[Odabo]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

THX Krops. I wanted that wolf in sheeps clothing kind of look lol

You definitely achieved that. I think it's a great look on your car, kinda stealthy indeed.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Odabo

You definitely achieved that. I think it's a great look on your car, kinda stealthy indeed.

Thx. Appreciate it!!’

[sr71bb]

Ok Today We set up the KW Variant 3 coilovers on my car. These are part number 35261027 and are NOT for use with electronic Dampeners (MAGRIDE). These coilovers have 18 REBOUND settings and 16 COMPRESSION settings which why they are called DOUBLE Adjustable. I am running these with my VORSHLAG camber plates. Turning the dials in a CLOCKWISE direction and the setting will be harder or more firmer.

Initially we are going with 12 clicks from FULL Soft on the COMPRESSION setting for the FRONTS (same as 4 clicks from FULL hard in other words). On the FRONT REBOUND settings we are going with 10 clicks from FULL SOFT.

On the REAR setting we are 8 clicks from full soft for COMPRESSION and 10 clicks from full soft on the rebound setting.

We will try these at the next track day,

We also corner balanced the car.


The only REAL SURPRISE is that we have a LITTLE LESS clearance room with the KW because the springs come down LOWER on the strut shaft compared to the GM strut and the KW spring is larger in diameter than the body of the GM strut that I was using.

What this means is that I needed to use a 5MM spacer for proper clearance when before I DID NOT have to.

I also have attached an alignment sheet and corner balance sheet on the car. The WEIGHT you see displayed includes an extra 225 pounds for the driver and 10 gallons of fuel (70 pounds). So the car basically weights 3620 pound empty. The IMPORTANT number on the FOUR corner balance sheet is the CROSS BALANCE numbers. Those should be within 1/2% 0f 50% cross balance and they are roughly within 1/4% of 50%.

The car side view pic is how the car sits NOW with MAYBE 1/2 inch space between tire and top of wheel well opening. The COULD be adjusted LOWER by another 1/2 inch but it should work better at THIS height. This is STREET set up with APEX SM-10 ET22 19 x 10.5 square with MS 305 30 19 tires.

MY THANKS to AMP, DOGHOUSE PERFORMANCE and to VORSHLAG Motorsports.

[sr71bb]

Today we installed GARMIN CATALYST. It was hard wired into the car to eliminate most of the exposed wiring. For me the best spot for mounting it was basically DEAD CENTER almost touching the dash.

The Garmin itself can come completely off its windshield mount (its magnetic) for safe keeping when not in use. NONE of the cabling directly connects to the GARMIN because all that connects to the mounting base.

I would suggest ordering a hard case for the actual GARMIN itself so you can store it when not in use. They are about 20 bucks and that will also help you in not scratching your screen when not in use.

If you look towards the TOP of the first PIC you can see the camera is mounted in center and fairly high up.

The LAST pic shows you what the mount looks like when the GARMIN is removed and stored for safe keeping.

[SCCAForums]

I've been a fan of the Garmin for quite some time. Would love to see how/where you did the hard wiring.

Best regards,
Dave

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Today we installed GARMIN CATALYST. It was hard wired into the car to eliminate most of the exposed wiring. For me the best spot for mounting it was basically DEAD CENTER almost touching the dash.

The Garmin itself can come completely off its windshield mount (its magnetic) for safe keeping when not in use. NONE of the cabling directly connects to the GARMIN because all that connects to the mounting base.

I would suggest ordering a hard case for the actual GARMIN itself so you can store it when not in use. They are about 20 bucks and that will also help you in not scratching your screen when not in use.

If you look towards the TOP of the first PIC and to the right side of the second PIC you can see the camera is mounted in center and fairly high up.

The Third PIC gives you better view of the mount itself.

The LAST pic shows you what the mount looks like when the GARMIN is removed and stored for safe keeping.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by SCCAForums

I've been a fan of the Garmin for quite some time. Would love to see how/where you did the hard wiring.

Best regards,
Dave

Well I didnt have a complete set of TRIM tools so I had my stereo shop hide these wires. He ran the cable from the camera directly into the headliner and to the RIGHT side of the car and down the RIGHT side pillar post. Then he took the trim piece loose that is directly adjacent to the windshield and ran the cable underneath it. He then brought the cable out directly to the back of the mounting base.

To make the windshield dash trim piece fit perfectly flat again I took a DREMEL tool and made a small semicircular notch so that the cable could exit thru that notch and then it allowed the trim piece to be pushed back into place without pinching the cable.

The power cable he ran from around the gas pedal area behind the console and then UP to the same location that the camera cable was exiting. He wired the GARMIN Power feed cable into the cigarette lighter wire so that it would only be active once ignition is ON. As you know BOTH of these cables (power feed and camera) attach to the head of the magnetic mount. I then took some SPLIT black plastic conduit and used that to cover the cable wires.

Now when we did this initially, WE WERE NOT going to hard wire it but I thought it look like ASS so after I found the LONGER camera cable in the damn GARMIN box I knew at least we had long enough cable to hard wire it.

And that like Paul Harvey used to say "That's the rest of the story".

[sr71bb]

Ok Guys,

Prior to the GARMIN (just installed see above), I used a magnetic phone mount for my IPHONE that had a mounting bracket that attached to the FRONT windshield. Well I couldnt really leave that mount there and still have the GARMIN mounted due to visiibility issues so I got a phone mount from COURSE MOTORSPORTS www.coursemotorsports.com
Here is an install video for that iphone holder bracket:

https://youtu.be/YmW8y7wNEPM

Now I ordered the POWERED cradle that in THEORY would charge your phone while it sets in the cradle. In playing around with it yesterday it WOULD NOT charge the phone because I had a plastic protective case on my iphone as do most people I suppose. I am sure it would have charged if there was NOT a protective cover on phone.

In any event, they have have a mechanical grip mount that is NON-POWERED that I just ordered. The other option they have is the magnetic mount but I wasnt sure that would be strong enough to hold the phone in high G situations .

The phone actually mounts just to the RIGHT of the radio display pretty much out of the way as you can see from the video. When I do the install I will run the IPHONE charging cable BEHIND the radio face and bring it out thru a small notch I will make in the side of the radio bezel so that maybe just an inch or so will show of the charging cable. I will post back up with PICS once I install.

[SCCAForums]

sr71bb, great images, thank you! I'll need to try to do that this summer... hate the 'wires' hanging look!

Thanks again for the detailed pics and info. You'll love that Garmin Catalyst!

Best regards,
Dave

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by SCCAForums

sr71bb, great images, thank you! I'll need to try to do that this summer... hate the 'wires' hanging look!

Thanks again for the detailed pics and info. You'll love that Garmin Catalyst!

Best regards,
Dave

Your welcome Dave!!!

[sr71bb]

Ok the new KW Variant 3 coilovers worked very well today. I did a 2.03.79 according to GARMIN Video below. On that same lap the Eagles Canyon track system documented a 2.03.493. This was at EAGLES CANYON CCW which is the normal direction. You can hear the wind buffeting inside the car. What you DONT hear, which is a good thing; is a lot of tire noise because the car is hooked up pretty good. Outside temps were about 55 degrees. Tires were set at 24 PSI cold.

I am pretty sure I can go faster because the rear end was not hooked up as much as I would like. That will probably remedy itself when I get some aero pieces on the bottom of the car just prior to the rear bumper. Next month I will be at Motorsports Ranch Cresson TeXas on the 1.7 Clockwise. Prior to that I will have Adam Poland at DOGHOUSE Performance dial in the suspension. I think also I will have him try and get -3.0 camber on the REAR of the car. TODAY, I was running -3.7 front and -2.4 rear camber.


https://youtu.be/F732ykI03Zs

[sr71bb]

Ok guys,

First time to use the Garmin was yesterday and thanks to some of my fellow racers that are long time users I wanted to share the following.

The Garmin comes with a 32GB MICRO SD card that is accessible by removing the back of the Garmin. If you look at the pic below, I have removed the cover and you will see the SD card that I have partially removed. You can see the white printing on the card.

Now the GARMIN Also has an external slot on the right side of the screen on the side that you can use another SD card for storage. Currently the best option is a very high speed 256GB Micro SD card that can record in 4K resolution. You want the EXTREME PLUS card (cost around 42.00) I have been told this card is big enough to hold about 60 hours of video. It comes with the micro SD card and a SD reader so that you can directly insert the SD card into your PC. Then you can make a YOUTUBE video by uploading this file.

Video IS NOT automatically stored on the SD cards. So when you are done with racing you can select which videos you want to copy to the SD card. Using the INTERNAL SD card that comes with the Garmin, I copied the file that had my fastest time. It takes about 4-5 minutes for that to happen to the internally stored card. I have no doubt that it IF I had the 256MB high speed card the process would be considerably faster.

The size of these MP4 video files can be quite large. The VIDEO I recorded of my 2.03 lap for instance is 131MB in size. So that's why the need is there for these LARGER MICRO SD cards with fast access times.

I really liked GARMIN, it looks at all your runs and takes the FASTEST segments and aggregates them into a theoretical lap called the OPTIMAL lap and then compares that to your ACTUAL lap times.

I DID NOT use the verbal coaching option. I thought the video was EXCELLENT quality. More posts to come later after I REALLY get into it.

[That1guy_tim]

That track looks like a good time!

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by That1guy_tim

That track looks like a good time!

Yeah it has a 1/2 mile back straight where the faster cars can go 134-140 MPH. The track was resurfaced a couple of years ago and is very smooth. They cleared out most of the off track obstacles so an OFF TRACK incident is rarely that damaging.

If your car is handling well you can run several of the turns together in a connector fashion by just increasing or decreasing your steering input if that makes any sense.

It is my favorite track to run on even when compared to COTA or Motorsports Ranch.

[sr71bb]

Ok so Last night I completed the installation of the COURSE MOTORSPORTS www.coursemotorsports.com IPHONE mount in car.

I installed the MANUAL CRADLE option that grabs the phone on three sides. There is a push button on BACK of the cradle that releases it so you can remove it. It seems to hold the phone fairly tightly but I havent track tested it yet at 1.5 G's LOL

If you remember I tried to utilize the CHARGING CRADLE option but that WOULD NOT charge thru my IPHONE case. They also have a magnetic button option that attaches to a flat magnet that you would attach to the BACK of your phone but I didnt think that would be strong enough to hold the phone in place in track conditions.

INSTALLATION TIPS

Ok I don't like exposed wires so I drilled a small hole in the INSIDE the console storage area and ran the charging cable from the charging port through that hole and DOWN so that I could feed the cable underneath the SIDE of the console (see FIRST pic below video). I basically lifted up the console for this procedure but that only takes the removal of SIX 10MM bolts . I DID NOT remove the console completely I just raised it up where I could easily get the IPHONE charging cable underneath the side of the console.

Here is a good video showing the location of those six bolts:



So after running down the cable underneath the side of the console, I brought the iphone cable out underneath the dash to the LEFT of the glove box and then secured the cable with some cable fasteners and wire ties (second PIC).

So when NOT is use (third pic) which is never probably NEVER, there is just a short length of the iphone cable that shows.

Fourth pic is what it looks like in cradle.

I will post back how this all holds up.