[BMR Tech]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

I don't know what it is about these cars and sway bar end links. lol. I have the BMR end links on mine and I've had to tighten both of the front upper nuts after track days at different times. (user error I'm sure).

Which ones were loose? The lock nuts for length adjustment or the attachment point on the shock?

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by BMR Tech

Which ones were loose? The lock nuts for length adjustment or the attachment point on the shock?

The attachment point for the shocks. I'm sure it was my fault though, but both fronts have backed off just a hair in the past. It doesn't take much to get them to clunk in our cars. I have the length adjusters marked off with a paint pen and those are staying tight.

[camaro5]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

I don't know what it is about these cars and sway bar end links. lol. I have the BMR end links on mine and I've had to tighten both of the front upper nuts after track days at different times. (user error I'm sure).

Was loctite used?

bmr instructions specify loctite needed.

All threaded surfaces should be cleaned w/ brake cleaner prior to loctite application.

Let brake cleaner dry thoroughly before loctite is applied.

Torque to spec in bmr instructions

c

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by camaro5

Was loctite used?

bmr instructions specify loctite needed.

All threaded surfaces should be cleaned w/ brake cleaner prior to loctite application.

Let brake cleaner dry thoroughly before loctite is applied.

Torque to spec in bmr instructions

c

OK, this turned out to be more than I meant. It was more of a quip than an accusation at BMR which is why I made sure to put that it was user error in my original post.

That said, I did not use Loctite and the instructions do not call for it, nor do they say how tight to torque them to so I did not want to overtorque them:

Here is their install guide: https://www.bmrsuspension.com/sitear...all/ELK016.pdf

Installation:
1.Lift front of vehicle and remove both wheels/tires.
2.Use an 18mm wrench to remove the nuts from the OE sway bar end links. If the entire shaft of the end link spins, use a 6mm wrench to hold the shaft from the end while loosening the nut.
3.Remove the OE end link.
4.Using the OE end link as a guide, adjust one of the BMR end links to the same length as shown in the image below. Once adjusted, tighten the jam nuts using two ¾ wrenches.
5.Install the BMR end link onto the vehicle. Tighten the nuts using a 19mm wrench. If the entire shaft
spins while tightening, use a 14mm wrench to hold the base of th
e shaft while tightening the nut.
6.With the jam nuts loose on the other end link, adjust it until the end link fits the mounting holes on the vehicle. Tighten the jam nuts.
7.Duplicate step 5 for this end link. NOTE: This is our recommended installation procedure and will setup the sway bar and end links neutrally, for information on pre-loading your sway bar please contact BMR Tech.
8.Grease all tie rods, re-install the wheels/tires and lower the vehicle.

[camaro5]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

OK, this turned out to be more than I meant. It was more of a quip than an accusation at BMR which is why I made sure to put that it was user error in my original post.

That said, I did not use Loctite and the instructions do not call for it, nor do they say how tight to torque them to so I did not want to overtorque them:

Here is their install guide: https://www.bmrsuspension.com/sitear...all/ELK016.pdf

Installation:
1.Lift front of vehicle and remove both wheels/tires.
2.Use an 18mm wrench to remove the nuts from the OE sway bar end links. If the entire shaft of the end link spins, use a 6mm wrench to hold the shaft from the end while loosening the nut.
3.Remove the OE end link.
4.Using the OE end link as a guide, adjust one of the BMR end links to the same length as shown in the image below. Once adjusted, tighten the jam nuts using two ¾ wrenches.
5.Install the BMR end link onto the vehicle. Tighten the nuts using a 19mm wrench. If the entire shaft
spins while tightening, use a 14mm wrench to hold the base of th
e shaft while tightening the nut.
6.With the jam nuts loose on the other end link, adjust it until the end link fits the mounting holes on the vehicle. Tighten the jam nuts.
7.Duplicate step 5 for this end link. NOTE: This is our recommended installation procedure and will setup the sway bar and end links neutrally, for information on pre-loading your sway bar please contact BMR Tech.
8.Grease all tie rods, re-install the wheels/tires and lower the vehicle.

I had seen this version posted in another thread.

They actually specify loctite only for the rear links.

Neverless, loctite may help, and for more durability, add Nordlock washers.

It's with the ELK015 - Sway Bar End Link Kit, Set Of 4, Adjustable


Install the BMR end link as shown in IMAGE 2. The offset
bushing should have the narrow side closest to the outer
knuckle. Tighten the nuts on the sway bar side using a 17mm
wrench. If the entire shaft spins while tightening, use a 14mm
wrench to hold the base of the shaft while tightening the nut.
14. Insert the provided 10mm x 60mm bolt and washer into the
lower bushing of the end link and tighten using a 17mm wrench. NOTE: Blue Loctite is recommended
on this bolt. Torque to 33 ft/lbs.

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/index....productid=1611

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by camaro5

I had seen this version posted in another thread.

They actually specify loctite only for the rear links.

Neverless, loctite may help, and for more durability, add Nordlock washers.

It's with the ELK015 - Sway Bar End Link Kit, Set Of 4, Adjustable


Install the BMR end link as shown in IMAGE 2. The offset
bushing should have the narrow side closest to the outer
knuckle. Tighten the nuts on the sway bar side using a 17mm
wrench. If the entire shaft spins while tightening, use a 14mm
wrench to hold the base of the shaft while tightening the nut.
14. Insert the provided 10mm x 60mm bolt and washer into the
lower bushing of the end link and tighten using a 17mm wrench. NOTE: Blue Loctite is recommended
on this bolt. Torque to 33 ft/lbs.

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/index....productid=1611

I did make sure to use Loctite on the rears as outlined. If they loosen again I'll put a little dab on the fronts as well.

EDIT: On a side note, stupid me installed the rear end links with the grease nipple facing the knuckle so I couldn't grease them so I had to take it apart and swap sides. lol.

[camaro5]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

I did make sure to use Loctite on the rears as outlined. If they loosen again I'll put a little dab on the fronts as well.

EDIT: On a side note, stupid me installed the rear end links with the grease nipple facing the knuckle so I couldn't grease them so I had to take it apart and swap sides. lol.

lol - Stuff happens

Keep us posted!

[Teneck83]

Originally Posted by camaro5

Excellent solution. Hey - GM - Nordlock washers! Be sure to use brake cleaner on all threads before loctite application.





Very cool part.

But know they are relying only on loctite and proper torque on a lock-nut to secure the fasteners.

Add Nordlock washers for better reliability.



The new nut in the above posted bulletin P/N 11548382 MAY solve this too.

GM's paying 24 minutes of labor from get the car to park the car for this operation.


http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=108

nnnnnnnnnnn

Are these the correct end links for the SS 1LE?

[Cgocifer]

Does anyone have a picture of all four or at least one side of the affected end links?

[BMR Tech]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

The attachment point for the shocks. I'm sure it was my fault though, but both fronts have backed off just a hair in the past. It doesn't take much to get them to clunk in our cars. I have the length adjusters marked off with a paint pen and those are staying tight.

No worries just wanted to make sure we do not have an issue. Let me know if you need anything else.

[mrsnippy]

I started hearing this noise about a week after buying my 2018 1SS. It's hard to explain the feeling of hearing this noise whenever hitting a dip/bump and when making tighter turns. Took it into the dealership, but they said they've never heard of the issue. After a few hours they called back saying that it was indeed the sway bar and that they would order some new bolts for it. They tightened the original bolts but the noise came back after a few days. After getting them replaced, I haven't heard the noise since. Thanks a bunch for posting!

[Cgocifer]

Anyone know if the new nuts are available to the public for purchase yet?

[Cgocifer]

Answered my own question. Yes, they are available on GM parts direct.

[allenrayn]

Had the same problem. Took it in and the gm dealer replaced the nuts with the new ones. 2 weeks later, the clunking returned. Going to put on nordlock washers myself on all 4 nuts. This is absolutely crazy!

Question: I can't get my torque wrench and socket in the tight space for the lower nuts. I feel like i need a pass through torque wrench. Or a joint piece. How did you guys do it? Thanks!

These are the new nuts. But obviously they did not work.

The 3rd picture (sorry it is flipped 90 degrees) is the old factory nut