[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by carguy55

I didn't have any issues tracking with my old ones that had leaked. My FEA arms were upgraded with SPL bushings

Any noticeable improvement over FEA? My FE4 is leaking after 7600 miles, ~2600 track miles, so I am debating on buy once cry once with the SPL bushings or SPL arms, or just buy FEA.

[cdb95z28]

Just buy the FEA.

[DaveC113]

I think I'm going to spring for the SPL arms. Last year there was a 20% off black friday sale which brings the price down to $640... still really expensive but I think getting rid of the rubber bushing and having roll center adjustment is worth it.

[Slurpee]

I sprung for SPL. Buy once, cry once. Turner said to drill some additional holes in the ducts and zip tie them to the arms.

[Dabjbr]

This is just friendly bump/subscription for myself. Need to check them the next time I'm under the car!

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by FactoryMatt

Put FEA arms in. 2 hrs labor (have to cut the bolts out) and arms were 70 each. Car feels good!

Matt, or anyone else, I have to order these too!

I see the part number for the links but does anyone have the part numbers for new bolts/nuts?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

Matt, or anyone else, I have to order these too!

I see the part number for the links but does anyone have the part numbers for new bolts/nuts?

BOLT,FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM FRONT
A37-67 * (SINGLE USE)(M12X1.75X106, 75THD)(26.6 OD)

#11610915

One time use means it's a Torque To Yield (TTY) bolt.
Tightening spec: 74 lb/ft +90-105*

Ball joint nut spec: 30 lb/ft +120-135*

The service manual actually states to cut the old bolt in half to remove and install the new bolt in the opposite direction of the original one.
While the service manual does not state in this arm's replacement info to tighten the bolt at ride height, I personally did on my SS 1LE. Otherwise the rubber bushing of the arm may be in a state of bind which could affect chassis dynamics. AKA "timing' the bushings, this is standard practice for rubber jointed suspension arms.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

BOLT,FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM FRONT
A37-67 * (SINGLE USE)(M12X1.75X106, 75THD)(26.6 OD)

#11610915

One time use means it's a Torque To Yield (TTY) bolt.
Tightening spec: 74 lb/ft +90-105*

Ball joint nut spec: 30 lb/ft +120-135*

The service manual actually states to cut the old bolt in half to remove and install the new bolt in the opposite direction of the original one.
While the service manual does not state in this arm's replacement info to tighten the bolt at ride height, I personally did on my SS 1LE. Otherwise the rubber bushing of the arm may be in a state of bind which could affect chassis dynamics. AKA "timing' the bushings, this is standard practice for rubber jointed suspension arms.

Perfect, thank you!

I agree with your perspective. This now gives me reason to use both my quickjacks and wheel cribs at the same time!

Jack up with the QJ, drop down on cribs, tighten to specs and then unload!

BTW, where are you pulling the service manual detail from?

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

While the service manual does not state in this arm's replacement info to tighten the bolt at ride height, I personally did on my SS 1LE.

The manuals also never seem to state why the hell the factory puts these bolts in the wrong damn way all the time! This is hardly the only car where this is a problem. I assume it's easier for the machines on the assembly line, and I'm sure they assemble the suspension and subframe before putting the whole giant assembly into the car.

This prompts the question: I wonder if they "time" the bushings during factory assembly? Or do they just let them droop and them tighten the crap out of the one-time-use bolts? Inquiring minds want to know.

And BTW, I agree with the recommendation to time them like you suggested. It's not only suspension dynamics, but it probably helps bushing longevity.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

Perfect, thank you!

I agree with your perspective. This now gives me reason to use both my quickjacks and wheel cribs at the same time!

Jack up with the QJ, drop down on cribs, tighten to specs and then unload!

BTW, where are you pulling the service manual detail from?

Repair Link Shop