[clg82]

I tried asking this question in the "tire" section but it didn't get much "traction"

I know I know not another tire thread haha, but I have a few very specific questions. I am currently at 900rwhp now with my build and plan to stay that way for awhile. I live in North Texas where the weather is pretty mild and my car is only a "weekend nice weather driver". Currently the 555RIIs I have on it now, don't stand a chance lol. So my specific questions are below.

1) 15" or 17" beadlocks?
2) What brand?
3) What's tires are good for drivability on the weekends yet still sticky for some good spirited driving?
4) Do I need to get front and rear wheels, or can I only do rear?
5) What brand is a good brand tires and wheels with this HP?

Thanks for any help and for humoring me!

[KingLT1]

What size tire is on it now?

[clg82]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

What size tire is on it now?

The stock ones.

[KingLT1]

Then go up to a 315 35 20. you will likely have to change the front to a 35 as well.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Then go up to a 315 35 20. you will likely have to change the front to a 35 as well.

Hmm...will that cure the no traction issue? Was reading some go to a 17" wheel and do some sort of drag pack, but if I could stay somewhat "stock looking" I'd prefer that!

[KingLT1]

The biggest thing you can do to help traction is increase tire height followed by width, if you want to keep a tire that retains decent handling and wear. The taller tire will effectively lengthen your gear ratio which will soften up the torque spike when you hit the throttle.

Sure, you can move to a 17" with a super soft tire like an ET-R, but it's not going to be as stable, nor handle very well, and the street will tear up the tread fast.

Beadlock is just for show and adds weight. No need unless you plan on going to the track and hooking the car out of the hole. You are not going to spin the tire on the rim from rolls unless maybe you are 1500+ whp.

All that being said, 900+ whp RWD vehicles don't hook very well on unprepped surfaces period. Ultimately you may end up needing some sort of boost control logic like the Smooth boost. I believe DSX also offers something that provides control over the 2650 bypass valve so it can be set to close slower.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The biggest thing you can do to help traction is increase tire height followed by width, if you want to keep a tire that retains decent handling and wear. The taller tire will effectively lengthen your gear ratio which will soften up the torque spike when you hit the throttle.

Sure, you can move to a 17" with a super soft tire like an ET-R, but it's not going to be as stable, nor handle very well, and the street will tear up the tread fast.

Beadlock is just for show and adds weight. No need unless you plan on going to the track and hooking the car out of the hole. You are not going to spin the tire on the rim from rolls unless maybe you are 1500+ whp.

All that being said, 900+ whp RWD vehicles don't hook very well on unprepped surfaces period. Ultimately you may end up needing some sort of boost control logic like the Smooth boost. I believe DSX also offers something that provides control over the 2650 bypass valve so it can be set to close slower.

That is the next step in my build, the DSX boost controller that integrates with the Atlas. Thanks again for your valuable in put King, it's much appreciated. In regards to the boost controller, is it common place for tuners to set it up where the boost is tolerable at a 1/4 mile track type setting and a different setting for the street and roll racing.....long story short, I guess I have a lot more research to do on what boost controllers can help accomplish.

[Smokin19]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Then go up to a 315 35 20. you will likely have to change the front to a 35 as well.

Not to steal the thread.

Is this the size you run King?

[KingLT1]

I run the 305/35/20

[Megahurtz]

Drag radials will help and be a compromise for traction vs stability. But a 15 inch conversion will get you the most traction.....but the car will handle like garbage. So if you're only interested in going in a straight line and its not your daily, just go with the 15 or 17 inch conversion. If you want the car to handle somewhat then go with wider wheels and Nitto DR's.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Drag radials will help and be a compromise for traction vs stability. But a 15 inch conversion will get you the most traction.....but the car will handle like garbage. So if you're only interested in going in a straight line and its not your daily, just go with the 15 or 17 inch conversion. If you want the car to handle somewhat then go with wider wheels and Nitto DR's.

Well said! The Nitto R2's are a great street tire with minimal compromise, and a soft compound

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by clg82

That is the next step in my build, the DSX boost controller that integrates with the Atlas. Thanks again for your valuable in put King, it's much appreciated. In regards to the boost controller, is it common place for tuners to set it up where the boost is tolerable at a 1/4 mile track type setting and a different setting for the street and roll racing.....long story short, I guess I have a lot more research to do on what boost controllers can help accomplish.

I bet the boost controller would help ALOT! Are you trying to launch from a dig, or stab it from a roll?