[Kerry]

There is no boost lag that I can think of its not a turbo, however you will not get all the boost that it can make as soon as u stab the throttle like a pd will give you. Depending on tune it can feel laggy on the bottom end if the tune makes it lagger than it was before the install. Happened to me with the pro canned tune. Hence I got another tune and it was day and night difference and felt very peppy on the bottom and still total kick ssa on top. lol

[Kerry]

All chargers have a blow off valve thats open when cruzeing be it cetri or pd. No boost is made until the throttle is pushed far enough down so that vacuum can close the valve to build boost.

[cjperformance]

You'll have plenty of low end w/ the procharger. The addl boost at lower rpms may not be all that beneficial. I'll break traction very easily w/o the drag radials, and even with the DRs, still needs a good amount of caution to avoid unwanted directional velocity.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by Anom1LE

I recently purchased a D1x and it's going on a SBE like your friends.
What pulley setup did he go with when he pullied it down? I am looking
to downsize the pulley for the earlier boost and 6500RPM shift point.
I will get the pistons/rods/heads/cam/extrasawce as I go along, but this
is where I am at currently and don't want the so called "boost lag".

https://www.procharger.com/supercharger-calculators/

you can put in your lower pully upper pulley rpm and this will give you blower rpm. it has the 4 gear raito. But remember at max of 62000 blower speed its rated 1000 hp given variables lol Im spinning 55000 and its very strong

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Anom1LE

I recently purchased a D1x and it's going on a SBE like your friends.
What pulley setup did he go with when he pullied it down? I am looking
to downsize the pulley for the earlier boost and 6500RPM shift point.
I will get the pistons/rods/heads/cam/extrasawce as I go along, but this
is where I am at currently and don't want the so called "boost lag".

I believe it was standard lower with 4.25 upper.

There is no real lag. The pulley combo will dictate what rpm it starts to make boost and then it will increase linear with RPM.

[Kerry]

Yea i meant to say that the 2 common sizes are 7.65 with the stock crank shaft pulley, and the ati balancer that replaces the crank pulley will be an 8.25. A lot of times the upper pulley will have it stamped on the front

[oldman]

Originally Posted by KL01

I would like the motor to spin more but the shop that installed the cam and piston/ rods kept it to stock rpm. I'll have to call procharger to see what pulley setup they recommend.

the reason IMO to cam, rod and piston a centri setup is to get that extra RPM, it is torque that kills the drivetrain and on a street tire car can't be hooked to the ground. You really need to up the RPM to 7200 RPM, check or change your valve springs every 20K miles. In this way you are not increasing torque much but you are getting a huge increase in power, that "only 500 RPM" is about 25% of the power curve and all the peak power of a centri, it also puts you 500 RPM higher in the RPM in the next gear (about)... plus is is sheer music to listen to a 7200 RPM boosted engine and since my car is a street toy, the sound thru the gears is a far more meaningful to me, that some dyno number.

Nutshell, you put a cam, rods and pistons to spin the engine higher to make more power and use the D1X's boost curve, by keeping a 6500 RPM which is 700 RPM below what it should be, you need to build a WHOLE lot more torque, and a WHOLE lot more cylinder pressure for the same HP over the curve, probably better off with a ported stock blower.

I assume you are running a fuel system to support this, I have always been of the opinion that pure DI, sub 6ms is optimal for a street engine, as you go to cheaper routes, you need bigger margins of error, like lower CR, much more meth, spin the engine higher to keep the midlevel torque / cylinder pressure at bay. Of course now that I'm limited to 92 octane in Hawaii, I may start singing a different tune, I miss E85 pump!

I went back and read the OP, you should not pulley down on your fuel setup, E85 is completely out of the question. You don't run out of fuel, you run out of injector window. I'm even assuming you have a big fuel lobe on the cam, even then, no wonder the shop limited RPM to 6500 as the injector window was probably frighteningly long. From memory my p1c with cam lobe lt1 hpfp was really limited on gas to the 4” pulley or whatever came in the stock kit. Lt4 pump and injectors just gave me some safety. Don’t recall the boost but ported heads and headers actually lowered the boost let’s just say about 10 psi at 6800 rpm full breathing lt1 pump gas lt4 pump and injectors. Going from memory now but I needed the LPE HPFP and LPE injectors for the D1x and 3.85 to 3.65 pulley 7200 rpm on E85 on a full built setup.

[KL01]

Originally Posted by oldman

Nutshell, you put a cam, rods and pistons to spin the engine higher to make more power and use the D1X's boost curve, by keeping a 6500 RPM which is 700 RPM below what it should be, you need to build a WHOLE lot more torque, and a WHOLE lot more cylinder pressure for the same HP over the curve, probably better off with a ported stock blower.

Will let the new tuner see what he thinks about increasing rpms. I have the piston/rods and cam.

Originally Posted by oldman

I assume you are running a fuel system to support this, I have always been of the opinion that pure DI, sub 6ms is optimal for a street engine, as you go to cheaper routes, you need bigger margins of error, like lower CR, much more meth, spin the engine higher to keep the midlevel torque / cylinder pressure at bay. Of course now that I'm limited to 92 octane in Hawaii, I may start singing a different tune, I miss E85 pump!

As of now I have the LT4 hpfp/ injectors, DSX aux fuel pump. Will also be installing a meth kit. I also have access to E.

[laynlo15]

I love the sound of the ProCharger but sure wished they'd figured out somewhere else to put the filter. Just seems like it would get a lot of hot air with that placement.

[oldman]

I made a sheet metal tray that sits under the filter, removal of driver’s side aux radiator is also helpful.

[Kerry]

I tried a few things to minimize that. Shields, heat wrap as a shield. In the end it made it worse never better. (I think when driving down the road theirs alot of air moving past their and keeping things cooler . Taking the hood bottom vent seemed to help. I moved the intake air sensor to the bottom of the outside of the filter so it was closes to the ex man fold for testing and doing the same speed engine off ect. Idleing of course is the worse or like in traffic