[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I wouldn’t write the port “issue” off just yet. So you added port and had no slip…but the more power you make the more you’re relying on the port. So if the torque mapping is off, it will get worse as you make more power. If/when I add port my local tuner was insistent I put it on the dyno in hopes of making reported torque match up to actual. Just my 2 cents of course. I don’t believe in coincidences.

Understood. Torque was added via the EQ Torque Coeff table per Mike's advice. But what i didnt do was account for the pulley down.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Understood. Torque was added via the EQ Torque Coeff table per Mike's advice. But what i didnt do was account for the pulley down.

Yeah I’m sure Mike is on the right track as usual…but was it enough is my question.

I need you and Rad to get this all figured out for me before I buy it.

[toohighpsi]

Zoom in on the narrow band O2s at the point of the knock (change the scale in the plot), they can be an indicator to let you know if the knock is real or not.
What are your knock sensor settings? I like to leave them close to stock when running full E85 as you have lots of octane there - especially on an LT1.

Do a compression check, I've always been able to tell if you have a broken one with compression check.

I will say that I did blow the front seal out of the old Magnuson Camaro SS pretty early on, fortunately it didn't hurt anything - wasn't totally sure until we pulled it apart to upgrade to a 416, but when it came apart - sure enough all the pistons were still good. SO - blowing out a seal is likely accompanied with a piston problem on an LT1, but fortunately its not a guarantee of a broken piston.

Your data looks OK to me, I probably wouldn't expect a problem at the numbers you're showing there.

[cjperformance]

If the mechanicals check out, and i get the seal fixed, then maybe ill get it down to CBI for a dyno tune.

Im secretly hoping its blown so i have an excuse to do upgrades Ok not really, but I'd like to run some 9s someday.

I think the 1 for 1 port swap was VERY straightforward. Its basically all math. If i screwed up anything, its with the pulley down.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by toohighpsi

Zoom in on the narrow band O2s at the point of the knock (change the scale in the plot), they can be an indicator to let you know if the knock is real or not.
What are your knock sensor settings? I like to leave them close to stock when running full E85 as you have lots of octane there - especially on an LT1.

Do a compression check, I've always been able to tell if you have a broken one with compression check.

I will say that I did blow the front seal out of the old Magnuson Camaro SS pretty early on, fortunately it didn't hurt anything - wasn't totally sure until we pulled it apart to upgrade to a 416, but when it came apart - sure enough all the pistons were still good. SO - blowing out a seal is likely accompanied with a piston problem on an LT1, but fortunately its not a guarantee of a broken piston.

Your data looks OK to me, I probably wouldn't expect a problem at the numbers you're showing there.

Thanks Mike. I can take a look at that tomorrow and post up some more data on that.

[cjperformance]

6 of 8 plugs out... number 7 lookin sus.

Def some oil on the threads.

2 more plugs to go then compression time.

[radz28]

Finger's crossed for you buddy.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Yeah I’m sure Mike is on the right track as usual…but was it enough is my question.

I need you and Rad to get this all figured out for me before I buy it.

Your tuner won't have anything to worry about. I would have been done a while ago if I stuck with the traditional method, but because I'm difficult - I didn't go that route. I'm close, though, and just trying to get the throttle transitions figured out. That's the last part of the puzzle I think. I still have MAF polishing on the REFLEX, but my WOT numbers are on the rich side, up top, so I figured I'd come back to the tough part, which is this transitional stuff.

Your guys wouldn't have ANY trouble doing this though. For the record: I'm not having ANY trouble with the REFLEX or AND of the PORT hardware. This is all my ineptitude and stubborn'ness, LOL.

[cjperformance]

1 and 7 at 250 psi. On to the others i guess.

[radz28]

At least #7 doesn't look like it's far out yet.

[cjperformance]

Ok, so all cyls are 250 psi +/- 5 psi except #6 which was at 260.

Only suspect thing is #7, which has some "fluid" on the spark plug and darker grey coloring on the ceramic as shown in the pic in my earlier post. All other spark plugs (except #7) look almost identical to the other 3 shown in that pic.

The fluid on the plug seems thinner than oil, but doesn't smell like fuel. May have a little blow by there... not sure. My first thought was maybe a weak coil, something causing an intermittent misfire, or maybe a bad/dirty injector and that it was fuel not oil. But the sniff test says it isn't fuel.

I only did a compression test today. I'll do a leakdown on the driver side cyls in the next few days, just to see if I can figure out what's going on with #7. I wouldn't even worry too much about it except the other 7 plugs were just so identical in color... so SOMETHING may be up with #7, but compression checks out ok.

[laynlo15]

If you have that much compression in all cylinders your probably ok, those are the highest cylinder pressures I've heard of, mine were all in the low 200s except 1 that had none and 8 that had 65 psi, I could have those reversed since its been a few years since I broke the first Lt1. Number 7 may have been a little richer then the others so may be some additional fuel on the plug. I don't think your going to need those Mahle Forges pistons I have. Maybe I can talk Mike into a Live tuning school for tuners, amateurs and professionals that are tuning the ECU and the Reflex.

[cjperformance]

What do you guys recommend for a damper puller? Will I need something specific, or will any 3-jaw work?

I've seen some references to the OTC 6667 for puller...

What about an install tool? I have an install tool with needle bearings, but it's for an old-school SBC. Not sure I have the right thread adapters... Plus I have to find it first. Been 20 years since I used it probably :( . Any recommendations for an install tool?

[toohighpsi]

I think I have this one - not necessarily a good one as the pushrod bowed the first time that I used it, but have pulled the damper from our Z06 and Camaro a few time so far.
If I was a shop I'd invest more in a better one - but if you only plan to use it once or twice...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like it's currently out of stock, but there are similar ones like

https://www.amazon.com/MOSTPLUS-Harm...8YRBQ8BZ&psc=1

Don't think I used an installer, just the old bolt with some moly on the install the balancer, then swapped to a new bolt and torqued it (with a big electric impact)