[Kuutr]

Hi everyone,
I did a search and nothing came up. I’m looking to get a car hauler this winter to head south at some point. 8.5’ x 24’ seems to be fairly common. Looking for advice and set ups for securing the Queen. Thanks

[MT-SS1LE]

I've been thinking of an enclosed trailer myself, but 20' length as I don't plan to put anything else in the trailer but the car. Supposedly the 20' is much easier to maneuver, not to mention tow with a half-ton truck. In my case, it would be to transport the vehicle cross-country if I move next year. My biggest concern was how to securely tie down the car for a cross country move. Was thinking about through-the-wheel straps since most trailers only come with 4 tie down rings.

[LeonardS]

I moved from Iowa to North Dakota in 2019/2020. I purchased a 28’ enclosed trailer, with a V-front, 8’ interior height, full length floor E-track on both sides of the floor, 8 D-rings in the floor, 2 rows of full length E-track on the walls, 7,000 lb axles, 14 ply tires, 2 spares, 110 volt winch and 12 volt winch in the front, load equalizing hitch. I made 13 trips and put on 20,000 miles, hauling 6 cars and all my shop and household goods. I didn’t have a single issue. Don’t go and buy a trailer with 3,500 lb axles and puny 15” tires. You are just asking for trouble, when you really don’t want trouble.

[Jus Cruisin]

I've had both 24 and 20 foot enclosed car trailers. Both V nose. This was my 20 footer.

[Kuutr]

Originally Posted by Jus Cruisin

I've had both 24 and 20 foot enclosed car trailers. Both V nose. This was my 20 footer.

That’s a nice set up. Are those planks to give your door clearance over wheel wells? I’m still wrapping my head around opening the door to get out. Looks like a challenge lol

[Jus Cruisin]

Originally Posted by Kuutr

That’s a nice set up. Are those planks to give your door clearance over wheel wells? I’m still wrapping my head around opening the door to get out. Looks like a challenge lol

Yep the 2x10's did just that. Single on the right. Doubled on the left. Tips the car a little to allow the door to swing up when opened. Doubled on both sides, the door wouldn't swing through the side door. If I was to get back into taking older cars to NSRA or Goodguys shows I'd probably go with spread axle trailer with the hinged side. Sort of like this.

[LeonardS]

I think the best way to solve the opening of the door issue, is to always winch the cars in and out. That’s the way I’ve always done it. You can see everything as you winch it in vs. trying to drive it in.

[Jus Cruisin]

Originally Posted by LeonardS

I think the best way to solve the opening of the door issue, is to always winch the cars in and out. That’s the way I’ve always done it. You can see everything as you winch it in vs. trying to drive it in.

Certainly an option. Most drag racers do that. Not for easy in and out but because they don't idle worth a hoot.

I could drive in hop out get rolling while the winch guys were still messing around.

[LateBrakeU2]

Decide on a price point then go from there. You can get E track installed relatively cheep. 20' enclosed can go from 8k to 25k ,also think hard if you need any extra space for kit as a 20' does not leave much with one of these cars. In my experience not much diff between a 24' and 20' for manuverabilty.

[LeonardS]

Originally Posted by Jus Cruisin

Certainly an option. Most drag racers do that. Not for easy in and out but because they don't idle worth a hoot.

I could drive in hop out get rolling while the winch guys were still messing around.

I’m not in that big of a hurry.

[Kuutr]

Going to look at this baby. 8.5 x 24’

[tortilla-flats]

Timely. Starting this search/research myself.

[Kuutr]

Cool ,Once I get more info I’ll post my thoughts.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

As a licensed Transporter for the past 20 years and have been hauling my own vehicles for far longer... here's the Low-Down on not buying junk!

• For one... NEVER Skimp on Tires! If its a 15" tire you can get a Load-E to start with an 80-PSI rating or go all-in with the Carlisle CSL-16 Load-F with a 95-PSI Rating. These tires are rated to 80mph at FULL LOAD and this is critical not for just hauling at speed, but its truly about their temperature range of operation. If you are hauling across the USA with highway temps exceeding 150ºF, you will find out how bad your tires are fast!
  
  
• I use the Carlisle Brand tires. In the past 10 years of hauling $MIL+ boats across the USA, these tires have the lowest drag coefficient netting higher MPGs for the tow vehicle than any other tire I have ever used. Carlisle is also the ONLY company that will repair ANY damages caused by a failure of their tire. Meaning, if their tire ruptures, damages your trailer and anything in it, they will stroke you a check for the repairs. No other tire company in America will do that!! I know firsthand as the entire single-sheet fiberglass side of my 38' 5th-wheel Gearbox Toyhauler was replaced due to their 16" tire exploding... (it couldn't be that I was grossly overloaded and speeding to Road America!??!), but that was another story.
  
  
• Yes, the lifting sides trailers are convenient... but guess what gets damaged when their tin-foil fenders and inner panel go BOOM from a retread being hit or the tire fails...? YEAH, your car or anything inside is damaged... BUT WAIT!! THERE'S MORE!! You cannot close the door after the tire damages the wall!! And worst yet... that is on the traffic side, so if wind catches it and rips it open at speed, Hmmmmmm!??!
  
  
• V-Nose trailers are NOT more aerodynamically stable. I used to do trailer testing for Aerovault Trailers, designed by Peter Brock... yeah, the guy who designed the Stingray Corvette and Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe. A V-nose trailer is a constant argument with airflow coming off your truck... "should I go right... or left?" Imagine, Dory from Finding Nemo... yeah, that's a V-Nose. Buy a flat-front with rounded corners and capped roof with a curve if you can find a decent one. Put an ARE Truck topper on the bed and a 9-Lives Wang on it to deflect the airflow for the best MPGs!!
  
  
• Torsion axles FTMFW!! Do not buy a Spring Axle trailer... just don't do it.
  
  
• If you are keeping the electric drum brakes... go ahead, buy a complete spare hub/drum and brake backing plate setup. Just have it ready to go. OR... be smarter and convert the entire trailer to Discs with Electric Over Hydraulic brakes.
  
  
• MAC's Tie Downs. Period. End of Story. Do not buy cheap china junk amazon straps.
  
  
• Get a Harbor Freight synthetic rope winch. If you have a flat-nosed trailer, install a toolbox on the front, mount the battery and winch inside there. Makes it super nice to just have the pass thru to the inside of the trailer rather than cables and junk on the inside a small trailer. Watch this video on how to install the winch!
  
  
• Get a set of AirLift Suspension air bags for your truck! No matter how great your truck is... the dynamics can change when towing! This remote controlled setup is AMAZING!! Watch this video for the install and which kit to buy.
  
  
• Having a "Spread Axle" trailer gives you more stability at highways speeds and a much smoother ride for your ride! This is a MUST if you are using a Half-ton pickup or pushing the limits of the tow vehicle.
  

I hope this helps and if you have any questions about towing anything, or want someone who knows how to take care of your transport needs, LMK!!