[Cjkuhlenbeck]

Hey everyone,

I purchased a new SS a few weeks ago, and traded in my older Gen5. I pulled the subwoofer from the old one since it didn't really change the value (so may as well keep it!). I'm preparing to install it tomorrow with my days off work, but before I make the jump I wanted to make sure I have the right information. I've been browsing this forum for information on the install for a few weeks as well, so I just want to clarify a bit of information. Sorry if any of this sounds a bit "newbie". I've installed full audio systems in cars, but in cars I don't care about as much So I want to make sure I have this right:

1. Where are the good grounds on the car? Should I make my own? I saw some threads suggested just using the negative on the battery, but I heard that was bad for some reason. Is the negative okay, or should I use a different point?

2.I have the bose system with the diagonal fins. Just to check, I wiretap the 1/5 wires (left) from the black plug (image link), and the 8/16 wires (right) on the green plug (image link), correct?

3. I have the subwoofer, the amp, and an "LC2i" (going to try to avoid using this if I can) pulled from the last install. Do I need anything else? I've seen some threads using a digital component from focal named a "DSP"? I did quite a bit of googling on Digital Sound Processors, but haven't really gotten an answer. Some say it's needed since the Bose amp is digital. Some say it's not because the signal from the amp is analog.

Any help is appreciated. I don't want to mess anything up so I figured who better to ask then you guys! Thanks in advance for any replies, and apologies in advance if these questions are dumb

[Ryephile]

Ground is ground, unless there is a DC offset. There are a bunch of lugs under the trunk carpet for connecting ground wire ring terminals, but you can also hook up to the battery if it's convenient.

I don't have the Bose so I can't help you with the rest.

[tecboy]

you want to use the 2/6 and 3/7 (front door speakers) as your feed for your sub amp....If your amp will accept high level inputs...you may be ok not using the LC2i...but since you already have it...you might as well use it....

I did an entire Bose system upgrade..my installer tapped both + and - at the battery terminals in the trunk

[Cjkuhlenbeck]

Thanks for the responses guys. I feel a lot better now. As for the LC2i tecboy, I dont mind it so much, but it's just more wires that I'd rather not have. I needed it in the last Camaro though as the signal wasn't strong enough for the auto turn on for the amp. It's a JL Audio 600/1v3. Pairing it with my older JL Audio 12w6v3d4 (who comes up with these model names?). Anyways, hoping I don't need it so I can skip running those wires, but may need to if it has the same issue.

I still don't have a great box, just using the "cube" default one designed for the subwoofer. I've been searching for a good box to use, but I want something that fits well with the car. The few manufacturers i've found that make car specific boxes seem to only do 2 subs. This one is more than enough for me. Gen6's are still pretty new though, so hopefully more will come to market as time goes on.

[tecboy]

i know the outputs of the Bose amp are differential type outputs...if i recall...some had issues tapping an amp off of them....vs using some sort of line processor...

i think someone has a single sub box that fits in the left hand side of the trunk...behind the trim panel...not sure...might want to do a search...i know s**bth**mp has a single sub version of the sub box i have...

here is my system
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497975

[Cjkuhlenbeck]

I love your setup, and would kill to do something like that. I'm not capable of doing something that good lol Also I see you used a DSP as well. Was that just since you replaced all the other speakers as well? Would I need or have any improved audio for just a sub?

[tecboy]

you have to use a dsp with an entire bose upgrade....each channel is eq'ed, delayed and crossed over at different points...the dsp "fixes" all that and hands off a normal signal..i dont know how many hours i have in to tweaking the 1/3 octave eq in the 3sixty.3....i spent way more than i ever planned...95% of the time it sounds good...the other 5%...i swear the bose amp is changing the output signal the rockford 3 sixty.3 see's...like i said...do some searching in the audio section...a few have done complete systems...using various DSP processors....some are happy with just adding a sub to the bose system...i wanted more "horsepower" along with the additional sub bass...

[wal-dog]

Cjkuhlenbeck you have everything you need. Get to work.

[Cjkuhlenbeck]

Well, I didn't make it very far. Wanted to seat the amp in the compartment below the trunk liner, but after removing the molded plastic/Styrofoam piece it in, I realized there were bolts there to hold that piece there. Doesn't seem like they're removable, so i'd either have to dremel them off, or build a shelf of some sort for the amp to sit on. I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible since the car is under bumper to bumper. So that knocks out dremeling anything in the car. I guess i'm back to the drawing board for now until I find a solution for burying the amp. I think there may be some space behind the left sidewall I can hide the amp, but will have to wait until my next days off. :(

[Gutling]

I cut out a square piece of mdf, then cut holes in it for the trunk well studs and sat it down over them, used the factory plastic nuts to hold mdf down, and mounted amp to mdf. that way i can remove in 3 seconds if trading in or something.

Pictures in my thread
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495533

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by Gutling

I cut out a square piece of mdf, then cut holes in it for the trunk well studs and sat it down over them, used the factory plastic nuts to hold mdf down, and mounted amp to mdf. that way i can remove in 3 seconds if trading in or something.

Pictures in my thread
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495533

What did you use for your remote turn on for your amp?

[Gutling]

I used an amp that has remote sensing automatic turn-on when using speaker-level inputs. So don't have to use a signal wire.

[TJay74]

Thank you. I tried that on the Kicker amp I am using, they require a 5v offset and the Camaro radio on shows around a 2v offset so it isn't enough to trip the voltage sensing turn on.

[Ecchi667]

My control wire runs into the fuse port for the wireless phone charger (fuse box is in the trunk). Turns on and off with the ignition button - no issues as yet, been running a tube sub/amp combo like that for a few months now, ground wire under the rear passenger bench. RMS around 600watts I think. Charger still works fine, too.

You'll need to disconnect the noise cancellation mics. One of the plugs in the factory amp controls them. Initially, just unplug it. You'll lose your rear parking sensor, door chimes, etc. Once you have your amp and sub working as you want it, remove three of the four wires from that plug (one will stand out as different from the others - I think it's the one furthest toward the rear of the car when plugged in, but don't recall for certain). You can then plug that back in and get your sensors/chimes back, but now the mics and crank sensor won't send silly noises through your sub.

My sub is tapped into the rear shelf speakers, at the speakers themselves. One wire to the positive side of the right speaker, the other to the negative side of the left speaker (if I remember correctly). Seems to work - I'm sure it's far from the best way, but it was initially a temporary measure. It's worked well enough that I haven't bothered to mess with it since, though. I used a LOC initially also, but can't say I noticed any benefit. May try tapping to the front door speakers at some point out of curiosity, but can't say there's a desperate need for it - the truck is definitely thumping as it is now.