[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

You will LOVE that lid... looks great and sounds even better!

SOCAL.M6.ZLE ! Your under the hood pics and build photo log inspired my build !!!! Thanks !!!!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

For my 2023 ZL1 A10, I obviously have the DSX Flex Fuel kit and the JMS Fuel Max Booster kit (and I'll get Flex Fuel tune as well). But, I'm wondering where the issues start showing up related to not enough high side fuel pressure. If I understand it right, that's where the issues are related to running a mix or straight flex fuel. I've attached two HPTuners data logs and have highlighted the fuel PSI etc. They both show demand and the actual when running 93 octane (no flex fuel). My question is: Is there a way to determine from the data logs attached, if my high side fuel pressure will be sustainable based on the demand request once I mix in flex fuel? In other words, I'm trying to determine what Fuel PSI is required to run say E30 to E60+. I do have the JMS Fuel MAX system and will install it, but I'm curious at what point do you see your running out of pump vs having enough when mixing in flex fuel.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

So, I started the install of both the DSX Flex Fuel Kit and the JMS Fuel Max booster. All in all, it’s been pretty smooth and I only have two steps left with the JMS (the FPCM wiring steps and calibration).

Frist the DSX Flex Fuel Kit: I removed the fuel line retaining clip easily (000.jpg). Then it was rough going after that. My coil relocation rail was preventing the fuel line disconnect tool from fitting around the fuel line (001.jpg). Since I have different valve covers and a coil relocation kit install. This prevented the fuel line disconnect tool from being able to fit and slip up under the fuel line connector to disengage the 4 pressure clips inside holding the fuel line in place.

So, I had to remove the driver’s side valve cover, including the plug wires and coil packs (002.jpg). After I released the fuel line (003.jpg) and put the valve cover back on along with the coil packs/plug wires. I was able to get the Flex Fuel sensor connected to the factory fuel line (004.jpg). I finished installing the Flex Fuel kit (005.jpg) and ran the wire over to the connector of the ECM (006.jpg).

Next, I disengaged the ECM connector and was able to do so easily (007a.jpg – 007c.jpg).

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[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

<< Continued >> Once unconnected, the wire wouldn’t pull out as it was running under the hold down of the main fuse box (008.jpg & 009.jpg). So, I had to remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding the fuse box in place and pull the fuse box up and out of the way. I was then able to get the ECM cable up high enough to work with it. It came a part pretty easily (010a.jpg – 010c.jpg). I used a pick to push through the solid plastic plug (011.jpg) that was covering the pin hole I needed to insert the DSX FF Kit wire. Once I did that, I pushed the wire in until it clicked and engaged and aligned the connector on the other side (012.jpg)! Reinstalled the fuse box and DSX Kit DONE (013.jpg)! It was easy, everything went back together fine and I fired up the ZL1 and she was all good!

<<continued>>

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Secondly: JMS Fuel MAX Booster. Mounting the device was easy! Jannetty Racing’s instructions shows the perfect place to mount it (014.jpg - 017.jpg). Also, you can use two of the (4) mounting holes on either side of the device. But, you will need to make your own holes for the other side using the self-tapping sheet metal screws. Running the wires to the throttle pedal wasn’t bad either. I’m a person that would rather do a few extra steps and make the job overall easier and smother. Verses less steps but make the job harder to complete. So, even though most everyone says “you don’t need to remove the back seat”, I removed mine, both the back-rest and the back seat itself (018.jpg). It was actually really easy to do and I was glad I did. This gave me all the easy access to run the wires without frustration. I found a nice pass though toward the upper drive’s side rear / back seat area (019.jpg). This gave easy access to get the cable into the back inside trim piece (020.jpg). After doing so, running the wire along the side trim under the carpet was easy as well (021.jpg & 022.jpg). Hint: Use a trim tool to properly remove any push in trim fasteners so you can re-use if needed. I have a bunch of new ones but it makes it nice to use the proper tool so you don’t scratch or mare the plastic trim pieces etc. When it came to running the wire from the door jam area to the peddle, I removed the peddle (023.jpg)

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[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Then I just pushed my entire arm/hand under the carpet and toward the peddle carpet cut out (024.jpg) and pull the wire through by the peddle. Then connected the pig tail to the stock connector and the JMS connector to the peddle (025.jpg). HINT: [ I removed any excess wire wrap from the wires at the peddle to the end of the wire (026.jpg). It was bulky and didn’t fit smooth and flush under the carpet. So, I simply removed the wire housing and taped the wires together and presto, nice and smooth!] Also, don’t button everything up quite yet (027.jpg), as you still need to calibrate the JMS voltage at like ½, ¾ and 100% throttle. I will need to remove the peddle and untap the wires to do so. But, it’s not that big of a deal just extra time. Last few steps, run the RED and WHITE wires from the JMS device through the plastic plug in the trunk (028.jpg) and drop the wires down and underneath the car (029.jpg). NOTE: At least for the 2023 ZL1, DON’T try and intercept the HOT wire to the FPCM / fuel pump at the fuse box in the trunk. The wires are much smaller gauge then the JMS wires and it will for sure cause you some huge issues down the road! So now I’m to the point where I’m stuck I don’t know how to disengage the FPCM connector (030.jpg). I pushed the red tab upward (031.jpg), but can’t get the male end connector to disconnect. I’m waiting for some further instructions. After that I will made the connections with the red/white wires and calibrate the voltage and then I’m done. Also, many of the instruction out there say if you located the JMS unit in the location where I did, and run the wires through the plastic plug as I did. The Red/White wires will be long enough to reach the FPCM connector for the new connections. Well, on my 2023 ZL1, the wires are about 6 " too short and I'll need to added an extension. I will probably do this in the trunk space vs under the car since it will be out of the weather and won't be any road wear etc. I’ll get the Flex Fuel tune and Presto! NO MORE MODS !!!! well, until bad weather arrives!!!

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

For my 2023 ZL1 A10, I obviously have the DSX Flex Fuel kit and the JMS Fuel Max Booster kit (and I'll get Flex Fuel tune as well). But, I'm wondering where the issues start showing up related to not enough high side fuel pressure. If I understand it right, that's where the issues are related to running a mix or straight flex fuel. I've attached two HPTuners data logs and have highlighted the fuel PSI etc. They both show demand and the actual when running 93 octane (no flex fuel). My question is: Is there a way to determine from the data logs attached, if my high side fuel pressure will be sustainable based on the demand request once I mix in flex fuel? In other words, I'm trying to determine what Fuel PSI is required to run say E30 to E60+ I do have the JMS Fuel MAX system and will install it, but I'm curious at what point do you see your running out of pump vs having enough when mixing in flex fuel.

I confess, i didnt read your entire thread yet, but thought id chime in on this. Ill again say... im just a noob who pretends to know things so please validate anything i say.

The two metrics i would use to determine if your high side is running out are injector pulse width (IPW) and just actual high side fuel pressure. There should be a relationship there.

I have experience mainly with my procharged LT1 with LT4 high side components. I'm not sure if an LT4 follows the exact same guidelines, but your IPW should stay less than 5.5-6.0 milliseconds. Any greater than that and it indicates you are running out of what ill call injector capacity. In other words, your injectors are having to stay "on" for a very long time to administer the fuel needed. Beyond that window, continuing to spray more fuel isnt actually providing useful fueling.

The second is high side fuel pressure. Your high side fuel pressure should be staying close to commanded, which on an LT4 I think is around 2700 to 2900 psi. If you see dips to 2500 prob not a huge deal, but i would think anything lower than 2400 psi indicates you are at a tipping point.

Based on what i know... on an otherwise stock LT4 with booster on the low side, I would think you'd be able to run E30 no problem, and just go up slowly from there. Probably topping out around E40 to E50-ish.

If your high side fuel pressure drops, your IPW will be longer as well because the injectors have to stay on longer due to reduced pressure, thus the relationship i mentioned earlier. So once you get close to the tipping point, things can go downhill fast.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

So I did the unthinkable I spliced the Red/Purple FPCM connector wire and spliced in my JMS Fuel Max ! I did have to extend the wire and decided to do so under the car after all. They locate the inline fuse way down the wire and it just made sense to extend the wire under the car. I purchased some wire connectors male/female then used pliers and pinched them together, kind of locking them and then soldered them, pulled the heat shrink in place and completed the splice, reconnected to the FPCM module am I was done. I now need to test the unit and calibrate the voltage! I included a miss photo from my original install showing the hole I passed the wires through the trunk to the pedal.

A few things I found out regarding the JMS Fuel Max install after talk to their tech support yesterday. 1) If you use the 0-5V sensor (red wire to the pedal) for the JMS voltage boost activation that connects to the wiring harness at the pedal. You do not need to run the black and grey wires from the trunk any where, they are not needed. The Black and grey wires are only needed if you use the Hobbs pressure switch install option. They explained it will make no difference in the way the device functions between either option. 2) They confirm DON'T splice the wire at the fuse box in trunk, big issues will happen!, 3) The 2 Pin connector, the short wire connector that comes out of the JMS device, is only used if your using a remote voltage adjustment switch, 4) The fuse they send with the kit doesn't fit the 2023 ZL1, it's a mini fuse and my car requires a micro fuse.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

DSX Supercharger Lid showed up today! I think it looks amazing. It took me about 20 minutes to remove my old, and install the new. It would have been more like 15, but I dropped a bolt and had to find it. Over all I think it looks BAD A$$ ! I love the way the inside is designed to make almost a left and right tunnel/path for the air. One thing I was shocked about, how much oil I found in the supercharger that my catch can DID NOT CATCH! A bit puzzled with this discovery!

[RobZL1]

Lid looks great! That's more oil than I think I've ever seen in a blower. Something's not right with the can or perhaps one of your check valves is not functioning. That's my opinion anyway. That looks like a TON of oil for the low low mileage on your car.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Lid looks great! That's more oil than I think I've ever seen in a blower. Something's not right with the can or perhaps one of your check valves is not functioning. That's my opinion anyway. That looks like a TON of oil for the low low mileage on your car.

UGH ! I know, I know !!! I was pretty shocked, to be honest dang irritated! I'm going to reach out to elite and see what they say, I have NO problem getting a new can if there is a better option. But if it's a check valve that would be an easy fix I guess. I'm sure I have the check valve flow direction correctly. I also now wonder if I have solved my issue of when sometimes I fire her up, especially after it's sat for a go amount of time. That smokes blows out of the exhaust (it's kind of embarrassing as well) like my high school beater did that went through a quart of oil every 2 weeks. The funny thing, my oil level has been bad and I've only topped off once with literally, maybe like 3 to 4 ounces. I will check the oil level this evening as well.

[WhiteMale]

I removed the sound plate from my lid when it was just a couple thousand miles and I had oil in there but nearly what you're showing. I do not have a CC, it looks more complicated than I can to do on the LT4. I used one on my '15 Coyote but it was a very easy install and captured a lot of oil.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Something interesting related to the Catch Can. On February 10th-2023, I found an email I sent to Elite Engineering questioning the amount of oil that was building up on the lip and inside the front part of the CA Air intake snout and the amount of oil I could see through the intake port looking in to the supercharger. This is when I was replacing my stock TB with my 100mm Soler TB. So I've kind of had this issue since day one apparently. Here is the photo I sent them back in February:

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

DSX Supercharger Lid showed up today! I think it looks amazing. It took me about 20 minutes to remove my old, and install the new. It would have been more like 15, but I dropped a bolt and had to find it. Over all I think it looks BAD A$$ ! I love the way the inside is designed to make almost a left and right tunnel/path for the air. One thing I was shocked about, how much oil I found in the supercharger that my catch can DID NOT CATCH! A bit puzzled with this discovery!

Bravo SIR... well done... your engine bay is looking fantastic! I also like your coolant tank, i may consider that next... I am also surprised to see the lake of oil under the lid... that would have me very upset... I cant imagine how the back of your intake valves look :(