[509Driver]

Yea I wasn’t holding the start button long enough. If you just press it, and release it quickly (like all the info online says) it turns the car into some kind of aux mode. Stereo comes on, dash lights up, etc. but the innercooler pump does not. But if I hold the button for 5+ seconds, it turns the innercooler pump on.

You guys should be charging for all this info! lol I know I would gladly pay.

Getting info from Whipple, or any local shop is like pulling teeth! Needless to say, I appreciate you guys helping out with your input!

[arpad_m]

Technically, the first one is "accessory mode" that is only active for 5 minutes, and the one you enter by holding the start/stop button down for at least 5 seconds is called "service mode".

If one wants all electrical components to initialize and stay on longer, service mode is the ticket.

[509Driver]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Technically, the first one is "accessory mode" that is only active for 5 minutes, and the one you enter by holding the start/stop button down for at least 5 seconds is called "service mode".

If one wants all electrical components to initialize and stay on longer, service mode is the ticket.

Thanks for the clarification, good to know!

[KingLT1]

Arpad is correct..."service mode" formerly known as "key on" is what I meant.

[PeteSS2018]

509Driver ... I had a similar issue (perhaps not the same) with clunking coming from the drive snout on my 2.9 Whipple. As it turned out, I took it to a shop who disassembled the front and found that the coupler (a plastic part that connects the input shaft to the rotor pack via these steel prongs) had completely disintegrated. Basically, the coupler had broken/cracked and gradually was ground up into plastic powder like it had been put in a blender. The input shaft prongs were basically directly contacting/driving the rotor pack prongs and still turning the blower, but the noise was very different to the "ordinary" Whipple sound.

The workshop said they'd never seen anything like it. But got a new coupler - cheap and easy to get - which Whipple said was a newer type of material. Never had a problem since.

The blower was only about 10,000 km (6,000 miles) old when that happened.

My suggestion, if there is a LOT of play in the input, is take the snout off and check the coupler is in tact.

[509Driver]

Originally Posted by PeteSS2018

509Driver ... I had a similar issue (perhaps not the same) with clunking coming from the drive snout on my 2.9 Whipple. As it turned out, I took it to a shop who disassembled the front and found that the coupler (a plastic part that connects the input shaft to the rotor pack via these steel prongs) had completely disintegrated. Basically, the coupler had broken/cracked and gradually was ground up into plastic powder like it had been put in a blender. The input shaft prongs were basically directly contacting/driving the rotor pack prongs and still turning the blower, but the noise was very different to the "ordinary" Whipple sound.

The workshop said they'd never seen anything like it. But got a new coupler - cheap and easy to get - which Whipple said was a newer type of material. Never had a problem since.

The blower was only about 10,000 km (6,000 miles) old when that happened.

My suggestion, if there is a LOT of play in the input, is take the snout off and check the coupler is in tact.

I appreciate the info. I’ve talked with a few different guys who have had a lot of experience with the 2.9 and they think it’s just normal for that blower. Pretty much just keep an eye on it, and as long as it doesn’t get worse, it should be fine. So currently I’ve put about 200 miles on it, and there’s no change.

Do you remember roughly how much play (gear lash) was in your pulley?