[radz28]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Even an ice tank is no band aid for an inefficient blower and/or bricks. When I really pushed my Whipple 2.9 the heat soared, and even though the bricks on that blower aren’t bad, even the huge ice tank I had was barely enough to keep IATs reasonable. It’s all about getting the blower in it’s efficiency curve matched with bricks that can remove enough heat to keep things happy.

This will be controversial for some so I’ll zip up my flame suit LOL… but I believe the Whipple 3.0 to be more efficient than the Maggie 2650 so far. Most comparisons show them making similar power (700-1000 WHP comparisons) but with the Whipple being able to spin a solid 10% slower…which makes sense since the Whipple 3.0 is 10% bigger. So the BIG question is: what will happen if the 3.0 is pushed HARD, like Jason’s car. And until someone does, his Maggie 2650 is king of the hill. But we can have fun chasing him…maybe not my bank account so much though!

I guess I was thinking along similar lines, but you have the experience, so I'll go with what you've seen. Even though I didn't have much of a choice with upgrading blowers (as opposed to porting the 1.7), it was a bonus to have the better cooling. Even at 18-psi, and it doesn't matter if it's Summer or Winter - MATs always go down. Given - I'm only pushing slightly less than an LT5 does stock, so I'm not really taxing it at all, but stock boost 1.7s are heating up under the same circumstances, so I have no love loss. If I wasn't running a stock short block, I might drop another 5mm, but I won't do that until I, at least, do springs. Sitar was running 18-19-psi I think, and had no issues, but I'm good where I'm at.

It would be interesting to see where that 3.0 can go. For as many times as Whipple's changed their rotor design, I'd hope there would be improvements. I've read, somewhere, you can't really compare blower size between roots to twin screw directly, but I would have to thing a 3.0 should AT LEAST make the same, and more, than a 2650. I know LMP's got a few 2650 videos out there, with LSs making more than 1300, but those are race builds, and not LTs, so I wouldn't pretend to say that's the barometer to meet/pass. There was at least one C7 Z06 (a 416 or 427) that made 1070 on a hub dyno, and I don't know if it was SAE, and everything else. There's another guy I found making 1140 on Paragon's dyno. LMR's got almost 1230 . I'm not sure if any of those help substantiate ANYTHING, but all I know is I don't make near that, lol.

It would be cool to see someone really put the screws to a 3.0. That' some $$$... Maybe we need a Go Fund Me for you. I'd chip in

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by jd2021

Hello All,
So I know that you should usually do supporting mods before you put on a new power adder, but I'm wondering if there is any information or anecdote from anyone whose just done a whipple 3.0 and nothing else. I know these are fairly new blowers for the LT platform so I don't really expect that anyone's just put one on their car without modding it in some way first.

Whipple rates the kit at 775/735 crank on 93 which seems like pretty good gains, and you can get the ZL1 kit for 6.6k.

I know FBO/E85 is more cost effective, just curious about thoughts of just bolting on the Whipple?

I've dashed my dreams of twincharging my ZLE (mainly because of emissions - stupid county). Next thoughts are down a similar road as you - what about a 3.0L Whipple. Just start with that and play with those results before getting rambunctious. How far can it be pushed with the stock LT4 fueling and no other mods (in the beginning). From what I've seen about the Whipple, gotta do the front subframe spacers and the carbon fiber hood insert to clear.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

I've dashed my dreams of twincharging my ZLE (mainly because of emissions - stupid county). Next thoughts are down a similar road as you - what about a 3.0L Whipple. Just start with that and play with those results before getting rambunctious. How far can it be pushed with the stock LT4 fueling and no other mods (in the beginning). From what I've seen about the Whipple, gotta do the front subframe spacers and the carbon fiber hood insert to clear.

Fueling is the major hold up. Just the swap to the Whipple will max out the fuel system, so you’ll need a JMS voltage booster and a cam lobe (or port injection) to go further.

[ramairroughneck]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Honestly, we don’t know the answer to that yet as no one has pushed one hard enough yet. But for what it’s worth, my car makes the same power as yours at a pretty low blower RPM and the cooling is still on point. As soon as I can get my hands on DSX port or maybe the Goliath HPFP, I’ll turn it up and see what it can really do.

If I were in your shoes I’d just meth your Eddie 2650 and push it a tick harder.

You guys are trapping similar speeds but you have drastically better air, full E85, more cubic inches, aftermarket heads, and better aero. But you are focusing on simply the blower speed alone. What other details have I missed that makes these two combos so comparable given the many differences I pointed out as I don’t know enough specifically and I have seen this comparison twice recently

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by ramairroughneck

You guys are trapping similar speeds but you have drastically better air, full E85, more cubic inches, aftermarket heads, and better aero. But you are focusing on simply the blower speed alone. What other details have I missed that makes these two combos so comparable given the many differences I pointed out as I don’t know enough specifically and I have seen this comparison twice recently

I think you’ve mixed us up lol. I only have E50 which probably has less octane than his race gas (I don’t have enough fuel system for full E at my level). And he has a bigger LME shortblock (390 vs my stock 376) too.

[jd2021]

Anyone actually install one of these on a ZL1 yet? Just looking for information and reviews on a ZL1.

[JSH]

Say $7K plus labor and an incredible waste of a blower. You can get more power for a lot less money - Big Gulp, 91mm TB, Xport your blower, E85 Flex Fuel kit, headers, tune

Originally Posted by jd2021

Hello All,
So I know that you should usually do supporting mods before you put on a new power adder, but I'm wondering if there is any information or anecdote from anyone whose just done a whipple 3.0 and nothing else. I know these are fairly new blowers for the LT platform so I don't really expect that anyone's just put one on their car without modding it in some way first.

Whipple rates the kit at 775/735 crank on 93 which seems like pretty good gains, and you can get the ZL1 kit for 6.6k.

I know FBO/E85 is more cost effective, just curious about thoughts of just bolting on the Whipple?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

Say $7K plus labor and an incredible waste of a blower. You can get more power for a lot less money - Big Gulp, 91mm TB, Xport your blower, E85 Flex Fuel kit, headers, tune

On the other hand, the Whipple 3.0 gives you a “future proof” setup with superior cooling right out of the box, and power levels that ultimately surpass the X-port by a good margin. And you can add port injection down the road without needing port plates too (port bosses are cast into the runners).

[dreksnot]

Trying to decide between a 2650 and 3.0L be getting hard!

Gotta drop the subframe with about 12 spaces - not difficult and if you have a ZL1, then cut the hood support insert, get cowled hood or go with a Whipple Carbon Fiber insert (at around $350, I think). Here are some pictures of Whipple's insert.

It looks like Whipple really supports the Mustang world and from their website, there's a lot less GM stuff (parts, pulleys, TBs, etc.).

[RobZL1]

I wonder if that Whipple CF insert would also work to allow you to run a 2650 with port plates and the stock 2650 lid? That would be a less expensive option vs a new lid, though it wouldn't look as cool or sound as cool...

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

I wonder if that Whipple CF insert would also work to allow you to run a 2650 with port plates and the stock 2650 lid? That would be a less expensive option vs a new lid, though it wouldn't look as cool or sound as cool...

If I do end up going the 3.0 route, I will try and find someone local to me with a 2650 and PI to check fit this dandy Whipple CF insert. And, report back.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

Trying to decide between a 2650 and 3.0L be getting hard!

Gotta drop the subframe with about 12 spaces - not difficult and if you have a ZL1, then cut the hood support insert, get cowled hood or go with a Whipple Carbon Fiber insert (at around $350, I think). Here are some pictures of Whipple's insert.

It looks like Whipple really supports the Mustang world and from their website, there's a lot less GM stuff (parts, pulleys, TBs, etc.).

They both rock. Can’t go wrong either way and unless you’re really, really, committed to max power (ie. $$$ lol), you won’t max either one of them out. Whipple needs the subframe spacers and/or CF hood insert on ZL1, Maggie 2650 requires modded or aftermarket valve covers. No big deal either way.

[dreksnot]

I'm wondering how those 3/8" subframe spacers (for installation) are going to effect a tuned ZLE suspension with the additional height. Are the spacers really necessary WITH the Whipple Carbon Fiber insert? Know anyone who's swapped to a Whipple in their ZL1/ZLE that we could ping?

[radz28]

I doubt a Maggie 2650 would work with that insert. I'm fairly certain it would not be wide enough to fit around the outer edges of a Maggie. I'm pretty sure a Maggie is shorter and wider, hence why a ZL1 hood doesn't need to be trimmed, or subframe spaced. And - without spacers, which I'm not sure would be enough, you'll need a THPSI Maggie 2650 lid to fit under a stock ZL1 hood when using PI plates. CSP said they didn't need it on TreeL1, but I wouldn't know how that's possible. I literally sent my stock Maggie lid to a machine shop to try to shave it to work, and it didn't. Most of the ribs were shaved to leave only around between 1/8-1/4" high, and it still hit near the back edge, just in front of where the hood seats against the cowl seal. For every ZL1 I could remember seeing RPM install a Whipple on, they cut something on the hood. Most of the time, it was the front end, near the pulley, where the hood inner panel captures the front edge of the CF insert. It's hard to remember everything, because they wouldn't film all of the install, but they may have cut a similar area you have to cut for the Edelbrock 2650, too. That was a 2.9 Whipple though. I don't recall seeing an 3.0s the last couple years.