[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

My theory is that maybe there was some aeration in the oil and even without a noticeable drop in pressure you still have insufficient lubrication. This is my theory based on absolutely no research into that specifically. If it was an anomaly that these engines fail it'd be a very different approach for me, but it's not, and they do fail. And a dry sump is better than a wet sump, and that's not really debatable. There's a reason no race team chooses a wet sump and it's not only about mounting the engine lower.

I remember how violent Solo2 can be from my years of chasing the Trans-Louisiana-Autocross Challenge (TLAC) and our courses were mocked as Solo1.5 for the speeds we were reaching at places like Belle Chase with a stop-box and a thrash to the finish using old aircraft runways & taxiways for a course that often was a mile or more! Back then we ran a huge Accusump to remove the aeration of the oil.

Today, I do a lot of tracking at Road Atlanta, VIR and Barber that have elevation changes with the potential to slosh 10-quarts of oil in a pan quite violently. It was with this issue, I designed my oil cooler system using the Porsche RSR crossflow cooler which adds two more quarts of oil to the quantity but this flow of oil is coming straight from the pump, is mounted higher than the engine and in application removes any chance for aerated oil to reach the filter and thus the oil galleries. I am still on the OEM pump at 37k miles total and logging 14,750 track miles now without any failures of any kind... not even a misfire!

I would definitely build a dry sump system for my car as they help increase power, reliability but do come at a significant cost of operation and maintenance. Whether or not you follow your heart and build a most incredible Dry Sump Solo2 Championship winning car... I agree it is a path I will also embark upon. Right now I have conquered the oil cooler system and now working on the closed catch can system for the LT4/LT1 engines.

See the photo below... in any design you build the Dry Sump, you will need a proven oil cooler setup. With that incredible Katech engine, my design will be a benefit you will most definitely realize upon using. I would also use Banks Power's analog sensor to CAN adapter with an oil pressure sensor tapped into the back of the block on both sides to see if you are getting any drop in pressures across the system. It can identify if and where you might be having aeration due to bad casting in the block or design of the system. I did so with temp sending units in the development of the cooling systems.

[Baddawg53]

That cooler setup is pretty great. I'm considering adding a 2nd cooler in the rear of the car with a fan seeing as I'll most likely need to mount the oil tank in the trunk.

Still a lot to figure out and design, but the only real answer I still need is what I need to do after the OEM oil pump is removed and leaves the port open that goes through the timing chain tensioner up to the camshaft?I believe it is the VVT feed?

[Katech_Mike]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

Oh buddy!!! Now I definitely wanna do this! Beautiful work there! Great to know that Dailey system works in there. This is definitely the direction I'll go.

Did you just delete the oil pump? Did you plug the port that goes through the timing chain tensioner? It's the only aspect I've yet to figure out how it works. I believe it is the feed to the camshaft and the vvt?

You have to remove the factory oil pump. You do have to plug the hole behind the timing chain tensioner. You also have to plug the hole to the right of that where the factory oil pump feeds the block since you're now feeding it externally.

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by Katech_Mike

You have to remove the factory oil pump. You do have to plug the hole behind the timing chain tensioner. You also have to plug the hole to the right of that where the factory oil pump feeds the block since you're now feeding it externally.

Got it! I appreciate that info. Can I ask what oil cooler was used? I currently have the PWR installed with not quite as advertised results.

I wish y'all were in California I'd just drop my car off and let you do your thing!

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

Got it! I appreciate that info. Can I ask what oil cooler was used? I currently have the PWR installed with not quite as advertised results.

I wish y'all were in California I'd just drop my car off and let you do your thing!

Yeah I have a LOT of customers who tried the PWR and other sandwich oil coolers and they all work great at idle speeds but cause the filter to bypass, deeming them worthless for racing.

The fix is to move to the East Coast where the competition is EpicAF... and that's just to reduce the Taxes!!

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

Yeah I have a LOT of customers who tried the PWR and other sandwich oil coolers and they all work great at idle speeds but cause the filter to bypass, deeming them worthless for racing.

The fix is to move to the East Coast where the competition is EpicAF... and that's just to reduce the Taxes!!

You and I talked about my issues with that cooler at length. Not sure if you remember, but I am not running the sandwich plate, I deleted the OEM cooler and used an adapter plate from improved racing to feed the cooler. Results were no drop in temps at the OEM gauge, and a roughly 20 degree difference comparing the dash gauge and an aftermarket temp sensor I installed in the cooler return line

[Katech_Mike]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

Got it! I appreciate that info. Can I ask what oil cooler was used? I currently have the PWR installed with not quite as advertised results.

I wish y'all were in California I'd just drop my car off and let you do your thing!

We used the PWR that replaces the cheek cooler on this car(ZL1) and the temps don't exceed ~250F at COTA making 800RWHP.

I honestly wouldn't want to do another one. It's so labor intensive to install cleanly that I couldn't charge you enough for it to even make sense. I don't even want to look back at that job to see how many hours were put in

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

You and I talked about my issues with that cooler at length. Not sure if you remember, but I am not running the sandwich plate, I deleted the OEM cooler and used an adapter plate from improved racing to feed the cooler. Results were no drop in temps at the OEM gauge, and a roughly 20 degree difference comparing the dash gauge and an aftermarket temp sensor I installed in the cooler return line

Agreed, I just do not think there is enough volume flow nor time the oil stays in that cooler for the surface area it has compared to the bar & plate design of the CSF 8110 which adds a considerable amount of oil to the program.

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by Katech_Mike

We used the PWR that replaces the cheek cooler on this car(ZL1) and the temps don't exceed ~250F at COTA making 800RWHP.

I honestly wouldn't want to do another one. It's so labor intensive to install cleanly that I couldn't charge you enough for it to even make sense. I don't even want to look back at that job to see how many hours were put in

Really hope I get similar results. I'm hoping adding oil to the system and mounting the tank in the trunk both help keep the temps lower.

I'm sure it's gonna take a lot of time to install the system, planning on doing it along with a full cage and engine refresh this fall/winter so I should be able to take my time with it.

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

Agreed, I just do not think there is enough volume flow nor time the oil stays in that cooler for the surface area it has compared to the bar & plate design of the CSF 8110 which adds a considerable amount of oil to the program.

I can't disagree with you, but others have gotten positive results with it, I seem to be the anomaly that didn't.