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Old 05-04-2017, 03:59 PM   #225
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Originally Posted by MR 45TH View Post
I also have the Aeroforce. Very nice gauge. Just keep in mind you will need a 2bar maf adapter to read boost.
Sweet! Im leaning towards getting that set up. Thanks for the info
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Old 05-04-2017, 04:01 PM   #226
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Originally Posted by Chevy71 View Post
I use the AEM gauge for my AFR, very reliable and has the updated Bosch sensor which is best in the industry. I choose HP Tuner's nGauge over the Aeroforce. It's a bigger gauge and has some options that I like better, plus it's a product of HP Tuners and you can't go wrong there. Pictures of my gauges are in this thread.
Sorry! I do remember you posting it now . Hmm, Its going to be tough to choose between the 2. Im going to do more research now
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Old 05-04-2017, 04:02 PM   #227
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Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
Each tuner has his or her own preference and I respect that.

.86 is 12.65 AFR.

That is a lot leaner than I would like to see and explains why you could stretch the fuel so far with your set up.

On the dyno .85 is where they seem to make the most power but we run them at .78-.80 for cooling on pump gas especially on long pulls past 1/8 mile.

I have no trouble running them at .85 on Race Gas.

You have a very nice set up Congrats, and enjoy.
I'm sorry, I miss spoke on my Lambda value. I know we spoke about making sure the injector never exceeded 6ms, and we didn't see any major drop in fuel psi both high and low. High side never dropped, low side dropped 2psi, and everything fuel related stayed well within safe spec. I don't have the graphs he gave me with me here at the office, so I asked him what my spec was to ensure I gave a straight answer. See below
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Old 05-04-2017, 04:05 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by DevBlackSS View Post
Sorry! I do remember you posting it now . Hmm, Its going to be tough to choose between the 2. Im going to do more research now
I looked at and played with both options. I don't think either are bad, but to me the nGauge was much better. Felt better, reacted faster, looked more advanced, and it did a little more than Aeroforce. The looks of the Aeroforce can be customized more with the custom faceplates and color options, but the screen portion itself can not. It also looks a little more dated to me. Either way, both gauges will do exactly what you want and do it well.
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Old 05-04-2017, 04:16 PM   #229
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Originally Posted by Chevy71 View Post
I looked at and played with both options. I don't think either are bad, but to me the nGauge was much better. Felt better, reacted faster, looked more advanced, and it did a little more than Aeroforce. The looks of the Aeroforce can be customized more with the custom faceplates and color options, but the screen portion itself can not. It also looks a little more dated to me. Either way, both gauges will do exactly what you want and do it well.
Its touch screen! It looks pretty advanced though lol. Does look sweet in use though. Im on the fence lol
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Old 05-05-2017, 08:58 PM   #230
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Nothing to say on my fuel holding up past the bench markmfuel line thatbthis engine absolutely can't surpass and you have to change fuel components to the slightly larger LT4 stuff at a minimum?
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:27 AM   #231
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Nothing to say on my fuel holding up past the benchmark fuel line that this engine absolutely can't surpass and you have to change fuel components to the slightly larger LT4 stuff at a minimum?
I don't know if this is meant for me or not but I will answer anyway.

All of our testing is done on a completely stock LT-1 with a Maggie Heartbeat, so it is a good common platform to test with.

We run them much richer than you are .78-.80 which means more liquid fuel going through the engine at said power level.

A portion of our fuel is not for making power but for cooling, longevity and to protect the cats from failing.

I am in a position that If I recommend something I have to air on the side of caution.

Think if the scenario where it were the other way around, and I told you OH Yeah you can make 700 on pump gas with stock fuel components and you ended up burning a piston. How would I look then?

I would rather be wrong, than have you fail an engine.

Your build has several advantages when it comes to Peak HP,

Larger Cam with 30% lobe and additional air flow.

The Procharger, Centrifugals are more efficient and take less crank HP to turn so that turns into RWHP.

LT headers and no cats to protect.

And in my opinion is too lean afr.

I wish you all the best luck in the world.

Ted.
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Old 05-06-2017, 09:57 AM   #232
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Nothing to say on my fuel holding up past the bench markmfuel line thatbthis engine absolutely can't surpass and you have to change fuel components to the slightly larger LT4 stuff at a minimum?
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:25 PM   #233
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Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
I don't know if this is meant for me or not but I will answer anyway.

All of our testing is done on a completely stock LT-1 with a Maggie Heartbeat, so it is a good common platform to test with.

We run them much richer than you are .78-.80 which means more liquid fuel going through the engine at said power level.

A portion of our fuel is not for making power but for cooling, longevity and to protect the cats from failing.

I am in a position that If I recommend something I have to air on the side of caution.

Think if the scenario where it were the other way around, and I told you OH Yeah you can make 700 on pump gas with stock fuel components and you ended up burning a piston. How would I look then?

I would rather be wrong, than have you fail an engine.

Your build has several advantages when it comes to Peak HP,

Larger Cam with 30% lobe and additional air flow.

The Procharger, Centrifugals are more efficient and take less crank HP to turn so that turns into RWHP.

LT headers and no cats to protect.

And in my opinion is too lean afr.

I wish you all the best luck in the world.

Ted.
Not intended towards any one individual at all, I had several people tell me the fuel would run out under 600hp. You're in a much different position than most, in that your recommendation is your company's name and like you said, running on the side of caution is a must. You have to lean out a little to make horsepower though. My Z06 and my CTS-V ran more lean than .80 though. I put just over 32k on the V and it took a lot of highway hits in the Texas heat for long stretches haha
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Old 05-06-2017, 10:53 PM   #234
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12.65 is almost a N/A tune. We would shoot for 13-13.3 when I had my dyno. F/I cars were 10.0-11.0 max AFR. So Ted has a very valid point. 12.65 is way to lean for F/I car.
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Old 05-07-2017, 11:03 AM   #235
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12.65 is almost a N/A tune. We would shoot for 13-13.3 when I had my dyno. F/I cars were 10.0-11.0 max AFR. So Ted has a very valid point. 12.65 is way to lean for F/I car.
I disagree strongly, I've never had an F/I car in the 11's. I lost nothing on the high pressure side and only 2psi on the low side.

When it was your car, you thought 12-13 afr was nice and safe. You never got below 12, now you're trying to tell me mine is way too lean?? My car never gets close to 13.
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Old 05-07-2017, 12:46 PM   #236
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I'm pretty sure that's when my low side was not keeping up. Before the fuel pumps and injectors
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Old 05-07-2017, 12:55 PM   #237
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I'm pretty sure that's when my low side was not keeping up. Before the fuel pumps and injectors
It was when your fuel was nice and safe running the 4.0. Which I agree, it was in the safe zone. 10-11 is too rich and taking horsepower away from you. I would bet money you're in the low 12's now just like I am. Which is the sweet spot. I ran my cts-v in the low 12's for over 32k miles with no issues from the engine what so ever. I was hard on it too.
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Old 05-07-2017, 02:53 PM   #238
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Originally Posted by Chevy71 View Post
It was when your fuel was nice and safe running the 4.0. Which I agree, it was in the safe zone. 10-11 is too rich and taking horsepower away from you. I would bet money you're in the low 12's now just like I am. Which is the sweet spot. I ran my cts-v in the low 12's for over 32k miles with no issues from the engine what so ever. I was hard on it too.
My AEM gauge shows me at 14.7 at idle and goes down to around 11.2 at WOT. Does that mean I can get more out of her? I do know I have to change to headers and 2nd cat delete to get more air coming out too (going to do that soon) but wondering if my ATF being 11.2 is on the conservative side too?
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