NPP relearn?

ZLRob · 07-02-2022, 05:36 PM

Long story short, the dipshit who installed my exhaust didn't plug in the passenger side NPP actuator. I discovered it about a week after while I was looking at the valves positioning to make sure both of them were closed and all seemed to be okay. Fast forward to now, one side closes and the other is wide open. It seems like it wants to work, but it stops itself.

I'm thinking I need a relearn of some kind, but I'm not sure if that's actually a "thing." Is there another way to actually reset the positions on these valves? Fuse pull then reinstall perhaps?

I'd really hate to go to the dealer over something so trivial, but I don't like how the one valve is just sitting there wide ass open.

NG329 · 07-02-2022, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Long story short, the dipshit who installed my exhaust didn't plug in the passenger side NPP actuator. I discovered it about a week after while I was looking at the valves positioning to make sure both of them were closed and all seemed to be okay. Fast forward to now, one side closes and the other is wide open. It seems like it wants to work, but it stops itself.

I'm thinking I need a relearn of some kind, but I'm not sure if that's actually a "thing." Is there another way to actually reset the positions on these valves? Fuse pull then reinstall perhaps?

I'd really hate to go to the dealer over something so trivial, but I don't like how the one valve is just sitting there wide ass open.

Have you tried removing the fuse to see if they both open? ...also disco-deco the battery?

Mark114 · 07-02-2022, 05:50 PM

The actuators bolt on to the exhaust valves. It’s possible that they had the valve in the wrong position when they installed it? You may just need to remove the actuator, reposition the valve, and reinstall the actuator.

ZLRob · 07-02-2022, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark114

The actuators bolt on to the exhaust valves. It’s possible that they had the valve in the wrong position when they installed it? You may just need to remove the actuator, reposition the valve, and reinstall the actuator.

I thought those things only bolt in one way? It sure seems like it does.

ZLRob · 07-02-2022, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NG329

Have you tried removing the fuse to see if they both open? ...also disco-deco the battery?

I haven't tried doing the disconnect reconnect procedure yet. Is there anything special I need to know about doing that before doing it? You don't need to open the doors or lower the windows all the way or anything do you?

ZLRob · 07-02-2022, 09:56 PM

Just wanted to update this:

I pulled both motors off, they didn't seem impeded in movement in any way, but the driver's side connector was not fully engaged because the weatherproof seal was blocking it from fully doing so.

I had to do what I did with the passenger side previously and had to remove the small gasket within the connector and add a dab of Vaseline on it to allow it to slide in and out of the connection without disturbing it from fully seating.

Afterwards I just flipped both motors mounting locations, ensured they were both set in the open position as the valves were fully open upon disconnection of the connectors and that solved the issue.

So one of two things could be happening here.

A. The NPP motor was indeed mounted upside down as Mark114 suggested
Or
B. The motor is starting to fail intermittently and I just happened to catch it (which is now located on the driver's side).

Everything works as it's supposed to now, so perhaps the guy who did my exhaust did a switcheroo with the motors without noticing which made the side which was not working be stuck in the open position.

Interestingly enough, some of the drone which I had got slightly cut out of the equation now when in stealth mode as well since both valves are now closing off the less muffled side of the exhaust.

I'll have to monitor it for a while and just make sure everything is good to go. Thanks for the help guys!

LeonardS · 07-03-2022, 06:02 AM

Get yourself a tube of dielectric grease for those weatherpac connectors.

ZLRob · 07-03-2022, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeonardS

Get yourself a tube of dielectric grease for those weatherpac connectors.

Are they not that great at keeping water out without the grease?

LeonardS · 07-04-2022, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Are they not that great at keeping water out without the grease?

It creates a better electrical connection and makes it easier to install them.

ZLRob · 07-04-2022, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeonardS

It creates a better electrical connection and makes it easier to install them.

Oh, right right. Maybe next time I have all that stuff off because I've dealt with enough drama on this exhaust for my blood in the last month. Lol.

LeonardS · 07-04-2022, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Oh, right right. Maybe next time I have all that stuff off because I've dealt with enough drama on this exhaust for my blood in the last month. Lol.

At least it’s working now, so good job figuring it out!

07-02-2022, 05:36 PM	#1
ZLRob Super Stock Drives: Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: May 2022 Location: Concordia Posts: 1,004	NPP relearn? Long story short, the dipshit who installed my exhaust didn't plug in the passenger side NPP actuator. I discovered it about a week after while I was looking at the valves positioning to make sure both of them were closed and all seemed to be okay. Fast forward to now, one side closes and the other is wide open. It seems like it wants to work, but it stops itself. I'm thinking I need a relearn of some kind, but I'm not sure if that's actually a "thing." Is there another way to actually reset the positions on these valves? Fuse pull then reinstall perhaps? I'd really hate to go to the dealer over something so trivial, but I don't like how the one valve is just sitting there wide ass open. __________________ 2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi 758 HP/ 804 TQ

07-02-2022, 09:56 PM	#6
ZLRob Super Stock Drives: Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: May 2022 Location: Concordia Posts: 1,004	Just wanted to update this: I pulled both motors off, they didn't seem impeded in movement in any way, but the driver's side connector was not fully engaged because the weatherproof seal was blocking it from fully doing so. I had to do what I did with the passenger side previously and had to remove the small gasket within the connector and add a dab of Vaseline on it to allow it to slide in and out of the connection without disturbing it from fully seating. Afterwards I just flipped both motors mounting locations, ensured they were both set in the open position as the valves were fully open upon disconnection of the connectors and that solved the issue. So one of two things could be happening here. A. The NPP motor was indeed mounted upside down as Mark114 suggested Or B. The motor is starting to fail intermittently and I just happened to catch it (which is now located on the driver's side). Everything works as it's supposed to now, so perhaps the guy who did my exhaust did a switcheroo with the motors without noticing which made the side which was not working be stuck in the open position. Interestingly enough, some of the drone which I had got slightly cut out of the equation now when in stealth mode as well since both valves are now closing off the less muffled side of the exhaust. I'll have to monitor it for a while and just make sure everything is good to go. Thanks for the help guys! __________________ 2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi 758 HP/ 804 TQ

07-03-2022, 06:02 AM	#7
LeonardS Drives: 1969 Z28,1992 Z28,1994 Z28,1999 SS Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: Jamestown, ND Posts: 1,154	Get yourself a tube of dielectric grease for those weatherpac connectors. __________________ 24 2SS 1LE, Riptide Blue, A10, PDR. Picked up 11/5/23, 560 miles. 23 ZLE Rapid Blue, M6. 6/27/22 TPW. Off assembly line on July 12th, 2022. To Dealer August 6th. Delivered August 8th. 129 miles. 99 SS Vert, Hugger Orange, A4, 806 miles 94 Z28, Black, M6, 595 miles 92 Z28, last car built at Van Nuys Plant, Red, A4, 125 miles www.last1992camaro.com 69 Z28, Dusk Blue, M4 29 Ford Business Coupe 28 Ford Pickup 24 GMC Denali 2500HD CCSB 4x4 22 Jeep Grand Cherokee 13 Ford F150 Crew Cab 4x4

07-02-2022, 05:50 PM	#3
Mark114 Drives: 2016 2SS Convertible Join Date: May 2012 Location: St. Louis, MO Posts: 1,780 View My Garage	The actuators bolt on to the exhaust valves. It’s possible that they had the valve in the wrong position when they installed it? You may just need to remove the actuator, reposition the valve, and reinstall the actuator.

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