[Mexok]

Hi, does anyone have a diagram for connecting the entire bose system to the LC7S radio. I want to install a bose system in my camaro 1 LS.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by Mexok

Hi, does anyone have a diagram for connecting the entire bose system to the LC7S radio. I want to install a bose system in my camaro 1 LS.

I have a variety of wiring diagrams for 2022-2024 models, attached is the wiring diagram for the Bose system. You can buy a day subscription to ACDelcoTDS and have access to all of the wiring and disassembly/assembly information you want.

[keep_hope_alive]

Trying to force the Bose system in your car is a terrible idea. For one, it's going to require a lot more cost and effort that you think, since none of the wiring or hardware are compatible. It's simply not worth the effort.

Your time and money is best spent buying aftermarket component speakers and an amplifier for them. An amplifier with high-level inputs will easily integrate into the factory system.

This is a nice option for our car's front doors: https://www.kicker.com/51KSS269
Or you can level-up with the 3-way version: https://www.kicker.com/51KSS369
Then you can power it with this: https://www.kicker.com/key-2004-4-ch...mart-amplifier
You don't really need the rear speakers in the side panels, so you can either bi-amp the components or add a matching set of KS series speakers in the rear.

Add some acoustical treatments in the doors (see my build log for Resonix product usage), and you'll be much happier than anything the retrofit Bose system could do.

[Msquared]

I agree with KHA. The factory Bose system sounds really good, but it's complicated. You'll need the correct factory connectors to get a digital signal from whatever module serves as the source to the Bose amp in the trunk: it does not take analog inputs, and the amp also carries out significant DSP before converting the digital signal to analog. Plus you'd need nine Bose drivers total, with all the wiring required.

FWIW, I used the same Kicker KEY200.4 amp-with-DSP in my Camaro to "bi-amp" better drivers in the dash and doors. That setup uses the amp's DSP to do an active crossover between the door and dash speakers. With its time delays, it does a decent job of imaging; and the EQ allows a good frequency response across almost all of the audible range. I didn't do the sound treatment in the doors KHA did because I didn't want to add mass to my car (I autocross and track it). However, if you don't care about that (or you aren't competing at a national level), then you should...because they make noise!

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by Msquared

I agree with KHA. The factory Bose system sounds really good, but it's complicated. You'll need the correct factory connectors to get a digital signal from whatever module serves as the source to the Bose amp in the trunk: it does not take analog inputs, and the amp also carries out significant DSP before converting the digital signal to analog. Plus you'd need nine Bose drivers total, with all the wiring required.

FWIW, I used the same Kicker KEY200.4 amp-with-DSP in my Camaro to "bi-amp" better drivers in the dash and doors. That setup uses the amp's DSP to do an active crossover between the door and dash speakers. With its time delays and does a decent job of imaging, and the EQ allows a good frequency response across almost all of the audible range. I didn't do the sound treatment in the doors KHA did because I didn't want to add mass to my car (I autocross and track it). However, if you don't care about that (or you aren't competing at a national level), then you should...because they make noise!

Great feedback and info! Good to hear feedback on the KEY200.4.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

Great feedback and info! Good to hear feedback on the KEY200.4.

It's a cheap, easy, and compact way to make a massive difference in sound quality using the front four speakers in a Camaro. There appear to be other options like it out there now, but I don't know if any others have the auto-calibration function that makes this amp so easy to set up. Likewise, there are surely higher-fidelity amps out there, but they cost a lot more. If I really wanted to go next-level in sound quality, I'd probably start with a digital interface to grab the digital signal out of the A11 Radio Module. I'd also probably set up tweeter pods on the dash or pillar, really good and round mids in the doors, and some kind of sub. However, that rabbit hole is like a black hole: it would be easy to spend 10x what I've spent on my setup!

[shoe5163]

https://********.com/Chevrolet-GMC-C...klqaiclm7v9u04