[AxiomVerge]

I finally got my Maggie installed and it's been dynoed at 583 whp. I still have the stock wheels and tires and want to upgrade to something that can handle it without going sideways.


For tires:
I probably won't drag race, but I live in a desert so summer only tires are fine. It's not a daily driver, but it would be good if they could handle occasional rain.

My tuner suggests Mickey Thompson drag radials. But I'm not informed enough to know whether these are good outside of the track (on which my convertible wouldn't be allowed anyway).

I know the ZL1 uses Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercars, and the ZL1 1LE uses F1 Supercar 3R tires, so that seems like a good bet to me, but if there is something better I'm all for it.


For wheels:
Wondering if anyone has opinions on whether 19" or 20" is better. I figure the ZL1 1LE went to 19" for a reason. I'd like to get wider than stock wheels, at least for looks.

Had my eyes on the Rohana RFX10, though it's only in 20": https://n4sm.com/catalog/product/vie...ck/category/7/

Thanks in advance.

[Sunsnare98]

Originally Posted by AxiomVerge

I finally got my Maggie installed and it's been dynoed at 583 whp. I still have the stock wheels and tires and want to upgrade to something that can handle it without going sideways.


For tires:
I probably won't drag race, but I live in a desert so summer only tires are fine. It's not a daily driver, but it would be good if they could handle occasional rain.

My tuner suggests Mickey Thompson drag radials. But I'm not informed enough to know whether these are good outside of the track (on which my convertible wouldn't be allowed anyway).

I know the ZL1 uses Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercars, and the ZL1 1LE uses F1 Supercar 3R tires, so that seems like a good bet to me, but if there is something better I'm all for it.


For wheels:
Wondering if anyone has opinions on whether 19" or 20" is better. I figure the ZL1 1LE went to 19" for a reason. I'd like to get wider than stock wheels, at least for looks.

Had my eyes on the Rohana RFX10, though it's only in 20": https://n4sm.com/catalog/product/vie...ck/category/7/

Thanks in advance.

Try the Mickey Thompson baha claw.

[TJay74]

20x11 rear and 20x10 front are about as wide as you can get, you can run the 1LE/ZL1 tire sizes with no issues. Personally I wouldnt run anything Mickey Thompson related as a daily driver tire, they are designed and marketed more as a drag racing tire.

The ZL1 1LE did go with 19" wheels for a reason, to drop weight. Tire wise any of the GY Supercar F1 gen 3 tires would be an option along with the Michelin MP4S or the Continental Extreme Contact tires.

[LesBaer]

I've been running the same size as the ZL1 with Forgeline wheels. I started out at your power level with Pilot Super Sports on 20x10, 20x11's. The car handled great and hooked with minimal wheel spin. It was completely manageable though and I was getting 0-60 acceleration times around 3.7, 3.8 I remember and they lasted a long time with pin point control. I added power and tried a few things that you've mentioned, so here's my 2 cents.

Wheel Hop
If you floor it and haven't changed the rear trailing arms out to the BMR parts (they include the bushings), you're going to get wheel hop. This should be at the top of your list to do. The GM upper and lower trailing arms are a joke.

Wheel size
The car was designed for 20" wheels in a staggered setup, so with a road tire, the suspension is expecting to see that. I don't think a 19" is going to upset things much but I'm not an expert. I think a 19" square setup will be different though and you'd want to address the suspension.

Mickey Thompsons
If you've never run drag radials before and want the car to handle, you're not going to like these. They're good for DR's, but you're going to need to deflate them below 28psi. The car will feel "swimmy" during lane changes is the best way I can describe it. I've got them on now with Michelin Pilot Super Sports up front. I've upped my boost and the car rips with them on from a dig or while moving. Just be ready to lose a lot of the pin point control at speed.

Also, I never drive in the rain but got stuck in a down pour once with them on. It was like driving on an ice covered road. If it's drizzling and you drive conservatively, you'll be fine. Any type of standing water, literally not even a puddle but just a wet road, and I'd suggest pulling over or crawling with your hazzards on.

They're great tires for what they are, but just make sure you realize that you've specialized your car now with them on. At your power level, you don't need them either. If you're going to go this route, I would suggest getting a smaller wheel. I did it just to try them. They're fun to play with or take to the strip but you've got better options since there are plenty of good road tire options that will hook below 600rwhp.

People also say your mileage will vary, but don't expect much if you drive them on the street. They're made to last on the track and the road will eat them up. I've got about 3k miles on mine and they're still fine.

Road Tires
Read up on the ratings for tread-wear, traction, etc. and don't focus so much on people's reviews on websites. I haven't tried the F1's but they're probably the best value and were designed for the car. I had Pilot Super Sports and loved them, but they're better tires for people in the northeast. They heat up quick so you can run them in colder weather. They're great for cold spring or fall morning/nights. I'm sure they'd be fine for you but some have said the original Sport Cups over heat on the track. I don't track my car.

Personally, I'm going with Sport Cup 2's when my Mickey's wear out. At my power they're the best road tire that will hook...not expecting 1st gear WOT, but 2nd gear I may be ok. I've had my fun playing around with DR's and can't wait to get rid of them. It's not that they're bad, but I'd rather have something on the car the excels 90% of the time vs. 10%.

Couple edits -
- My MT's were MT Street SS
- Wheels are real forged wheels, which are expensive but there's one real forged wheel that you'll see a bunch of people here have that's a lot more affordable. The GM 1LE wheels are real forged wheels but weigh 10lbs more per wheel than mine and the other one I was referring to (sorry forget the name) at the same size. This thread will probably be spammed by various psuedo-forged wheel vendors...try to get independent feedback from someone who's hit a pot-hole or hit something hard enough to ruin a wheel if you go that route.

[PK Auto Design]

It all depends on what your budget is

For instance we just completed a 19x10.5/11.5 BC Forged setup with 305/325 tires and it works fine.

You can do 20" wheels as well but if you do a 305/35 tire it rubs the inner fender linear so a wire harness relocation is needed.

[AxiomVerge]

Thanks everyone for the great advice. Even the guy who recommended new tires for my Jeep :-) So one thing that is steering me away from the Michelin's is this quote from Motortrend:

Two dirty, poorly kept secrets about Sport Cup 2s: You get one “hero lap,” as Corvette engineer Jim Mero refers to it. After that first extra-special lap, performance falls off. Also, as Tobias Moers, the head of AMG, told me after gloating about the fact that he is slapping Corvette-spec Cup 2s (1416) on the new GT R, “One drop of rain, and you’re done.” As a result, Goodyear was tasked with developing a tire that won’t quit after one lap and that will get you home from the track should it rain. The ZL1 1LE rolls on massive 305/30ZR19 fronts and 325/30ZR19 rears.

So I'm leaning heavily to the Goodyear tires since they are more general purpose. Just I don't see the 3R tires for sale yet so I guess it's just non-R for now.

[LesBaer]

Originally Posted by AxiomVerge

Thanks everyone for the great advice. Even the guy who recommended new tires for my Jeep :-) So one thing that is steering me away from the Michelin's is this quote from Motortrend:




So I'm leaning heavily to the Goodyear tires since they are more general purpose. Just I don't see the 3R tires for sale yet so I guess it's just non-R for now.

Think about what you're going to be doing in the car. You bought a convertible so I'm assuming you're not tracking it. Cup 2's come stock on every high performance car from exotics on down the line. I've owned Super Sports, but haven't tried Sport Cup 2's yet personally. I wanted to try a set next but may try the F1's if they can grip at power levels above a stock ZL1. Until I experience a Goodyear tire outperform a Michelin on the street, I'll have my doubts. If you're not going to track it, you don't have to worry about overheating them. You can't go wrong with either honestly. Go with the F1's if that's what your gut is telling you. The rain isn't an issue for me but it may be for you. R888's are loud, have been known to chunk and are also terrible in the rain so I'd vote those 3rd.

You might already know this stuff so I apologize if this is old news. If you're driving at a high rate of speed and hit a pothole in the road, especially with a low profile tire, the impact on the wheel will be great enough to cause damage regardless of the type of wheel. Even if the tire doesn't blow out, you want the wheel to bend, not shatter or have a chunk of it break off. The same impact at 50 and 150 will lead to two very different outcomes. If it breaks apart and you're doing 150, you'll lose it and no one's going to care what your budget is then.

You also don't patch a Z rated tire for the same reason. Even though it'll still feel like it's working the same way as it did before, the chances of it blowing out are much greater. It's no longer got a valid Z speed rating. If it's just about looks and general handling or you don't care, you can save a few bucks.

They put 19" wheels on the ZL1 1LE because it's a track car. A smaller wheel means it has a shorter rotation and will usually also be lighter. If you jump down to something really small, your speedometer won't be accurate but 1" shouldn't make much of difference. Moving the wire harness is no big deal either btw.

[Sunsnare98]

Originally Posted by AxiomVerge

Thanks everyone for the great advice. Even the guy who recommended new tires for my Jeep :-) So one thing that is steering me away from the Michelin's is this quote from Motortrend:




So I'm leaning heavily to the Goodyear tires since they are more general purpose. Just I don't see the 3R tires for sale yet so I guess it's just non-R for now.

Haha 😂 I was searching for monster truck tires and that's what I got from my google search.

[AxiomVerge]

Originally Posted by LesBaer

You might already know this stuff so I apologize if this is old news. If you're driving at a high rate of speed and hit a pothole in the road, especially with a low profile tire, the impact on the wheel will be great enough to cause damage regardless of the type of wheel. Even if the tire doesn't blow out, you want the wheel to bend, not shatter or have a chunk of it break off. The same impact at 50 and 150 will lead to two very different outcomes. If it breaks apart and you're doing 150, you'll lose it and no one's going to care what your budget is then.

You also don't patch a Z rated tire for the same reason. Even though it'll still feel like it's working the same way as it did before, the chances of it blowing out are much greater. It's no longer got a valid Z speed rating. If it's just about looks and general handling or you don't care, you can save a few bucks.

Thanks, I will not track the car but I do want it to handle well when I have the opportunity to get on it, for instance accelerating on the highway on ramp or curving around an empty canyon road. My instinct is that rotary forged would be "enough".

To that end I'm also curious about how width will affect things. I know the 1LE is 10" front and 11" in back. I assume it matters more for the rear tires. But would it be better to go narrower in front?

[Chevy71]

At my power level the F1's were terrible and crap in the rain. I'm running the extremecontact sports now and they have been great. The best tire, of this nature, that I have ever ran in the rain and they hook decent for what they are. Granted, nothing in this tire class hooks up in low gears under high throttle % with big horsepower builds. I can tell you I have no issues with wheel hop when I do nail it in 1st or 2nd, and WOT yields no wheel hop. The M/T drag radial like LesBaer mentioned will hook up, but it's far from a street tire and has a lot of flex, not to mention a treadwear rating of 100. So it's good for 5,000 miles give or take based on driving style.

[AxiomVerge]

Originally Posted by Chevy71

At my power level the F1's were terrible and crap in the rain. I'm running the extremecontact sports now and they have been great. The best tire, of this nature, that I have ever ran in the rain and they hook decent for what they are. Granted, nothing in this tire class hooks up in low gears under high throttle % with big horsepower builds. I can tell you I have no issues with wheel hop when I do nail it in 1st or 2nd, and WOT yields no wheel hop. The M/T drag radial like LesBaer mentioned will hook up, but it's far from a street tire and has a lot of flex, not to mention a treadwear rating of 100. So it's good for 5,000 miles give or take based on driving style.

In dry weather did you prefer the F1s or the continentals?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

[LesBaer]

I was at 565rwhp (conservative dyno) when I noticed the wheel hop while launching and other people have had the same thing happen after supercharging. You don't have that problem Chevy71 because you have a Procharger. All your power comes on when you're already moving at speed. A person with a positive displacement blower is going to have a lot more power delivered immediately when they hit the gas vs. you that will see more top end. The wheel hop will only happen at launch.

I was just telling you (the OP) about the wheel stuff so you know and are careful choosing where you decide to get on it. Nobody really talks about anything except weight. I remember what it was like after I first got mine. The car gets up to 125 in a blink of an eye and will keep going if you let it...just don't want to see you on the news

I'm glad I saw what he said above about the F1's. I didn't think they'd work over 600rwhp. If he can't hook with a Pro Charger setup at launch, that confirms it for me. The only non-drag radial tire that I've ever heard of hooking with a 700rwhp+ car in lower gears is the Sport Cup 2. 2nd gear was the best it could do on a CTS-V.

[Chevy71]

Originally Posted by AxiomVerge

In dry weather did you prefer the F1s or the continentals?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Continental hands down.. it's a much better tire all around. I can't think of any area the F1's out performs the extremecontact sports. There are other Conti's that may not be as good as the F1's.

[Chevy71]

LesBaer, Your comments are certainly fair and true. Wheel hop can become an issue easy with any car, especially with IRS. It has been my experience that if you get into a slight HP gain wheel hop gets real bad, but if you have the power to drive through the traction your tires try to get it won't hop. I could be wrong. I never had the wheel hop issue with the ctsV or my Z06 though. The V was obviously a roots style but ran 821hp, the Z was N/A and it was low 700's HP.

I certainly understand the power curve difference, which is part of why I went with a centrifugal set up this time. The F1's sucked though! From a dig, or dropping into 3rd on a hwy punch it would spin. Hell a hard shift above 100mph going from 3rd to 4h it would spin. Not chirp, full on spin lol. The PSS' were good for me, these Conti's are close maybe slightly better. Ive never ran the cup2's or the PS4's so I can't comment how they do. I would certainly avoid the F1's. That's my opinion and experience though. With my current set up I'm just shy of 700hp, with race fuel and some timing changes I putting down low 700's and they don't hook at launch. I also start making boost at 2,200rpm though and launch between 3,000-idle trying to prevent spinning lol.

Originally Posted by LesBaer

I was at 565rwhp (conservative dyno) when I noticed the wheel hop while launching and other people have had the same thing happen after supercharging. You don't have that problem Chevy71 because you have a Procharger. All your power comes on when you're already moving at speed. A person with a positive displacement blower is going to have a lot more power delivered immediately when they hit the gas vs. you that will see more top end. The wheel hop will only happen at launch.

I was just telling you (the OP) about the wheel stuff so you know and are careful choosing where you decide to get on it. Nobody really talks about anything except weight. I remember what it was like after I first got mine. The car gets up to 125 in a blink of an eye and will keep going if you let it...just don't want to see you on the news

I'm glad I saw what he said above about the F1's. I didn't think they'd work over 600rwhp. If he can't hook with a Pro Charger setup at launch, that confirms it for me. The only non-drag radial tire that I've ever heard of hooking with a 700rwhp+ car in lower gears is the Sport Cup 2. 2nd gear was the best it could do on a CTS-V.