[aldoun]

Hello guys, I am looking to mod my ZL1 For E85. What exactly do I have to do to get that done? Would I just need a flex fuel sensor? What is the typical cost for the job

[clg82]

flex fuel sensor and tune, janetty racing on here should get you squared away with both

[radz28]

Is all you're looking for is to add E', or do you plan on other mods' down the road? If so (mods' down the road) - realistically - what kind of mods' are you thinking?

I think you could spend what Jannetti asks for for his E' combos' if you're looking for best bang for the buck and stay within the limits of the OEM fuel system. I think it's his 125-HP package. That will take you to about the limit of the OEM fuel system. I forget what others have gotten, but I think it's close to 650 WHP (or something like that). IMO - it goes along the lines of improving efficiency and creating no extra heat from the 1740. If you're looking for around 650-WHP, and pretty much OEM drivability/reliability/bang-for-$$$, this is a good way to go, IMO. If this fit within my picture, this would have been a consideration in my small build.

Or - if you know you're going to go bigger later, and have the funds to do so - bite the bullet and upgrade your fuel system so you can run full E' to about whatever power you want to as your combination goes higher in power a fuel needs. There are many ways to do this, but there are new options available now. If you're in this neighnorhood - I'd jump right in to adding a low side system to support a port injection (PI) addition, like that from TooHighPSI. At least a couple of us have added this system recently, and it's getting easier to get past the limitations of the OEM fuel system. If you don't want to dig into the long block to add a cam with a larger fuel lobe - IMO - this is a great option. There's at least 1-Member here that I modeled my combination off of that put down about 800-WHP with an OEM long block, 2650/CAI/103, and fuel upgrades. You don't need the PI for this power level, but I had a list of guidelines to dance between, so that's why I ended up this way. BUT - you'll be pretty much unlimited from a fueling standpoint.

JMHO.

[KingLT1]

Flex fuel sensor, aem 30-0334 wideband sensor and HPtuners. Then it can be remote tuned. You will probably be around 12-1400.00 by the time you purchase the sensors, hptuners, and have the remote tuning done.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Flex fuel sensor, aem 30-0334 wideband sensor and HPtuners. Then it can be remote tuned. You will probably be around 12-1400.00 by the time you purchase the sensors, hptuners, and have the remote tuning done.

This right here.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

This right here.

This right here. ZLRob plus King LT1 = good advice

[Booher]

What are your thoughts on getting the jms voltage booster, not worth it for stock power levels?

[CW3SF]

Originally Posted by Booher

What are your thoughts on getting the jms voltage booster, not worth it for stock power levels?

Definitely worth it for running e85 blend.

[Z OH 6]

Well this is a new topic that's never been covered here before. LOL.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Well this is a new topic that's never been covered here before. LOL.

If only there was some knowledge base that we could search through to find this info…?!?

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

If only there was some knowledge base that we could search through to find this info…?!?

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

So my understanding for the 6th gen ZL1's and e85, is the limitation is the high side pump and can that not only be addressed via a CAM and not a voltage mod like JMS?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

So my understanding for the 6th gen ZL1's and e85, is the limitation is the high side pump and can that not only be addressed via a CAM and not a voltage mod like JMS?

The entire system is limited at some point. With absolutely no mods and just a flex sensor you can run between E60-70 depending on the elevation and target AFR. I still prefer at least a JMS booster to keep low side consistent. Once you do some bolt-ons the low side starts to fall off. Then after you address low side, you can run E50-60 with headers, cai, one size smaller upper pulley. If you port blower, then you need +30 injectors and LPE high side in order to run the same E content without touching the cam.

If you do cam then you can get to 750-760whp before the LT4 injectors are tapped on E60. So you still need +30's, then you can get to 820whp or so before the LT4 hpfp is maxed. So then you do LPE hpfp and can get to 900whp on E60 before injectors are tapped again. So now you need a real low side and +65's to go further.

Or go port injection and low side, the you can make 800+whp on full E without touching the DI system or cam.

With the current cost of DI fuel components, port injection is an attractive solution being you have a tuner that understands how to dial it in.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The entire system is limited at some point. With absolutely no mods and just a flex sensor you can run between E60-70 depending on the elevation and target AFR. I still prefer at least a JMS booster to keep low side consistent. Once you do some bolt-ons the low side starts to fall off. Then after you address low side, you can run E50-60 with headers, cai, one size smaller upper pulley. If you port blower, then you need +30 injectors and LPE high side in order to run the same E content without touching the cam.

If you do cam then you can get to 750-760whp before the LT4 injectors are tapped on E60. So you still need +30's, then you can get to 820whp or so before the LT4 hpfp is maxed. So then you do LPE hpfp and can get to 900whp on E60 before injectors are tapped again. So now you need a real low side and +65's to go further.

Or go port injection and low side, the you can make 800+whp on full E without touching the DI system or cam.

With the current cost of DI fuel components, port injection is an attractive solution being you have a tuner that understands how to dial it in.

#knowledge