[MarylandSpeed]

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[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Whitemaro6

lol the ZL1 has a a10 in it.

And coming on the SS or so the birdie says (maybe). That will be fast enough for me with E85 and a tune. Mid 11s easy?

[oldman]

Originally Posted by bybcous

How would cutouts add 17 hp? I have the qtp kit in my shed with the the wireless controller, just need to make time to have it installed, and i paid 482 total for my kit with wireless controller @ bowtie rocket

GM rates the standard exhaust and the NPP (factory designed cutouts) at the same HP. We know that with stock header and 4 front cats, any aftermarket exhaust is worth between zero and 5 HP. That should give you a realistic baseline on the 6th gen.

Still heck of cool, and deals with the drone vs loudness problem eh?

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

And coming on the SS or so the birdie says (maybe). That will be fast enough for me with E85 and a tune. Mid 11s easy?

Man a 10 speed auto in a plain SS Yep can't stop progress. I'm sticking to my M6, cause it is the last M6 I'll ever own. I knew it going in (that the M6 is not the street fighting / 1/4 mile trans of choice).

[AndyUK]

Originally Posted by oldman

I think personal install cost varies and is situational. It would be better to leave it off. Even though heads and cam are clearly expensive to install.

Centri is the best but that is 150 HP and 150 torque with no warranty (same goes for any N20 claim). Parts fail at the torque level. I think if one is looking for performance for cheap and wants to drive it, a Centri, especially on a M6 is probably the most expensive mod imaginable over a 100,000 miles driving experience. Even with my projected setup FBO + heads and cam, I'm actively looking for: clutch, drive shaft, half shaft and LSD upgrade and would consider an entire Zl1 diff upgrade.


Partial bolt-ons the 6th gen are already in the 10s. I think PD at this point is merely for bragging rights at the car meet, clearly performance is limited by traction... or lack there of. So really the best bang for the dollar is a set of daily drag radials. Meaning as the Meta sits right now a A8 with FBO and DR is going to be a driver's race with anything that somebody would actually drive on a daily basis.

Car and Driver recently did a test of tires, DR, and slicks on a HellCat and the best they got was low 11s and the car was prepped and driven by competitive 1/4 mile guys.

I'm sorry but cars don't drive themselves, and at this HP level clearly it is more and more a driver's race and the best bet is on the guy with the stickiest set of tires on his "daily driver".


http://blog.caranddriver.com/whats-t...s-to-find-out/

Yeah, I already know they are scrubs and somebody's ma can put a Hellcat into the mid 10s with the same setup. I'm just saying right now A8, FBO, DR ain't losing to anything else on the street in 99.9999% of the potential street fights. Not some make believe TV show like Pinks...


Put it this way, I once said my LS1 has killed every Supra I've ever raced. Sure enough 20 emails and post come in challenging me to a race for somebody or others "daily driver" 1000 HP Supra.
1) Claim I beat every Supra I've raced, is not a claim that my car is faster than all Supras.
2) Note the claim of "daily driver" varies widely and as Hot Rod has shown in the pump gas shootouts going for more than a decade many of these streetable car (an even looser claim), can't even drive a 60 mile test loop before failure.

Yep Centri is great bang, but there are issues with that claim
1) real world performance based on the tires that are actually on the car on a daily basis
2) drivetrain issues over the log run, meaning cheap ain't cheap

Did I run DR on my LS1? yep, have I run DR on some of my other "daily drivers"? yep, do I see DR at the local car meet? yep. How many? About 1% to .1%. So what are the guys with FI doing? Simple hopping they pick on lesser cars and hopping said car does not have a set of DRs under the fenders. Oh and we are not talking 00 rated DR, more like 80 or 100 wear rated Nittos.





Just my .02.

Thanks for the insight. I'm sure some of it will be useful for the guys looking to drag race

It would be interesting to see what results you'd get with H/C and just delete the cats, vs the catless headers you were talking about.

[slick3]

Go Nitrous. Best bang for the buck. Can be taken off the car if needed in an afternoon. Only hard on the car when you want it to be. Untraceable if you do it right.

People are scared of nitrous. If you have a great tune, your car will be fine.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by bybcous

If my total for all my parts and labor to be around 545 hp came out to about 7400, i dont feel that bad no more seeing how the supercharger would have been at least 9000 installed in my area.

no heads?

[bybcous]

Originally Posted by oldman

no heads?

No, but now I'm thinking if I would have did heads I could have had supercharger power from a baby cam, this is unbelievable. I can't wait add e85 and qtp cutouts. Come to find out a big time tuner ed Hutchinson shop is literally across the street from my house and I never knew. He is gonna do my e85 tune in a few weeks after holidays.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by AndyUK

Thanks for the insight. I'm sure some of it will be useful for the guys looking to drag race

It would be interesting to see what results you'd get with H/C and just delete the cats, vs the catless headers you were talking about.

Actually I'm saying the opposite, sans a prep track and slicks, there is no difference in any of these FBO vs Hellcat vs
supercharged SS on the street with the tires that guys have on the street at an legal or reasonable speed. The best driver with DRs should win and everything else is a driver's race.

The cars are getting more powerful but the roads are more congested. Give me a Datsun 510 setup for road racing with twin solex carbs and the traffic of 40 years ago any day.


I loosely speculate the hooker short tubes and 4 cat deletes would yield close to the same HP (say 12 HP) as LT and cat deletes just not as broad and as useful of a powerband. I would have done it that way, but feel I need just a little more in 2nd gear from 4700 to 5500 about 65 MPH to 75 MPH, I feel the car lays down slightly maybe because of the MSD. The LT will be better with headers and cam. Actually the rear cats are straight through and sized at 2 and 3/4 in and out (yes I know the neck down in front to 2.5), so maybe there is no / little restriction on the second set of cats.

If I did not plan do to heads and cam, a very valid option would be:
Hookers ST, all 4 cat delete, crush tube delete, cutouts
ported TB and IM
green filter and cut air box
Tune + E85

Still yielding a nice curve and WAY cheaper. Put it this way car 1 has the above, car two has the above plus LT, MSD, RotoFab. I still think it would be a driver's race. So that is at least $2000 that really is not gonna lead to a blowout.

I will note that Lingenfelter does: Tune, cam, heads and green filter. They have a customer base laying down hard cash on the combo.

[BowtieRocket]

Originally Posted by oldman

like to see a write up... I like the idea! I don't know how hard it is to weld in and fix the crush on the pipe. My welding sucks bad.

Originally Posted by bybcous

How would cutouts add 17 hp? I have the qtp kit in my shed with the the wireless controller, just need to make time to have it installed, and i paid 482 total for my kit with wireless controller @ bowtie rocket

I havent seen a write up, but there is that video i posted along with another company that claims the same increase.

As far as price, im going off current pricing for the 2016 aggresser version along with wireless kit, turn downs and gaskets. Waiting to see Phastek's pricing and support them with my biz. There are universal kits offered by QTP for less.

[bybcous]

Originally Posted by BowtieRocket

I havent seen a write up, but there is that video i posted along with another company that claims the same increase.

As far as price, im going off current pricing for the 2016 aggresser version along with wireless kit, turn downs and gaskets. Waiting to see Phastek's pricing and support them with my biz. There are universal kits offered by QTP for less.

That is thr kit I have, i called and ordered. From qtp on backfriday, if it's really that much hp, then i need to get those installed.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by oldman

Man a 10 speed auto in a plain SS Yep can't stop progress. I'm sticking to my M6, cause it is the last M6 I'll ever own. I knew it going in (that the M6 is not the street fighting / 1/4 mile trans of choice).

Yea, I don't know if I can give up the Manual either. And maybe the last hi-po car for me too. I own it and would hate to start over. The SS is an amazing performance car. Of course better versions will come out, but maybe amazing is good enough.

If only the wife would want a 10 speed SS or ZL1. But she is thinking more ES350 for grand child car seats. Although she does love banging the gears once in a while.

Back to topic. Having added FI to a car just so I have done it once, my opinion is definitely not bang for the buck. It's a whole lotta bang and a whole lotta cash to do it right. I think for a number of reasons you are better off with a ZL1 and you would like your ZL1 more than an FIed SS. I tried both ways. I enjoyed my ZL1 more than my much faster twin turbo 1LE. I had more $$ in the 1LE. So buying a ZL1 is the better bang for the buck option if you want FI IMHO.

[oldman]

Atleast you started with 1LE with basicly a ZL1 DRIVEtrain...The bang for buck posters here dont have any idea how iffy this car gets with FI and / or N2O

[EFI Tuning]

Originally Posted by slick3

Go Nitrous. Best bang for the buck. Can be taken off the car if needed in an afternoon. Only hard on the car when you want it to be. Untraceable if you do it right.

People are scared of nitrous. If you have a great tune, your car will be fine.

You are correct. Nitrous issues are usually the result of people not understanding what they are dealing. Nitrous is not any more risky than FI. Stay conservative on the shot and the tune. Also, utilize the failsafes. I think bolt-ons, E85, and a 150 shot would be awesome on this engine.