[fzr100098]

Keep an eye on your oil temps next time, note how long it takes to get to temp (at least 160-180 F), even with higher ambient temps. Driving this car in winter sounds like a formula for excessive wear, since the oil will never get up to temp with short trips (say 15 min)

Applaud Chevy for the extra oil cooling capacity for track use, but wondering about long term effects for short street commutes

Every time someone gets in their car and floors it out of the parking lot I cringe, even with the gimmicky "0W-30" oils - inevitably those cars have serious blow-by issues before long

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by fzr100098

Keep an eye on your oil temps next time, note how long it takes to get to temp (at least 160-180 F), even with higher ambient temps. Driving this car in winter sounds like a formula for excessive wear, since the oil will never get up to temp with short trips (say 15 min)

Applaud Chevy for the extra oil cooling capacity for track use, but wondering about long term effects for short street commutes

Every time someone gets in their car and floors it out of the parking lot I cringe, even with the gimmicky "0W-30" oils - inevitably those cars have serious blow-by issues before long

Let me ask what may be a dumb question: Isn't the circulation of coolant controlled such that the engine will come up to temp?

[myold88]

Originally Posted by Emoto

Let me ask what may be a dumb question: Isn't the circulation of coolant controlled such that the engine will come up to temp?

It is but a long time mechanic once told me that one of the worst things
you can do to an internal combustion engine is start it up. That's why in
the winter if your not planning to drive your car, just let it sit. Guys who
go out and start their cars for 20 minutes while stored are doing more
harm than good imo.

[fzr100098]

Originally Posted by Emoto

Let me ask what may be a dumb question: Isn't the circulation of coolant controlled such that the engine will come up to temp?

Two separate things - engine oil temp is far more critical, but most people just look at their water temp gauge before nailing it.

[fzr100098]

Originally Posted by myold88

It is but a long time mechanic once told me that one of the worst things you can do to an internal combustion engine is start it up.

The primary reason excessive wear occurs after start-up is because people jump in their car and gun it out of the lot/driveway - how many times do you see this every day?

There is a moron at my office that floors it out of the lot every day just so everyone can hear him, I hope his pos Mustang GT blows up honestly

Modern synthetics are so good I think the start-up wear fear mongering is overblown, there is essentially no stress on the motor idling in the driveway, it's the heavy foot when the oil is cold that's the problem

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by fzr100098

Two separate things - engine oil temp is far more critical, but most people just look at their water temp gauge before nailing it.

Yes, but from water temp, can we not make decisions about how warm the oil may be, in terms of reaching operating temp?

[fzr100098]

Originally Posted by Emoto

Yes, but from water temp, can we not make decisions about how warm the oil may be, in terms of reaching operating temp?

They are only indirectly related - use the oil temp gauge in the "tech" setting on the dash. Coolant warms up much faster (because of the thermostat)

[jwober]

Originally Posted by fzr100098

The primary reason excessive wear occurs after start-up is because people jump in their car and gun it out of the lot/driveway - how many times do you see this every day?

There is a moron at my office that floors it out of the lot every day just so everyone can hear him, I hope his pos Mustang GT blows up honestly

+1 In my case its a Gen5 V6 with open pipes.

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by fzr100098

They are only indirectly related - use the oil temp gauge in the "tech" setting on the dash. Coolant warms up much faster (because of the thermostat)

Yes, understood that it is indirect. There's an oil temp gauge???? Awesome! I will look for setting that up in the manual.

What should the normal operating temperature be for the oil? (might be a range?)

[BMR Suspension]

If you're that worried about the oil being cold, put an oil heater in. They are pretty cheap and really simple to install.

http://archeat.com/index.php?route=p...product_id=214

[dpevans]

There have been way too many studies and too many opinions on when to start driving after starting. The best theory and the one that I believe being the owner of a Northstar all aluminum motor with 242k, (and being on the Caddy forums for years) and a new Camaro 3.6 is you do more harm letting the car sit and idle. Once you start the motor and you have oil pressure you can start driving, be it sensible and no excessive RPMs. This is the quickest way to get your aluminum motor, rings, valves, and all other parts up to operational temperature. Oil is designed to work at extremely high and low temperatures and as long as you are putting the correct oil in the car you should have no problems. That's the beauty of fuel injection, you don't need to let the carburetor choke system get up to temperature to get the correct fuel air ratio into the motor. I think that's why us old schoolers had to warm up the engine in the old days.

[mt3130]

I typically turn my car on, wait for the RPMs to level off (usually 15-30 seconds), then pull away, keeping RPMs down for the first several minutes of the drive until everything is up to operating temps.