[m6-lt1]

Because my mechanic can’t manage his time correctly I wound up ordering a 1 person bleeder and bled my brakes myself. I already completed the procedure however I don’t trust myself as I suck at working on cars.i am going to the track next weekend for my first track even in my SS 1le.

I took the car around the block and the brakes are working fine. Does that mean I did it right? I never let the reservoir empty and I only opened the bleeder valves AFTER connecting the hose from the bleeding tool. I only disconnected the hose AFTER closing the bleeder. After explaining how I did it and the fact that my car felt like it did before the bleeding does that mean I’m good? I followed the order correctly and bled the inside bleeder first.

Also I didn’t buy enough endless rf fluid. I had 1 liter of endless fluid. I then used a little bit of motul dot 4 fluid I had (unopened bottle of course). Was that okay for me to mix?

I pumped the clutch about 60 times per caliper. Keep in mind I bled the first caliper I started with a 2nd time for good measure so I pumped the clutch about 300 times. It seemed to engage and disengage fine when I drove it around the block. Someone please let me know if I need to pump it more tomorrow morning.

[Baddawg53]

I think the only thing I'd say is maybe don't mix the endless fluid with regular dot 4. You want to keep that high boiling point as your brakes will get very hot. Regular dot 4 is not good enough. I've used rbf 660, endless and srf, I couldn't tell a difference but some people swear by only SRF. Maybe consider flushing all that out and making sure it's all endless fluid in the system.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

however I don’t trust myself as I suck at working on cars.i am going to the track next weekend for my first track even in my SS 1le.

No offense, but with the above quote, bleeding your own brakes (and before your first ever track day to boot) may be a recipe for disaster... I would triple check everything... When I changed to stainless steel brakes lines and switched over to Castrol SRF, I think i bought 3 Liters of it and used about 2.5L (I'm sure it was overkill but I absolutely wanted to make sure I had brand new fluid to all 4 corners)...

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

I think the only thing I'd say is maybe don't mix the endless fluid with regular dot 4. You want to keep that high boiling point as your brakes will get very hot. Regular dot 4 is not good enough. I've used rbf 660, endless and srf, I couldn't tell a difference but some people swear by only SRF. Maybe consider flushing all that out and making sure it's all endless fluid in the system.

I’ve used rbf for a track day before. I did more research after posting this and it’s fine to mix. The boiling points aren’t that different and it was only a little bit of Motul I had to add.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

No offense, but with the above quote, bleeding your own brakes (and before your first ever track day to boot) may be a recipe for disaster... I would triple check everything... When I changed to stainless steel brakes lines and switched over to Castrol SRF, I think i bought 3 Liters of it and used about 2.5L (I'm sure it was overkill but I absolutely wanted to make sure I had brand new fluid to all 4 corners)...

Let me clarify that statement. When I say I suck at working on cars it means a 1 hour job takes me 4 hours (especially if it’s my first time doing something). Once I get the hang of it (do it a second or 3rd time) I then can get it done in the 1 hour it takes everyone else. Honestly I’m a very meticulous person and I took my time. I’m also a paranoid person haha. Of course I watched a video and wrote the instructions done and followed them to a T. Was just wondering if there’s anything else to lookout for to know if it was done correctly. I could be wrong but I feel if I introduced air into the system the pedal would have went down further before the car stopped. It’s not doing that and I also mentioned I never let the fluid reservoir empty. I also think the car would shift poorly if I introduced air into the system but it is shifting fine.

My plan was to pay to get the job done but sometimes things don’t work out and we have to do things ourselves. Also coincidentally I saw a few other people post in the 1le FB group that they too bled there brakes for the first time ever yesterday haha.

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

I’ve used rbf for a track day before. I did more research after posting this and it’s fine to mix. The boiling points aren’t that different and it was only a little bit of Motul I had to add.

Ahh, misunderstood you, didn't realize it was RBF you mixed in. Thought it was just regular dot 4 fluid.

[dpevans]

Good write uphttps://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=545244&highlight=brake

[Kamero6]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Let me clarify that statement. When I say I suck at working on cars it means a 1 hour job takes me 4 hours (especially if it’s my first time doing something). Once I get the hang of it (do it a second or 3rd time) I then can get it done in the 1 hour it takes everyone else. Honestly I’m a very meticulous person and I took my time. I’m also a paranoid person haha. Of course I watched a video and wrote the instructions done and followed them to a T. Was just wondering if there’s anything else to lookout for to know if it was done correctly. I could be wrong but I feel if I introduced air into the system the pedal would have went down further before the car stopped. It’s not doing that and I also mentioned I never let the fluid reservoir empty. I also think the car would shift poorly if I introduced air into the system but it is shifting fine.

My plan was to pay to get the job done but sometimes things don’t work out and we have to do things ourselves. Also coincidentally I saw a few other people post in the 1le FB group that they too bled there brakes for the first time ever yesterday haha.

To check the bleed work, you can go for a drive after, and check the rotor temperature with a heat gun afterwards. Try not to pump the brakes, this will minimize the air effect on the system.
Temperatures should be same when comparing left and right discs. Rear ones are always cooler.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by Kamero6

To check the bleed work, you can go for a drive after, and check the rotor temperature with a heat gun afterwards. Try not to pump the brakes, this will minimize the air effect on the system.
Temperatures should be same when comparing left and right discs. Rear ones are always cooler.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have a temp gun so I can try this. I took the car on the highway and braked from 90 mph. Felt the same as before and then I enjoyed the car on twisty roads and it stopped fine. I also thought a trash can was a deer somehow and slammed on the brakes and they still felt fine. I’ll look for my temp gun and give your suggestion a try.

[Judy1le]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have a temp gun so I can try this. I took the car on the highway and braked from 90 mph. Felt the same as before and then I enjoyed the car on twisty roads and it stopped fine. I also thought a trash can was a deer somehow and slammed on the brakes and they still felt fine. I’ll look for my temp gun and give your suggestion a try.

You should be good. As long as the brake fluid reservoir didnt go dry and you introduced air, you should be fine. Im like you where I take my time and im very meticulous, but these cars are dead nuts easy to do general maintenance on. Almost makes me feel like im missing something ha.

As far as the fluids, my brain wouldnt let me do that and I would want to do a full flush to make sure its consistent. Different fluids have different physical/chemical properties.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by Judy1le

You should be good. As long as the brake fluid reservoir didnt go dry and you introduced air, you should be fine. Im like you where I take my time and im very meticulous, but these cars are dead nuts easy to do general maintenance on. Almost makes me feel like im missing something ha.

As far as the fluids, my brain wouldnt let me do that and I would want to do a full flush to make sure its consistent. Different fluids have different physical/chemical properties.

Thanks, the fluid reservoir not going empty is what I wanted confirmation on.

While not ideal I don’t think it’s an issue at all that I mixed different brands. Heck you can even mix dot 3 or dot 5.1 with dot 4. The only time it’s truly an issue is if you mix dot 5 with any of the above. The physical/chemical properties aren’t that different between two different dot 4 brands. I only used a little of the motul so I’m not that worried about it.

[TransamGTA350]

From your description of what you did, you took your time and were meticulous. Procedure was fine. Mixing the Endless and Motul is OK, in fact Motul has a little higher dry and wet boiling points.

I use a one man bleeder kit on mine and do it myself and no issues with brakes on a track day. I do use a large syringe to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir, then fill the reservoir with new fluid before I start the flush. Just makes it go quicker. I buy 2 liters of fluid and use about 1.5.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by TransamGTA350

From your description of what you did, you took your time and were meticulous. Procedure was fine. Mixing the Endless and Motul is OK, in fact Motul has a little higher dry and wet boiling points.

I use a one man bleeder kit on mine and do it myself and no issues with brakes on a track day. I do use a large syringe to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir, then fill the reservoir with new fluid before I start the flush. Just makes it go quicker. I buy 2 liters of fluid and use about 1.5.

Interesting. I did see some folks do it your way but I didn’t understand why as I thought emptying the reservoir would introduce air into the system. Interesting that it speeds up the process but I think I understand why now that I think about it. I also purchased a one man bleeder.

[TransamGTA350]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Interesting. I did see some folks do it your way but I didn’t understand why as I thought emptying the reservoir would introduce air into the system. Interesting that it speeds up the process but I think I understand why now that I think about it. I also purchased a one man bleeder.

You can get most of the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe and hose. There will be a little bit still at the bottom. You won't introduce air as long as you don't pump the brakes while the reservoir is empty. Fill the reservoir back up with new fluid and start bleeding while keeping an eye on the reservoir level and topping off as needed.