New P1X dyno numbers 681/585rw. - Page 2

PRAY · 03-16-2018, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parish8

I am now runing the Cunningham rods and pistons. I did nothing but a light hone. I weighed the stock vs forged set up and it was identical on my scale but my scale only went down to 4 gram increments. So far so good up 6000rpm and 5 psi. No smoke or funny noises.

Does that car have headers? Cats? Stock open npp?

Car has 2" Kooks with gutted cats and a cat back. Not sure which one.

PRAY · 03-16-2018, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

We had it all balanced just because I wanted to be absolutely sure and my shop wasn't going to charge me anything for it. They weighed out perfectly to stock so I am sure it would have been fine. I forgot they do drop them a full compression point but we wanted that anyways since ours will be a maxed out all in build that will also run on pump gas on occasion.

That is my concern right now, losing a point of SCR and then an extra point of DCR with the cam. Dropping 2 points of compression is a lot on a street car. This baby blower isn't going to make up for that. An F1 may be in the future but again, this is a daily street car. I got some thinking to do. Thanks for the info guys.

ZNix · 03-16-2018, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRAY

On the stock fuel system the single 10 nozzle was about wide open. We still had some room. The LT4 system was right there. At 12.2-3 AFR it held.

Add a second 10-15gph nozzle. Run that wide open. 2 15gph nozzles is nice as well.

Dysan911 · 03-17-2018, 09:10 AM

Cunningham Motorsports mentioned that drop in kit can be done with the motor still in the car? I didn't know that was possible. Wow.

Quote:

This is a complete drop-in assembly that can be installed while the engine is still in the car!

aka Reckless · 03-17-2018, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRAY

Do you guys offer a drop in piston/rod combo? Is there even such a thing? How far do you think you can push just pistons on the stock rods?

We have our own drop in pistons. If we need rods for a certain power level the customer usually just elects to go with a new build.

I forgot to mention I am using Alky Control dual nozzle setup. LT4 injectors and high side....stock in tank pump.

PRAY · 03-17-2018, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZNix

Add a second 10-15gph nozzle. Run that wide open. 2 15gph nozzles is nice as well.

That would flood the car out. The single 10 nozzle was more than enough. I would much rather have a small nozzle turned up then large ones barely working. I don't like leaning the car out to run meth. Not my style.

ZNix · 03-20-2018, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRAY

That would flood the car out. The single 10 nozzle was more than enough. I would much rather have a small nozzle turned up then large ones barely working. I don't like leaning the car out to run meth. Not my style.

That's fine. Just seems to be a lot of fuel and octane being left on the table. And that is something we needs gobs of with FI. I've always ran my meth wide open and pulled fuel for it. A wise GN tuner once told me to do that, and I've never had an issue.

boostednut · 03-20-2018, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Cunningham Motorsports mentioned that drop in kit can be done with the motor still in the car? I didn't know that was possible. Wow.

Yeah technically all you need is a flex ball hone to de-glaze the cylinders which anyone could do if they watch a few videos. My question is how are you supposed to remove the oil squirters without pulling the crank? I'd love to know. I also wonder if you could just get away with re using the oem rings after gapping them correctly.

boostednut · 03-20-2018, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZNix

That's fine. Just seems to be a lot of fuel and octane being left on the table. And that is something we needs gobs of with FI. I've always ran my meth wide open and pulled fuel for it. A wise GN tuner once told me to do that, and I've never had an issue.

The more meth you have the more oxygenated fuel you run, the more power. Beyond just detonation. Then with like a turbo car and a good ecu, you can have fail safe throw rich setup/pull timing if it fails.

PRAY · 03-20-2018, 04:22 AM

I understand the theory and agree that meth will make more power. I am honestly struggling with the fail safes in the stock ECM. You can use IAT temps but at a certain point that will fail in my area due to ambient differences. There is no way that I can see using AFR since this ECM doesn't recognize AFR. So someone educated me on what else can be done. I may simply be to busy to think through it. Even with a fail safe that pulls timing you will still be extremely lean under WOT if the meth fails. I understand it will only be till you figure it out but I have seen a lot of people push through a lot of warning signs in the heat of things. So, till I have a better grasp on that portion of things I won't be relying on a secondary fuel source that can fail with a customers motor. Especially a stock motor.

PRAY · 03-20-2018, 04:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boostednut

Yeah technically all you need is a flex ball hone to de-glaze the cylinders which anyone could do if they watch a few videos. My question is how are you supposed to remove the oil squirters without pulling the crank? I'd love to know. I also wonder if you could just get away with re using the oem rings after gapping them correctly.

My real question here is, what are we doing about the stock TTY rod bolts? Are guys replacing them with stockers? ARP doesn't make any yet that I know of. I can only assume that guys are just re-torqueing them.

laynlo15 · 03-20-2018, 05:48 AM

I'm running 50/50 mix of M1 Meth and Water. We were on the dyno for a bunch of pulls in the last few weeks. We even ran the car without meth and made way more torque to 4000 rpm, turn the Meth back on and lost 60 rwt at 4000 rpm. I tried a bunch of different pulls with different adjustment. Mine comes on with when it sees boost, the problem is with PD its under boost when you hit the throttle so it start spraying. Mine made 699 with setting at 4 lbs of boost and less meth up top. I wish mine could be set at rpm instead off boost level.

KingLT1 · 03-20-2018, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRAY

My real question here is, what are we doing about the stock TTY rod bolts? Are guys replacing them with stockers? ARP doesn't make any yet that I know of. I can only assume that guys are just re-torqueing them.

I can not imagine tty bolts being reused...If I am not mistaken, they are done after one use because they are stretched.

boostednut · 03-20-2018, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRAY

My real question here is, what are we doing about the stock TTY rod bolts? Are guys replacing them with stockers? ARP doesn't make any yet that I know of. I can only assume that guys are just re-torqueing them.

YIKES, please please don't tell me people are re-using tty bolts

Coolant and oil slushies for everyone when they start doing that.

Surely ARP can make studs for the lt1 custom order no problem right? These motors probably don't need l19, so I imagine they wouldn't cost that much either...

Can you use lt4 hardware here? Or HG?

03-20-2018, 04:22 AM	#24
PRAY Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Sanford NC Posts: 2,766	I understand the theory and agree that meth will make more power. I am honestly struggling with the fail safes in the stock ECM. You can use IAT temps but at a certain point that will fail in my area due to ambient differences. There is no way that I can see using AFR since this ECM doesn't recognize AFR. So someone educated me on what else can be done. I may simply be to busy to think through it. Even with a fail safe that pulls timing you will still be extremely lean under WOT if the meth fails. I understand it will only be till you figure it out but I have seen a lot of people push through a lot of warning signs in the heat of things. So, till I have a better grasp on that portion of things I won't be relying on a secondary fuel source that can fail with a customers motor. Especially a stock motor. __________________ 2016 2SS. H/C SBE 1.37 60ft, 6.36@109.49, 9.97@136+. Nuff Said.

03-20-2018, 05:48 AM	#26
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,862	I'm running 50/50 mix of M1 Meth and Water. We were on the dyno for a bunch of pulls in the last few weeks. We even ran the car without meth and made way more torque to 4000 rpm, turn the Meth back on and lost 60 rwt at 4000 rpm. I tried a bunch of different pulls with different adjustment. Mine comes on with when it sees boost, the problem is with PD its under boost when you hit the throttle so it start spraying. Mine made 699 with setting at 4 lbs of boost and less meth up top. I wish mine could be set at rpm instead off boost level. __________________ 2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff

User Name		Remember Me?
Password