[JSH]

The voice of reason. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

Without getting into crazy detail, and giving my feedback based on data we have from customer cars (chiller only, ice tank only, chiller and ice tank, stock, etc)...

Regardless of method, it all comes down to simple thermodynamics. What you are looking to do is increase the cooling capacity of the system. For the sake of simplicity, lets call our cooling agent 100% pure water. It requires 8.33 BTU of heat energy to raise one gallon of water 1 deg F. This is linear, so if you double the amount of water (2 gallons), it will either take twice the amount of heat energy to heat water 1 deg in the same time, or it will take twice the amount of time with the same fixed amount of energy.

When you add water capacity (expansion tank, ice tank, etc).... You are not changing the rate that your cooling system can remove heat from the water. What you are doing is increasing the amount of time it takes for that water to heat up.

When you change a heat exchanger, or add an interchiller, you are changing the rate that the system can remove heat from the water.

There are benefits to both. Being able to remove heat more effectively is great, and having less heat to remove is also just as great.

It is absolutely pointless arguing that one is better than the other, because you are changing two completely different parts of the system.

Both have very good benefits. The only gripe I have about the interchiller, is you are not technically allowed to run your AC at any track (drag strip or road course). The condensation/moisture build up will drip on the track, and cause a hazard.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

Without getting into crazy detail, and giving my feedback based on data we have from customer cars (chiller only, ice tank only, chiller and ice tank, stock, etc)...

Regardless of method, it all comes down to simple thermodynamics. What you are looking to do is increase the cooling capacity of the system. For the sake of simplicity, lets call our cooling agent 100% pure water. It requires 8.33 BTU of heat energy to raise one gallon of water 1 deg F. This is linear, so if you double the amount of water (2 gallons), it will either take twice the amount of heat energy to heat water 1 deg in the same time, or it will take twice the amount of time with the same fixed amount of energy.

When you add water capacity (expansion tank, ice tank, etc).... You are not changing the rate that your cooling system can remove heat from the water. What you are doing is increasing the amount of time it takes for that water to heat up.

When you change a heat exchanger, or add an interchiller, you are changing the rate that the system can remove heat from the water.

There are benefits to both. Being able to remove heat more effectively is great, and having less heat to remove is also just as great.

It is absolutely pointless arguing that one is better than the other, because you are changing two completely different parts of the system.

Both have very good benefits. The only gripe I have about the interchiller, is you are not technically allowed to run your AC at any track (drag strip or road course). The condensation/moisture build up will drip on the track, and cause a hazard.

I don't know if all chillers are made the same, probably not, even though similar in function.

https://fiinterchillers.com/product/interchiller/

"Race mode is race track safe as no condensation will leak from the cars cabin evaporator."


When I had my stage 1 FI Interchiller on my Hellcat, I don't recall ever seeing any condensation dripping.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

I don't know if all chillers are made the same, probably not, even though similar in function.

https://fiinterchillers.com/product/interchiller/

"Race mode is race track safe as no condensation will leak from the cars cabin evaporator."


When I had my stage 1 FI Interchiller on my Hellcat, I don't recall ever seeing any condensation dripping.

Yeah none here either. When In race mode the cabin is off, there’s no dripping. My lines also while cold may only sweat a bit on my fender tank but not drip.

[Katech_Zach]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

Yeah none here either. When In race mode the cabin is off, there’s no dripping. My lines also while cold may only sweat a bit on my fender tank but not drip.

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

I don't know if all chillers are made the same, probably not, even though similar in function.

https://fiinterchillers.com/product/interchiller/

"Race mode is race track safe as no condensation will leak from the cars cabin evaporator."


When I had my stage 1 FI Interchiller on my Hellcat, I don't recall ever seeing any condensation dripping.

If there is no condensation from a race variant of any of the chiller systems, then I have no gripe. They work fairly well for what it is.

If you want the best, you do an ice tank and a chiller

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

If there is no condensation from a race variant of any of the chiller systems, then I have no gripe. They work fairly well for what it is.

If you want the best, you do an ice tank and a chiller

Ice tank really only good at the track. But for just driving on the street it’s useless. That’s kinda what most of the posts were about.

Having a couple extra gallons with the chiller itself does help though. My fender tank holds 2 gallons and seems like it’s just enough volume and not too much to heat up or take to long to cool down.

I’ve seen Water temps in the 20F range on their stage 2 system, that’s really cold. Definitely helps offset 100 degree air.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

I don't know if all chillers are made the same, probably not, even though similar in function.

https://fiinterchillers.com/product/interchiller/

"Race mode is race track safe as no condensation will leak from the cars cabin evaporator."


When I had my stage 1 FI Interchiller on my Hellcat, I don't recall ever seeing any condensation dripping.

Did you go with the thermal blanket as well?

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by clg82

Did you go with the thermal blanket as well?

I did and spacers.

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

Both have very good benefits. The only gripe I have about the interchiller, is you are not technically allowed to run your AC at any track (drag strip or road course). The condensation/moisture build up will drip on the track, and cause a hazard.

As stated before, the race version includes a setup that prevents it from dripping on the track.

But also, as I mentioned, for purely DD purposes, the chiller is better since it can be left alone. Or it is more convenient. On a race track it can go either way depending on preference. But again, the fact that you don't have to meddle with it does make it more...convenient. You're not sacrificing trunk space and you don't have to bring ice or go get ice to add to it.

Mind you, it has never been stated that one system works better than the other. Unless someone has tried and tested both systems and made a comparison then nobody can honestly make that assumption. So we're not saying the chiller works better. However there is no denying that the chiller can work at it's optimal without user interference.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

Without getting into crazy detail, and giving my feedback based on data we have from customer cars (chiller only, ice tank only, chiller and ice tank, stock, etc)...

Regardless of method, it all comes down to simple thermodynamics. What you are looking to do is increase the cooling capacity of the system. For the sake of simplicity, lets call our cooling agent 100% pure water. It requires 8.33 BTU of heat energy to raise one gallon of water 1 deg F. This is linear, so if you double the amount of water (2 gallons), it will either take twice the amount of heat energy to heat water 1 deg in the same time, or it will take twice the amount of time with the same fixed amount of energy.

When you add water capacity (expansion tank, ice tank, etc).... You are not changing the rate that your cooling system can remove heat from the water. What you are doing is increasing the amount of time it takes for that water to heat up.

When you change a heat exchanger, or add an interchiller, you are changing the rate that the system can remove heat from the water.

There are benefits to both. Being able to remove heat more effectively is great, and having less heat to remove is also just as great.

It is absolutely pointless arguing that one is better than the other, because you are changing two completely different parts of the system.

Both have very good benefits. The only gripe I have about the interchiller, is you are not technically allowed to run your AC at any track (drag strip or road course). The condensation/moisture build up will drip on the track, and cause a hazard.

This is the best explanation I've seen on this topic, thanks. At least on ethanol, we have proven that a 1400 RWHP ice tank car with hot water flowing will gain 25-30 RWHP with ice in it. Every bit counts though.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

This is the best explanation I've seen on this topic, thanks. At least on ethanol, we have proven that a 1400 RWHP ice tank car with hot water flowing will gain 25-30 RWHP with ice in it. Every bit counts though.

Does your system only run when the car is running, or can you also circulate water when the engine is off?

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by JSH

Does your system only run when the car is running, or can you also circulate water when the engine is off?

I can drain and circulate from the trunk but it runs all the time with the ignition on.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

I can drain and circulate from the trunk but it runs all the time with the ignition on.

So, you hook up a 12v generator and a battery charger while in the pits, or? [BTW my alternator is pretty sketchy and probably needs replacing]

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by JSH

So, you hook up a 12v generator and a battery charger while in the pits, or?

No, it doesn't take that much power to run the pump and the actuator that dumps the water. You run it just enough to where you feel the lines going to blower being cold.

[CW3SF]

I get that ice is inconvenient when you aren’t at the track, but doesn’t just having the extra volume of the trunk tank also help??? If so, it’s not just about the ice, which seems to be the biggest complaint on the trunk tank.

So the Katech response that both systems utilized together is the best solution makes the most sense to me.