[keep_hope_alive]

This is a decent write-up. Thank you for sharing.

When opening up the existing wire loom, there are tidier ways to open it, but the key is to not cut factory wiring in the process. The wiring in the photos looks undamaged, which is good.

When running the new toggle switch wiring, it's good form to follow factory wiring. If you'd like to have factory-looking wiring that doesn't' require the plastic loom, you can use CL2 or CL3 jacked speaker wiring.
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Speak...01N3JQU7Q?th=1


Using a silver toggle swtich is pretty obvious and easy to see. A black rocker switch is easier to conceal. Avoid locations where thieves would look, such as under the dash or in your center console. Also, make sure it's not a location that could be bumped while driving since it will kill fuel when off.

I had an immobilizer kill switch on my previous car (installed after it was stolen then recovered), going on 8 years now. You have to get into the habit of always using it, and you have to sacrifice remote start. Make sure the on vs off orientation is natural.

I wouldn't be against adding an LED light to indicate status of the switch (DPST) so you'd see the light when going to push the start button. That would be a final check for you to know that it has power before trying to start it, and it wouldn't mean anything to a thief. Ideally, the push button itself would be illuminated and not a random, extra LED.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Rocker.../dp/B07T2RB1TD

the reason for DPST is you'd have one terminal pair for fuel relay control and the second terminal pair for the LED indication - simply 12V constant to the LED. This would also be a reminder to always turn off the switch since you'd then see the LED go out.

[The Maverick]

Another customization option: multiple switches in different locations, all of which have to be flipped on.

[2023TXZL1]

EXCELLENT write up! Just did this to my car and works flawlessly. Try to start it with the switch flipped and it sputters, throws a check engine light and doesn't start. Flip the switch, wipe codes with obd scanner, good to go👍🏽🙌🏼

[2018 Blue 1LE]

Originally Posted by SS_Don

I use the mobilistics and it works great. No issues about the key fob. It only communicates to the relay when you push the button.


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I was looking into using this and when I looked in the trunk fuse box, the relay marked fuel pump is NOT there.



2018 2SS 1LE, does that make the location of the relay somewhere else or not have one? Conflicting info on if it has one.

[SS_Don]

Contact Mobilistics to see what your options are.


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[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by 2018 Blue 1LE

I was looking into using this and when I looked in the trunk fuse box, the relay marked fuel pump is NOT there.



2018 2SS 1LE, does that make the location of the relay somewhere else or not have one? Conflicting info on if it has one.

Mobilistics uses the starter relay, not the fuel pump relay. According to Google, the fuel pump relay is part of the fuel pump control module, which is located above the fuel tank and bolted to the body.

[IMCWORTH]

Mobilistic works great. It only uses the starter relay under the hood.
I recommend it.

[Ray3768]

I'll second the Mobilistics No-Start. Bought mine used here from a forum member (thank you Stewman!). Works great. If you have a manual trans car be sure to keep the fob in an accessible location like the cup holder. If you manage to stall the car, you will need to hit the button on the fob to restart. This took a bit of getting used to since I like to keep my keys in my pocket, but now I feel a heck of a lot better taking my car when we go out shopping or to eat. I'm no longer worried that the car will be gone when we go to leave.


-Ray

[2018 Blue 1LE]

Originally Posted by Ray3768

If you have a manual trans car be sure to keep the fob in an accessible location like the cup holder. If you manage to stall the car, you will need to hit the button on the fob to restart.

-Ray

I thought it was a 30 second timer after car was turned off, that should be enough time to restart the car.


Good advice, as I do have a manual car.



Thanks

[The Maverick]

Originally Posted by 2018 Blue 1LE

I thought it was a 30 second timer after car was turned off, that should be enough time to restart the car.

That is what their website says, but my experience has been the same as above - no start after the car gets shut off. No issue there with my A10.

[TOP WHOP]

Originally Posted by jt_1le

This is a great guide, however, I followed the steps, cut the same wire GRN/with a gray stripe, and the car ran with the switch in both positions.

I cut the same wire GRN/with a gray stripe and the car started. Although, it sounded rough and set a CEL P12A6, fuel pump control module. Sounds like the right circuit.
NO winner winner chicken dinner. Cut at your own risk.

[N Camarolina]

Originally Posted by TOP WHOP

I cut the same wire GRN/with a gray stripe and the car started. Although, it sounded rough and set a CEL P12A6, fuel pump control module. Sounds like the right circuit.
NO winner winner chicken dinner. Cut at your own risk.

Maybe let it run for another couple of seconds to see if fuel runs out (of line) and it stalls?

[Rnovrit]

I could be wrong but if memory serves me correct from looking through a bunch of wiring diagrams in the factory manual on another project, I believe the fuel pump driver module, module location and wiring is different on a ZL1 to the SS. The wiring the original poster used is for the SS configuration and is not the same for the ZL1.

[keep_hope_alive]

Good point about wiring differences. I recommend anyone doing this, to just pay the one-day access fee to ACDelcoTDS website to verify for your specific vehicle.

This only works if you use it. My post from last year includes an extra step to help remind you to use it by adding an LED on a constant 12V circuit to indicate when the switch is on. Adding the light near the start button is probably best.