03-10-2020, 02:39 AM | #169 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,069
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could you look at yours and see if the top bushing got pushed down with the weight of the car? like i said befor with the top bushing not being fully seated the cradle is crooked. it will mess with the alignment and the alignment of the drive shaft. Im thinking that with time the weight of the car it could push the cradle up so the top bushing is bottomed out like it should be. Then your alignment will be off. I am a perfectionist. I even replace all the bolts and took my perfectly good BMR bushings out just to have it all GM. I use $250 snap on tq wrenches on everything. I even bought the Kent-Moore CH-51034-A Cradle Alignment Pins. and all Kent Moore ls/lt tools. I know I need help. There should be groups for people like me.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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03-10-2020, 10:20 AM | #170 | |
Drives: 1LEs Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW - Texas
Posts: 1,320
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04-02-2020, 11:28 PM | #171 |
Drives: 2007 C6 Z06 Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 34
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So I fell into the trap and am planning on converting my SS 1LE to full FEA. I've already purchased the DSSV struts used but unfortunately they don't have any hardware. I was able to look up the nuts and bolts for the knuckle mounts but I couldn't find the strut mount bolts. Does anyone know if these are carried over from the FE4?
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04-02-2020, 11:38 PM | #172 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,069
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id ask your dealer or call https://www.thatgmpartsguy.com/contact-us
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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04-03-2020, 09:31 AM | #173 | |
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: May 2018
Location: Los angeles, CA
Posts: 21
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Top mounting GM bolt numbers: 1588730 long (this is for the GM performance strut brace which require longer bolts) 11602257 short (stock bolts) |
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04-03-2020, 08:21 PM | #174 |
Drives: 2007 C6 Z06 Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 34
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Awesome thanks for checking on that. I think if you bought the zl1 1le lowering and handling kit it might've come with some instruction on installing them including the torque specs. Travislambert was that the case with your kit and would you be willing to share it to the rest of us? Otherwise the only other option is purchasing a helms manual or do a 3 day subscription here:
https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions# |
05-29-2020, 04:51 AM | #175 |
Drives: Camaro ZL1 2018 AT10 Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Poland
Posts: 11
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Hi guys!
I also thinking to change something with my stock ZL1 suspension. I'm using my car on street (not daily, but some weekends trips) and max. 10 times per year going to track day. After reviewing this thread have some thoughts I should do if I want get better handling. 1. Change rear cradle bushings for this one from ZL1 1LE: https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/84341929.html 2. Install handling upgrade system from ZL1 1LE: https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/84352119.html 3. BMR sway bars for front and rear: https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...662&superpro=0 4. BMR sway bars end link kit: https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...611&superpro=0 Does some other parts from BMR (like control arms, toe rods, trailing arms) make sense for me when using car like I wrote above ? Before reading this thread I wanted to change my suspension for DSSV or KW V3 , but right now thinking that FE4 with MRC is the best option for me, but also want to make it better. |
05-29-2020, 05:10 AM | #176 | |
Drives: 1LEs Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW - Texas
Posts: 1,320
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05-29-2020, 05:44 AM | #177 | |
Drives: Camaro ZL1 2018 AT10 Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Poland
Posts: 11
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Then I need only 84051643 / 44 ? |
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05-29-2020, 06:01 AM | #178 | |
Drives: 1LEs Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW - Texas
Posts: 1,320
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If it was my car, I'd just do the front lower links and rear cradle bushings to start. Until you are VERY advanced pace on track, and know exactly what type of corner entry, mid-corner, corner exit style you prefer, I would not mess with the sway bar rates. Then, you can fine tune the suspension to your personal liking. It's your car, so, change to your liking now or in the future. |
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05-29-2020, 09:51 AM | #179 | |
Drives: '17 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 1,566
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I'm as guilty as anybody when it comes to this. More than once I found myself lusting over upgrades only to invest a bunch of money and time for no meaningful benefit. One upgrade I don't regret at all was BMR upper+lower trailing arms and toe links. There are a couple of hard double-apex right hand turns at PittRace where my left rear tire kept rubbing the liner. I even had a shiny spot on the body where the tire flexed over and rubbed. I installed the single adjustable trailing arms as well as the double-adjustable toe rods and that problem went away. As has already been mentioned, have a particular goal in mind for each change while keeping in mind the parts you already have are really, really, good.
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06-02-2020, 05:59 PM | #180 | |
Drives: Camaro ZL1 2018 AT10 Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Poland
Posts: 11
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OEM control arms, toe rods, trailing arms, etc. are not specially good quality. Even on street I have problems with drive because I can't drive straight and is always fight with the car . Handling it's not good. I read at this thread that really much difference makes changing rear cradle bushings. It's true ? Shall I start with it first ? |
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06-02-2020, 06:56 PM | #181 | |
Drives: 22' Porsche PDK GT4 Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 2,027
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In fact, if you look at the parts list, most of the suspension pieces are shares across all 3 models. Obviously you have to factor out the DSSV's from the ZLE, and account for different sway bar rates & spring rates for the various weights, but in general most other components are shared. The ZLE does use hard mounts in the front shock attach points, but that is less of an issue than the rear cradle bushings. For those that complain about the stamped arms, they are misguided. Most of the "flex" of the arms that you see in videos (like BMR) are applying forces on the wrong axis that forces are applied to those parts when on the car. They are designed to be the weakest link in the suspension system for crash/failure points. Trust me, you put solid bushings in the rear and you will be a happy camper.
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Current:
22' Porsche PDK GT4 (MCS 2-way remote dampers) Previous: 18' NFG 2SS 1LE (ZL1 1LE solid rear cradle bushings & Corsa Exhaust) 16' F80 M3 (Ohlin R/T Coilovers) 13' Audi TTRS (APR Stage 1, MSS Springs) 09' C6 Z06 08' E90 M3 06' 335i (KW V2 Coilovers) 03' C5 Z06 |
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06-02-2020, 07:51 PM | #182 | ||
Drives: '17 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 1,566
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The crash safety aspect is interesting. I didn't consider that. I assumed they went with stamped parts primarily for weight savings as the OEM parts are considerably lighter when compared to the BMR parts.
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