[Colin101234]

is .065 lifter preload enough on caddy racing lifter? I'm currently running a 224 242, .639/.648 lift 114.5+3 custom cam. With .700 PAC springs. My pushrods are 7.825 (stock 7.850) Heads are milled .025 but I have a .009 over stock head gasket (so .016 milled really). Valve train is noisy but that doesn't bother me I just want the setup as safe as possible. My ptv is .065-.070 and .110. Let me know what you think.

[Hostile_1LE]

My valvetrain is noisy too, I have the GPI SS3 with johnson 2110r. I think its just gonna be how an aluminum motor is with a cam. .065 is what I set my buddies L77 up with using the caddy racing lifters. Its been running great like that.

[GreyGhost702]

I'm also at .065" preload running 7.825" pushrods. Not sure what the difference is between a noisy valvetrain and a quiet one. I think mine is pretty quiet. I was preparing myself for machine gun lifter tick but she's been quiet. The blower and cam chop are louder than anything coming from the engine itself.

[Hostile_1LE]

Mainly cam profile and valve spring size I think. Assuming there are no problems that are causing the noise. It’s also possible some of us just have sensitive ears. I think mine is loud but my friend can’t hear it at all.

[Colin101234]

Yeah I think it has a lot to do with the .700 dual springs and the high lift cam creating a noisy valve strain which from what I hear at this point is normal. I think everyone has a different interpretation of noisy. You can really only really hear it with the windows closed and coasting, driving next to a wall or car, or if I have my ear up to the engine bay at idle its a noticeable white noise. When I'm on throttle all you hear is the exhaust. I dont necessarily think its the lifter creating the noise either, I think its the actual valve train. I've also heard that the che trunions are louder aswell.

[Colin101234]

If your running 7.825 pushrods, did you mill your heads? If so how much?

[NicKey]

First off pushrods that are too short can certainly cause valvetrain noise as well as other issues. Improper length is a very common issue we see from home garage and budget shop builds.

Are you actually measuring the length with a push rod checking tool (gauge length) or a caliper (auctual length) as these are two different measurements. You can also use the "turn" method and it takes approx, 3/4s of a turn to get .060 prelaod,

[Colin101234]

Originally Posted by NicKey

First off pushrods that are too short can certainly cause valvetrain noise as well as other issues. Improper length is a very common issue we see from home garage and budget shop builds.

Are you actually measuring the length with a push rod checking tool (gauge length) or a caliper (auctual length) as these are two different measurements. You can also use the "turn" method and it takes approx, 3/4s of a turn to get .060 prelaod,

I used an adjustable pushrod, turned to zero lash, and then added my desired preload about .070. I used a digital caliper to measure the adjustable pushrod to see what the zero lash measurement was (was 7.755) So I ran a 7.825.

[NicKey]

So tool was 7.755 per caliper and push rod measured 7.825 with caliper or had that etched into side of pushrod?

[Hostile_1LE]

Originally Posted by Colin101234

If your running 7.825 pushrods, did you mill your heads? If so how much?

My heads aren’t milled at all. I’m running 7.850 intake and 7.875 exhaust putting me at .035 and .045 preload respectively.

[Colin101234]

Originally Posted by NicKey

So tool was 7.755 per caliper and push rod measured 7.825 with caliper or had that etched into side of pushrod?

No the adjustable pushrod checking tool measured 7.755 with zero lash; so no preload. I added .070 preload to that measurement which lead me to order 7.825 pushrods.

[KingLT1]

Your top end looks like it would be on the noisy side based on the components chosen. You are running a high lift cam that likely has moderately aggressive lobe rate combined with a spring rated for .700 lift. That is snapping the valves open and closed aggressively and you are hearing the valve noise being amplified through the headers. Some headers are worse than others depending how thick they are.

Also note that with aluminum engines you are going to get .012-.013 expansion when the engine comes up to temp. So, make sure you account for that in your preload target.

That being said I believe BTR recommends .050-.100 range for preload on these lifters, so they are very forgiving which is why I posted what I did above. I don't believe you have a preload issue.

[christianchevell]

When I was on camaro five back when guys were just beginning to cam their camaros I was the old chevy dude who having done many old chevys..tried to warn some.... And one guys write up to install the cam was not always right and he eventually faded away.

Some would overtighten their installs doing it by quarter turn as in the measurement of the movement of the nut on the bolt that holds the rocker not taking into account the basic premise that the rocker is a Fulcrum and every complete turn with the 1.7 rockers was like 1.7 turns in the effect of the movement from zero lash.

Some guys blamed the cams not being forged good enough in China... Some got harder cores and that became the norm...But know this the engine is powerful enough versus old say chevy 350 you can totally overtighten the LASH and not have it stop the engine... It will go and eventually degrade the cam and lifters....

ME I made sure and broke in the cams with Driven racing oil BR30 and ran my last stroker on it because ZDDP does matter. Some just used the stock Mobil and broke in how they thought was right with just a oil change using stock oil.

I told others about the Driven racing oil and how Nascar used it developed from Joe Gibbs and how it made a difference.

With mods the ls3 was noisier , don't think it was trunnions making it but the Deal is with headers your going to hear a lot more, Wrap them and it will help.... And always be sure your stuff is set right..

.I used to be able to do many things on cheaper engine sin the day...Say take old engine knocking and make a set of cut out top valve covers and tighten the rockers running to get the noise out knowing if a cam was shot by the amount of 1/4 turns from that and if a lifter was shot kind of by feel.... I used cams from one car in another with just new lifters...used, Things are alot different with cheap engines comparative. I used the EOIC method Exhaust open Intake closed to know when to do the opposite lifters lash.

My advice just if your in the zone and you know it; Wrap the headers, My 427 stroker always had hard starts when it got hot or real warm due to heat soak a starter destroyer with headers on a old chevy...
That was on my 2013 Camaro, even with an aftermarket starter and some heat wrap ( it holds in heat also); problem sucked to have to wait then after unhooking the batter due to slow crank code..wait til its cool and then crank it up starting faster like normal and did not go away until i wrapped the headers on that 13 as the engine bay is that tight, and i removed part of the weather stripping to vent heat out of the hood at the cowl another old rodders trick...

Anyway just rambling on here; soild lifts make a lot more noise, higher lift which is the case for cams on our Camaros can make more noise with a tight lash... and the ls3 was always known for the light lifter tick..don't let it drive you nuts its natural that typewriter sound it was known as.... Just be sure to cover the headers if you can because they also amplify the noise and always be sure the lash is done right..and usually a little less lash can be quieter on the LS3 is what I heard. Good luck from a old guy...... And if I cam my LT4$$$$ engine I will use Driven racing oil, not like it could be that much more expensive that the 10 quart supercar oil i use now.

[Hostile_1LE]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

When I was on camaro five back when guys were just beginning to cam their camaros I was the old chevy dude who having done many old chevys..tried to warn some.... And one guys write up to install the cam was not always right and he eventually faded away.

Some would overtighten their installs doing it by quarter turn as in the measurement of the movement of the nut on the bolt that holds the rocker not taking into account the basic premise that the rocker is a Fulcrum and every complete turn with the 1.7 rockers was like 1.7 turns in the effect of the movement from zero lash.

Some guys blamed the cams not being forged good enough in China... Some got harder cores and that became the norm...But know this the engine is powerful enough versus old say chevy 350 you can totally overtighten the LASH and not have it stop the engine... It will go and eventually degrade the cam and lifters....

ME I made sure and broke in the cams with Driven racing oil BR30 and ran my last stroker on it because ZDDP does matter. Some just used the stock Mobil and broke in how they thought was right with just a oil change using stock oil.

I told others about the Driven racing oil and how Nascar used it developed from Joe Gibbs and how it made a difference.

With mods the ls3 was noisier , don't think it was trunnions making it but the Deal is with headers your going to hear a lot more, Wrap them and it will help.... And always be sure your stuff is set right..

.I used to be able to do many things on cheaper engine sin the day...Say take old engine knocking and make a set of cut out top valve covers and tighten the rockers running to get the noise out knowing if a cam was shot by the amount of 1/4 turns from that and if a lifter was shot kind of by feel.... I used cams from one car in another with just new lifters...used, Things are alot different with cheap engines comparative. I used the EOIC method Exhaust open Intake closed to know when to do the opposite lifters lash.

My advice just if your in the zone and you know it; Wrap the headers, My 427 stroker always had hard starts when it got hot or real warm due to heat soak a starter destroyer with headers on a old chevy...
That was on my 2013 Camaro, even with an aftermarket starter and some heat wrap ( it holds in heat also); problem sucked to have to wait then after unhooking the batter due to slow crank code..wait til its cool and then crank it up starting faster like normal and did not go away until i wrapped the headers on that 13 as the engine bay is that tight, and i removed part of the weather stripping to vent heat out of the hood at the cowl another old rodders trick...

Anyway just rambling on here; soild lifts make a lot more noise, higher lift which is the case for cams on our Camaros can make more noise with a tight lash... and the ls3 was always known for the light lifter tick..don't let it drive you nuts its natural that typewriter sound it was known as.... Just be sure to cover the headers if you can because they also amplify the noise and always be sure the lash is done right..and usually a little less lash can be quieter on the LS3 is what I heard. Good luck from a old guy...... And if I cam my LT4$$$$ engine I will use Driven racing oil, not like it could be that much more expensive that the 10 quart supercar oil i use now.

A couple things. hydraulic-Roller cams/lifters do not need a break in. I have been told this by all the big shops. Hydraulic valvetrains are a 0-lash system. If you have any lash at all, there is a problem. Hydraulic lifters have an internal plunger supported by a smsll spring and oil pressure that allows the rocker tip to maintain constant pressure on the valve. Instead of adjusting lash in a setup with hydraulic lifter, you adjust the preload on that internal plunger, as you do not want the plunger pushing against the retaining clip when oil pressure is applied, or it could damage the lifter.

In this case, more preload will likely not change the valvetrain noise. I went and increased my preload at one point, chasing the same thing, and it had no effect, so I returned to my .035" preload that is recommended.

Regarding covering the headers. I would not wrap them, I've heard some bad things about the interactions between moisture and heat. If heat is the heart of that concern, I would ceramic coat them.

just my $0.02