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Old 04-25-2016, 12:40 PM   #141
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Just an FYI - at least once a week I get a PM or call, and the person says the Rinseless is "streaky" or leaves a film. Done right, rinseless leaves NOTHING (visible) on the surface. If this is happening, you used too much. You can't just "open the bottle and pour a slug in" as one person told me....Rinseless is very concentrated, and for example on the Duragloss, you only need 1- 1.5 oz in a bucket of water. If it leaves a film on the windows, use less. Dawn wash it all off and start over.

Remember the two biggest mistakes you can make in detailing, is not following the directions, and using too much...

BTW, as I like true optical clarity, I don't use Rinseless on the windows, just a good glass cleaner like Diamondite or Stoners...
Hi Glen,

Can you please tell the concentration of aquawax you use while drying after a rinsless wash.
I think I may be using too much aquawax.

Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:22 PM   #142
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One spritz per panel, two on the hood, etc, if it's not wiping perfectly clean as you dry and there's any smearing it all, you used too much...

And remember aquawax as a drying agent is only once every third or fourth rinseless wash, not every time

The polymers in all the sealants and rinseless products are microscopic, you don't have to see them going on, and that's why people use too much.....

Last edited by Glen e; 04-25-2016 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:46 PM   #143
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One spritz per panel, two on the hood, etc, if it's not wiping perfectly clean as you dry and there's any smearing it all, you used too much...

And remember aquawax as a drying agent is only once every third or fourth rinseless wash, not every time
Thanks!

Do you mix it with water to form a solution or use it directly?
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:48 PM   #144
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How do you clean your wheels when using the rinseless method? Im sure you dont want to use the same MF towels for the wheels that you do for the paint surfaces.
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:48 PM   #145
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Tushar:

Please read my documents, you apply directly while it's wet ,that's why it comes in a spray bottle.

When a question is this basic I'm really not sure where you're coming from. Have you done it? Read the label?
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:50 PM   #146
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How do you clean your wheels when using the rinseless method? Im sure you dont want to use the same MF towels for the wheels that you do for the paint surfaces.
Here is where the cheap ass Cosco towels work great… Yes I use rinseless on the wheels, but a whole different towel.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:03 PM   #147
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Here is where the cheap ass Cosco towels work great… Yes I use rinseless on the wheels, but a whole different towel.
Thanks Glen...U Rock
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Old 04-25-2016, 03:44 PM   #148
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Quote:
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Tushar:

Please read my documents, you apply directly while it's wet ,that's why it comes in a spray bottle.

When a question is this basic I'm really not sure where you're coming from. Have you done it? Read the label?
Hi Glen,

Thanks for the info!
I got confused because I have got the gallon can for both rinseless and aquawax.
So was not sure if i can start using the aquawax directly without diluting it with water.

Will do now

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Old 04-25-2016, 04:18 PM   #149
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Hi Glen,

Thanks for the info!
I got confused because I have got the gallon can for both rinseless and aquawax.
So was not sure if i can start using the aquawax directly without diluting it with water.

Will do now

Yeah, just get a spray bottle for the AW from Lowes.
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:45 AM   #150
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I just can't get myself to use rinseless, except for cleaning a fresh bird bomb or fresh bug splatter.

I watched Gary Dean's "Perfect Wash" video on you tube, and as soon as he said "I'm not worried about swirling the paint because it's easy to fix" I turned it off.

Having spent over 20 hours on my initial correction, the last thing I want to do is swirl the paint again.

I have found using a foam gun first, provides great lubrication. The Gilmour
Bunny K foamaster is great, and it's only $27 on Amazon. Others charge $60-$100 for a foam gun.

Then 2 bucket wash with a quality soap, using a Microfiber Madness Incredimitt, rinse, then a pooling rinse. 1 or 2 mists of detail spray per panel, and dry with Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy or Waverider towel for weekly washes prevents swirls from coming back, I haven't had any for 2 years using this method.

I don't like traditional waffle weave towels, they tend to become rough after several washes, even if left to air dry after washing in the machine. The only exception I've found is the Microfiber Madness Waverider, it's 530 GSM, and retains softness much longer.

My car is an un-garaged daily driver, I guess if it were a garage queen, I'd feel more comfortable with rinseless.
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Old 05-07-2016, 09:28 AM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
I just can't get myself to use rinseless, except for cleaning a fresh bird bomb or fresh bug splatter.

I watched Gary Dean's "Perfect Wash" video on you tube, and as soon as he said "I'm not worried about swirling the paint because it's easy to fix" I turned it off.

Having spent over 20 hours on my initial correction, the last thing I want to do is swirl the paint again.

I have found using a foam gun first, provides great lubrication. The Gilmour
Bunny K foamaster is great, and it's only $27 on Amazon. Others charge $60-$100 for a foam gun.

Then 2 bucket wash with a quality soap, using a Microfiber Madness Incredimitt, rinse, then a pooling rinse. 1 or 2 mists of detail spray per panel, and dry with Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy or Waverider towel for weekly washes prevents swirls from coming back, I haven't had any for 2 years using this method.

I don't like traditional waffle weave towels, they tend to become rough after several washes, even if left to air dry after washing in the machine. The only exception I've found is the Microfiber Madness Waverider, it's 530 GSM, and retains softness much longer.

My car is an un-garaged daily driver, I guess if it were a garage queen, I'd feel more comfortable with rinseless.
I felt the same way, I have been rinsless the last 3 mos, not a single swirl. Only time my foam gun comes out is on a filthy car.
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Old 05-07-2016, 09:29 AM   #152
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And that's why were able to make individual choices, to each his own as they say, in three years of using rinselessI've never marred or scratched a car. Not with a loaded sopping wet microfiber across the surface. Now waterless is a whole different situation, and I won't do that on a car, not enough lubricity....
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Old 05-07-2016, 10:05 AM   #153
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If done properly, rinseless is awesome and very hard to scratch. Now if the car is filthy, it needs to be rinsed off or at the very least taken to a touchless to rinse off dirt.
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Old 05-07-2016, 10:32 AM   #154
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If done properly, rinseless is awesome and very hard to scratch. Now if the car is filthy, it needs to be rinsed off or at the very least taken to a touchless to rinse off dirt.
Many of those touchless car washes use aggressive cleaners that can strip your protection (wax or sealant).

I'd like to see a panel on a car that was done with rinseless only for a year, in direct sunlight, or with a swirl finder light, on an un-garaged daily driver.

Preferably one that had been corrected prior to the process.

I just can't believe it's as safe as 2 bucket w/foam gun.

This is my most recent pic of my paint using foam/gun 2 bucket method after over a year of washes.

No swirls, no spider scratches, only paint defect is factory orange peel.




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