastrophic was the damage? What pistons did you install?

Originally Posted by 1968ss350

I collapsed the #7 intake lifter. After research I discovered there is a Technical Service Bulletin on this subject. GM would not perform the repair because of the supercharger being on the car. The supercharger in NO way caused a lifter to fail. This is a common problem, at least common enough for GM to release a service bulletin referring to every 6.2liter direct injection motor. Not a hard fix but an unnecessary expense for sure....

What were the symptoms of this failure? Did you repair it yourself?

Needless to say I still worry about this but to a slightly lesser degree that I did at first...

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by LibertyHill

What was that like? How catastrophic was the damage? What pistons did you install?



...

It felt a little weak coming off the corner, looked down had a check engine light did a moderate cool down lap and pitted. The track master was waiting at the pit for me and said I was smoking a little the last lap. Checked the code and it was one cylinder misfire. Front oil seal was leaking and there was oil on the front of the engine. I drove it onto the rollback but it was definitely leaking oil out the front seal.

My car was number 10 in line at ADM performance. He has not got the engine out yet but he says he has seen a couple break either a ringland or piston and it always blows the front seal..... It felt like I only had 570 hp instead of 650.... if it wasn't leaking oil it ran pretty good on 7 cylinders. I'll post an update when it comes back together. I'm going to lower compression ratio, put in a forged bottom, get a cam with more fuel lobe and expect to make 800 whp on pump gas. I have plenty of turbocharger on this car.

[jrs580]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

So I've ordered my procharger. As a mechanic of 20 year I typically do all my own work anyways. But obviously there could be things where I just would prefer to use warranty coverage. So I guess this is a two part question.

1. What made up your mind that it was okay to pull the trigger.

2. Does this completely void all warranty on the car or just power train?

I was nervous but I wanted the power of a supercharger. I drove it for a bit, then made up my mind to make it a fast car, so that justified my decision because if something broke, I would want to replace it with something better, making the warranty useless in terms of my goals.

I've also done tons of research to get to my power level as safe as possible, it costs extra but it's a safety buffer...i.e. Just the right amount of sticky tires so i sont over do the torque on the drivetrain, fuel pump voltage booster to alleviate fuel pressure momentary drops, interchiller to reduce intake air temp which dramatically lowers knock potential...

[LibertyHill]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

I'm going to lower compression ratio, put in a forged bottom, get a cam with more fuel lobe and expect to make 800 whp on pump gas. I have plenty of turbocharger on this car.

Awesome keep us posted!

[1968ss350]

What were the symptoms of this failure? Did you repair it yourself?

Needless to say I still worry about this but to a slightly lesser degree that I did at first...[/QUOTE]

High speed pull on the freeway and the car started bucking. I immediately let off and shifted to 6th gear and heard a ticking coming from the motor. I pulled in to work, I work at a Toyota dealer, and popped the hood. The noise was definitely top end and i knew it was coming from cylinder 5 or 7. I suspected a bent push rod or collapsed lifter. Engine actually ran pretty good just a very very loud ticking sound... pretty recognizable valvetrain sound. I repaired it myself yes

[DenverTaco07]

The "Safe" HP number - this is uncorrected HP numbers right? I mean I'm at 6000 feet running corrected 620 WHP, that's corrected at 1.3 so actual is only 475-ish.

I assume we have to deal in "real" to the ground numbers here when talking about a safe HP number?

[LibertyHill]

Originally Posted by 1968ss350

High speed pull on the freeway and the car started bucking. I immediately let off and shifted to 6th gear and heard a ticking coming from the motor. I pulled in to work, I work at a Toyota dealer, and popped the hood. The noise was definitely top end and i knew it was coming from cylinder 5 or 7. I suspected a bent push rod or collapsed lifter. Engine actually ran pretty good just a very very loud ticking sound... pretty recognizable valvetrain sound. I repaired it myself yes

DOD delete or just replace one lifter?

[1968ss350]

Originally Posted by LibertyHill

DOD delete or just replace one lifter?

I did not remove the AFM lifters. I replaced all four AFM lifters on the left bank. I also replaced the Lifter Oil Manifold per the GM TSB. If i run into another issue I will remove this system and cam the car. I believe the stock cam variable valve timing won't work without the oil manifold??

[LibertyHill]

Originally Posted by 1968ss350

I did not remove the AFM lifters. I replaced all four AFM lifters on the left bank. I also replaced the Lifter Oil Manifold per the GM TSB. If i run into another issue I will remove this system and cam the car. I believe the stock cam variable valve timing won't work without the oil manifold??

Just curious, not sure myself. Still planning for my next upgrade stage which seems like it may be nearly as expensive as this last one, but will definitely include AFM/DOD delete, cam, pistons, high-side.

[Joe's_cool_1le]

Originally Posted by 1968ss350

I did not remove the AFM lifters. I replaced all four AFM lifters on the left bank. I also replaced the Lifter Oil Manifold per the GM TSB. If i run into another issue I will remove this system and cam the car. I believe the stock cam variable valve timing won't work without the oil manifold??

Just curious. How hard was it to fix? About how long did it take you?