[grampa_ss]

I just did this:
1. sub thump harness/anc delete kit $89
2. sub thump front firing single 12" box (6G-FF110/112) $219 - shipping was over $100
3. SKAR RP-1200.1D amp. $148
4. SKAR SVR-12 D2 sub. $135
5. AudioControl LC2i - $99

[sactownbwoy]

Originally Posted by clg82

This an easy install? Plug and play?

Yes, get the wiring harness for the Bose system from gen5diy or sub thump, can't remember where I got it.

[TJCowher75]

The amp is a audioson SR 1.500. As for placement i would like it behind the seats. One box i did look at made by sub thump which i believe someone has recommended in this thread has the ability for front or rear fire which made my quest to find a box even harder due to wondering which direction i should go with.

[TJCowher75]

I seen sub thump boxes wasnt sure on their quality and if i should go front or rear firing. Whats your opinion on those? Still havent decided if i want 2 10s or 1 12 either leaning towards dual 10s tho. Also yea when i got my box for my truck it was like $100 or $150 in just shipping cost.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by TJCowher75

The amp is a audioson SR 1.500. As for placement i would like it behind the seats. One box i did look at made by sub thump which i believe someone has recommended in this thread has the ability for front or rear fire which made my quest to find a box even harder due to wondering which direction i should go with.

Gotcha. That amp should be fine, recommend the subsonic filter be turned on. Gain must be set correctly.

Box position and orientation will define the cancellation you will experience. The primary mode of cancellation is reflection off the trunk lid (rear of vehicle). The distance between the sub face and rear determines the cancellation experienced. The closer the sub is to the rear, the less cancellation you have (this is because smaller distances move cancellation to higher frequencies).

As a general rule, you want to keep the sub within 3 feet of the rear to keep the cancellation above 80Hz. Historically, front facing moves the sub further away, increasing cancellation. This is why most people experience a quieter sub when forward. If you fire forward but SEAL OFF the sub face with the trunk opening, you prevent cancellation and then you keep the sub output in the cabin. Forward is great for physical protection of the subs, meaning you don't need grills, but the rear seats will attenuate the sound. So, most people face the subs back to reduce cancellation and let the sound come out through the rear deck speaker holes. But, one in the rear corner is the most efficient and sounds the best (like the stealthbox). One slightly better location is in the rear deck, which loads off the rear glass like a hatchback. This is the loudest and best sounding option, but the hardest to build because you have to do A TON of reinforcing and rebuilding of the rear deck.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by sactownbwoy

Yes, get the wiring harness for the Bose system from gen5diy or ********, can't remember where I got it.

you install an amp as well?

[TJCowher75]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

Gotcha. That amp should be fine, recommend the subsonic filter be turned on. Gain must be set correctly.

Box position and orientation will define the cancellation you will experience. The primary mode of cancellation is reflection off the trunk lid (rear of vehicle). The distance between the sub face and rear determines the cancellation experienced. The closer the sub is to the rear, the less cancellation you have (this is because smaller distances move cancellation to higher frequencies).

As a general rule, you want to keep the sub within 3 feet of the rear to keep the cancellation above 80Hz. Historically, front facing moves the sub further away, increasing cancellation. This is why most people experience a quieter sub when forward. If you fire forward but SEAL OFF the sub face with the trunk opening, you prevent cancellation and then you keep the sub output in the cabin. Forward is great for physical protection of the subs, meaning you don't need grills, but the rear seats will attenuate the sound. So, most people face the subs back to reduce cancellation and let the sound come out through the rear deck speaker holes. But, one in the rear corner is the most efficient and sounds the best (like the stealthbox). One slightly better location is in the rear deck, which loads off the rear glass like a hatchback. This is the loudest and best sounding option, but the hardest to build because you have to do A TON of reinforcing and rebuilding of the rear deck.

The rear deck is definitely the place i had wished i could but couldnt find anyone having a box for their. I don't know why but i just assumed the rear corner was the worst one since it wasn't centered. I did find a place near me that claims to build custom boxes. Might go in and see what they have to offer for what prices. Other wise i might go with Sub Thumps rear firing but I also found a zenclosure and a ground shaker. Do you know of anyone else besides JL makes a side mount? I've seen them for the Gen 5 not Gen 6 and seen in another thread someone said only if you get it custom made didnt know if you knew anything else.

[LT14EVA]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

These statements don't exist simultaneously. The amplifiers I've ran for the past 25 years started at $1k each for just the amp. Same budget for speakers. Same budget for subs. And I would say that I am concerned with price. In my '23 1SS I'll run a Hertz Mille 3-way and Hertz Mille sub on two JL VXi amps - so about $6k in gear.

A few hundred isn't precise enough to have a conversation on what to use. $300? $600? Is that the price installed or just equipment? Install will certainly be "a few hundred" with a prefab box. Are you thinking about a prefab sub box or a custom box - custom is obviously more expensive but you save trunk space when done properly.

You can buy a cheap amp (under $200) and cheap subs (under $100 ea.), but they won't last if you push them. If you run them within their limits, they can last a decade. You can buy used and save a ton of money, but there are always risks. I have no issue with used gear, and I own a ton of it, but maybe 5% were worse than expected.

Vented boxes help boost output but then you must set the subsonic filter correctly or you'll destroy the subs. Vented boxes also take up more space. It's a decision you need to make when you make gear selections.

Install costs needs to include getting a signal from the factory amplifier, from the front speaker outputs. The amplifier should have high-level, balanced inputs to accept this signal directly. Otherwise, you'll need an interface, like an Audio Control LC2i, to adapt the factory output into a low level signal (you also gain an auto turn-on).

If you visit car audio specific forums, they can offer generic advice, but they will tell you to come here for vehicle-specific advice. We have an audio sub-section on this forum where this post should be moved.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=228

You’d be surprised. I have a blaupunkt active 8 sub woofer in an enclosed box in one of my cars. $200. Ive been playing the ——- out of it for at least five years and it’s still going strong. At one point the bottom of the seat actually sliced all the cables in half but I had them repaired and it worked as good as new.
Active subs are a great deal.

[sactownbwoy]

Originally Posted by clg82

you install an amp as well?

Yes, with the pre-fabbed wiring harness made specifically for out cars and the fact the battery is in the trunk made things easy.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by LT14EVA

You’d be surprised. I have a blaupunkt active 8 sub woofer in an enclosed box in one of my cars. $200. Ive been playing the ——- out of it for at least five years and it’s still going strong. At one point the bottom of the seat actually sliced all the cables in half but I had them repaired and it worked as good as new.
Active subs are a great deal.

Not surprised at all. The active sub protects itself from the user, which is why it can last for decades. It is internally matched and internally limited. When using separate components, it is the responsibility of the installer and user to operate within limits... and it usually isn't ideal.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by TJCowher75

The rear deck is definitely the place i had wished i could but couldnt find anyone having a box for their. I don't know why but i just assumed the rear corner was the worst one since it wasn't centered. I did find a place near me that claims to build custom boxes. Might go in and see what they have to offer for what prices. Other wise i might go with Sub Thumps rear firing but I also found a zenclosure and a ground shaker. Do you know of anyone else besides JL makes a side mount? I've seen them for the Gen 5 not Gen 6 and seen in another thread someone said only if you get it custom made didnt know if you knew anything else.

Centering would actually be the worst location as it maximizes cancellation. Even taking a box and sliding it to one side, firing to the opposite side, would be better than behind the seats. Behind the seats is just easy to implement and maximizes storage space at the sacrifice of output. This cancellation is easy to test - when it's louder with the trunk open, you have cancellation.

The best speaker/sub locations are ones that minimize cancellation within the cabin. I haven't seen an aftermarket enclosure for the 6th Gen, but I haven't looked either since I'd build my own.

[DamonZ28]

Audiophiles would probably be horrified, but I made my own sub box out of MDF and Audiopipe carpet. I found a calculator online that calculates sub box sizes based on the volume your sub needs, cut the pieces according to those plans, and put it together. It's not show quality, but it's in the trunk and it sounds good to me. Click my journal in my signature & go to post 52 to see pics.

[sactownbwoy]

Here is one I found on ebay, guy makes boxes for various cars it seems.