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Old 01-11-2022, 05:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunzl1 View Post
Great Idea, i'll try and locate the part numbers!!
Just for clarity, I'm talking about the ring gasket at the outlet of the manifold
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Old 01-12-2022, 02:22 PM   #16
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Yes
should be two gaskets? One for the header to cat, and the other is the outlet flange end.

Not sure if they are the same for a ZL1 and an SS or not...

Difficult finding those numbers...
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Old 01-19-2022, 12:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunzl1 View Post
Yes
should be two gaskets? One for the header to cat, and the other is the outlet flange end.

Not sure if they are the same for a ZL1 and an SS or not...

Difficult finding those numbers...
here you go
12624939: ring gasket at manifold
21992620: flange gasket on passenger side
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Old 01-20-2022, 05:51 PM   #18
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thanks
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Old 05-11-2022, 01:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjperformance View Post
Yeah, there was no way i was going to be able to drill the hole and weld the bung with it on the car.

I took a sharpie marker under the car with everything still bolted up. Found a place where the sharpie would fit to check for clearance. Once i was happy with the location and orientation, i marked the pipe with the sharpie, removed the section, drilled the hole, etc.

You will get metal shavings in the cat if you dont remove it to do this.

I will say though, there were more ideal placement options on the drivers side, but pass side was easier to remove.

You may want to prepurchase the header/manifold gasket. Its a crush style, and if you damage it it will leak and your o2 sensor readings will be off.
About to do this and order the gasket. Did you have to touch the driver side at all to get the passenger side out?
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Old 05-11-2022, 01:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue View Post
About to do this and order the gasket. Did you have to touch the driver side at all to get the passenger side out?
No, but i also didn't have enough play to remove it just by removing the converter and manifold outlet nuts. I had to remove the studs on the manifold outlet too. Luckily they were not rusted in.

If the studs were rusted in, I prob would have had to take further steps to drop the exhaust.
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Old 05-11-2022, 03:32 PM   #21
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Didnít read all this but why not just plug into the OBD2 port and monitor the factory O2ís?? They make wireless plug ins up to a gauge or monitor and you can see and scroll through a ton more items then just AFr.
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Old 05-11-2022, 03:49 PM   #22
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Here is a photo of mine... Before I upgraded to a V-Band clamp... hope this helps...
Never received feedback if it was put in the best place but based on what i read, i think so....
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Old 05-11-2022, 03:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Didnít read all this but why not just plug into the OBD2 port and monitor the factory O2ís?? They make wireless plug ins up to a gauge or monitor and you can see and scroll through a ton more items then just AFr.
Factory controllers only utilize narrowbands. 2020 c8 corvette were the first to get a wideband on gm stuff
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Old 05-11-2022, 03:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjperformance View Post
Yeah, there was no way i was going to be able to drill the hole and weld the bung with it on the car.

I took a sharpie marker under the car with everything still bolted up. Found a place where the sharpie would fit to check for clearance. Once i was happy with the location and orientation, i marked the pipe with the sharpie, removed the section, drilled the hole, etc.

You will get metal shavings in the cat if you dont remove it to do this.

I will say though, there were more ideal placement options on the drivers side, but pass side was easier to remove.

You may want to prepurchase the header/manifold gasket. Its a crush style, and if you damage it it will leak and your o2 sensor readings will be off.
Iíd like to add to CJís comment and recommend you use a step drill for making the hole. It will cut better and leave a hole that is almost free of burrs on the inside of the pipe.
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Old 05-11-2022, 08:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjperformance View Post
No, but i also didn't have enough play to remove it just by removing the converter and manifold outlet nuts. I had to remove the studs on the manifold outlet too. Luckily they were not rusted in.

If the studs were rusted in, I prob would have had to take further steps to drop the exhaust.
Thanks. Iíll try to work the studs out
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Old 05-11-2022, 09:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Didn’t read all this but why not just plug into the OBD2 port and monitor the factory O2’s?? They make wireless plug ins up to a gauge or monitor and you can see and scroll through a ton more items then just AFr.
Because 6th gens have Narrow band sensors which are designed for closed loop targeting Stoich or Lambda 1. They are not designed to accurately read PE(WOT)AFR accurately.

This is why we use a wideband sensor to monitor and/or adjust PE AFR.
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Old 05-11-2022, 10:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
Because 6th gens have Narrow band sensors which are designed for closed loop targeting Stoich or Lambda 1. They are not designed to accurately read PE(WOT)AFR accurately.

This is why we use a wideband sensor to monitor and/or adjust PE AFR.
Youíre shitting me??!! My 2013 Nissan used widebands and the models been the same since 2009!!
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Old 05-12-2022, 08:51 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Youíre shitting me??!! My 2013 Nissan used widebands and the models been the same since 2009!!
Nope...GM has never used Wideband sensors up until the C8 platform far as I know.
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