04-10-2019, 07:57 PM | #1 |
Drives: Gen 6 Camaro SS 1Le Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Denver
Posts: 23
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Lowering springs install questiion need help!!!!!!!
Need forum help guys...
Lowering the car today and am done with 1st front wheel, almost. I have everything installed ready to go back together BUT the sway bar end link for some reason doesn't line up with its home. Its not even close. I'm talking about the fastener end of the link lining up 3-4 full inches ABOVE its home location on the strut. HELP..... aaaarrrrrggghhh. |
04-10-2019, 09:12 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 391
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Is the whole front end off the ground? If one end is on the ground and the other in the air, you’ll have a lot of tension to attach the bar.
If the other side is in the air, put a jack under the knuckle and lift it until the sway bar lines up.
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04-10-2019, 10:10 PM | #3 |
Drives: Gen 6 Camaro SS 1Le Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Denver
Posts: 23
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Thanks Chris. That makes complete sense. only one side is off the ground. Any recommendations that way or simply get the otherside off the ground? I'm running out of Jacks and Jack stands....#doh.
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04-11-2019, 09:16 AM | #4 |
Hot Dog
Drives: '17 1SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,937
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You'd need nearly 1 ton of force to twist the sway bar 4 inches. It would be foolish to try. At a minimum, get the whole front end on jackstands, but IMO that's harder than putting the whole car on 4 stands, given it's easy to lift one side at a time with a floor jack.
So here's a question; how did you get the one strut out of the car with that much twist on the sway bar?
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04-11-2019, 09:32 PM | #5 |
Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 6,808
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if you jack the car by the pinch weld and not the suspension, the car is at full suspension droop and this won't be a problem. The lower control arm must be allowed to extend fully before removing the spring assembly...reverse the procedure to reinstall. 3-4"...you are waaay off
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04-12-2019, 08:57 AM | #6 | ||
Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Detroit, MI
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Quote:
Quote:
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04-12-2019, 07:56 PM | #7 |
Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 6,808
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I've removed the sway bar end links from one side a few times so there is something really screwy going on here. How about a pic of this 3-4" issue?
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold) |
04-13-2019, 06:05 PM | #8 | |
Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,001
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Quote:
If you had only one side of the car up in the air and could freely remove and replace the links then it sounds like there's something wrong with your sway bar because it isn't doing anything to resist suspension roll.
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04-14-2019, 01:55 PM | #9 | |
Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 6,808
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Quote:
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold) |
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04-15-2019, 05:51 PM | #10 | |
Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,001
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Quote:
But, by all means, don't take my word for it (I personally don't like to believe things just someone says so, either). Here's a few pictures taken from my 6th gen Camaro to illustrate: 1) Car is completely on the ground with the LF sway bar link removed. Sway bar link stud lines up nicely with the hole in the sway bar and can be bolted together easily. 2) LH side of car is lifted from the pinch weld. LF wheel goes to full rebound, RH front wheel stays on the ground. Sway bar link is now a few inches away from the sway bar and cannot be bolted back together without considerable force to either twist the sway bar or compress the LF spring. Every time you lift only one side of the car and unload the suspension, the sway bar link and sway bar want to be in the position shown in pic 2, but it can't get all the way there because they're bolted together. If you undo the nut holding the joint together in this case and force the stud out with a hammer or other means, you'll not only over-rotate (damage) the ball joint on the link, you'll also likely damage the threads because the two halves of the joint are trying to get back to looking like pic 2. OP, if pic 2 looks like the issue you're having, try either lifting the opposite side of the car (preferred) or compressing the free side of the suspension with a jack until the sway bar link lines up with the sway bar again. From there, make sure both sides of the car are either raised or lowered at the same time to prevent misalignment from happening again when you get to the other corners.
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Last edited by Alpha1BC; 04-15-2019 at 10:30 PM. |
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04-17-2019, 07:56 PM | #11 |
Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 6,808
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All of your points are completely valid and appreciated. No hammering was necessary to remove the end link in question "my way" which may not be ideal or perfect procedure. My posts come across as an arrogant jerk, but I promise my intentions are good. The pinch weld on one side was indeed jacked to remove the end link on one side in my driveway. I may have used a secondary floor jack under the lower control arm to relieve tension. Sorry for the omission of this part of the procedure.
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold) |
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