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Old 05-17-2020, 10:04 PM   #127
GrimReaperSS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol Head View Post
There is no way you can conceivably, logically, and factually explain why anyone must open a door to back a car out. How the F can you see around the other side, for starters!!!!!

Your reasons are not solid. They’re baseless. If you cannot back a car out of a garage without opening the door you should not even be driving a car to begin with. Your inability to use mirrors or turn your head essentially forbids you from driving anything period.

THAT is a solid reason.
You are making the assumption that every shop is configured identically. If every shop were like the one pictured, where there is a garage door for every stall, sure you should be able to just back straight out no problem. For me, there is one garage door for 14 stalls (10 down the left side of the aisle and 4 down the right side). You assume salesman, lot attendants/porters never pull cars into the aisle behind mechanic stalls etc. Tell me, how do your mirrors allow you to see where the front wheels/tires are in relation to the hoist arms as you're reversing and begin to turn to make your way out of your stall? I don't know of any Camaro that currently has "sky view"/360 degree cameras. How can you see out the window to locate the left front wheel/tire on a vehicle like the 6th gen shown here where the window opening is the same height as your shoulder without opening the door and leaning over. If I know the left front wheel/tire location on one side of the hoist, I don't need to "F-ing see around to the other side" to know that it is clear as well. Where I work, the stalls are 90 degrees to the entry door to the shop. In fact, my own stall is right next to the door. Every time I enter, I must perform a 3 point turn to get into the stall straight. When reversing, I have to turn the wheel full lock once I clear the hoist arms in order to be able to drive out the door straight and not make multi-point turns to get lined up. It's wonderful with full size cars and SUV's. Especially when the contaminated fuel barrels, oil drain buckets, stacks of customer's opposing season wheel/tire packages and whatever shop equipment or body panels like bumpers are all across the aisle from my stall, making the aisle smaller. Not every car has a back-up camera as new cars do, since you mentioned that before. You better believe I use my mirrors and turn my head, use the back-up camera when available, as well as open the door to see how close I am at times to not only the hoist arms, but other vehicles and equipment in the shop.
Apologies to the OP for high-jacking your post, it was not intended. Very curious on what the dealer offers you as a solution.
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Old 05-17-2020, 10:28 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by GrimReaperSS View Post
You are making the assumption that every shop is configured identically. If every shop were like the one pictured, where there is a garage door for every stall, sure you should be able to just back straight out no problem. For me, there is one garage door for 14 stalls (10 down the left side of the aisle and 4 down the right side). You assume salesman, lot attendants/porters never pull cars into the aisle behind mechanic stalls etc. Tell me, how do your mirrors allow you to see where the front wheels/tires are in relation to the hoist arms as you're reversing and begin to turn to make your way out of your stall? I don't know of any Camaro that currently has "sky view"/360 degree cameras. How can you see out the window to locate the left front wheel/tire on a vehicle like the 6th gen shown here where the window opening is the same height as your shoulder without opening the door and leaning over. If I know the left front wheel/tire location on one side of the hoist, I don't need to "F-ing see around to the other side" to know that it is clear as well. Where I work, the stalls are 90 degrees to the entry door to the shop. In fact, my own stall is right next to the door. Every time I enter, I must perform a 3 point turn to get into the stall straight. When reversing, I have to turn the wheel full lock once I clear the hoist arms in order to be able to drive out the door straight and not make multi-point turns to get lined up. It's wonderful with full size cars and SUV's. Especially when the contaminated fuel barrels, oil drain buckets, stacks of customer's opposing season wheel/tire packages and whatever shop equipment or body panels like bumpers are all across the aisle from my stall, making the aisle smaller. Not every car has a back-up camera as new cars do, since you mentioned that before. You better believe I use my mirrors and turn my head, use the back-up camera when available, as well as open the door to see how close I am at times to not only the hoist arms, but other vehicles and equipment in the shop.
Apologies to the OP for high-jacking your post, it was not intended. Very curious on what the dealer offers you as a solution.
I almost quit reading after your laughing emojis but I figured I’d give you the benefit of the doubt. I’m picturing how your shop is configured and sure enough, there’s still no need to open the door.

Maybe a significant portion of America just simply never learned to use their mirrors and turning their heads to look back when reversing. I don’t care how many turns you need you should not need to open the door to back up.

I took my parallel parking test on a 1985 Cadillac Eldorado. The blind spots on that thing were a hundred times worse than the 6th gen Camaro thanks to that huge expanse of roof, tiny rear window, and even tinier side view mirrors. Let’s not forget the 6 ft long hood. But I whipped that puppy through the parallel test and to this day I could parallel park it in a tight spot on the street using just the mirrors.

Oh yeah, I guarantee I could back it of your worst angled lift in your shop without opening the door.
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Old 05-17-2020, 11:03 PM   #129
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Guys. I can back up a Camaro with it being in Drive with my hands tied on my back while being blindfolded with handcuffs on my ankles... Oh and the car would be a manual.

That's not what we are here to discuss haha.

Let's hear from OP and his situation.
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Old 05-18-2020, 12:04 AM   #130
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I agree. This has totally gotten out of hand!��
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Old 05-18-2020, 01:41 PM   #131
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It probably happened much simplier than that.

The service advisor was probabiy chit chatting with the tech while he was pulling the car off the lift and bam he forgot to close the door. Anyway, you would think the tech would've helped him back the car off the lift. Don't the employees help each other at these stealerships?
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Old 06-09-2020, 01:47 AM   #132
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Update?
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Old 06-09-2020, 11:49 PM   #133
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this thread definitely got out of hand. wow.

The only reason the dealer shouldn't be working with OP to get into a new (or new to OP) car is if OP doesn't want that option. Having worked for a couple dealers, and knowing 90% of the people who work there aren't trustworthy, I'd rather keep trust out of the situation. (sorry peeps who currently work for one, you may be in the 10% of good people). I'm not going to get into the "blame the whole dealer" debate but I wouldn't return unless I came out of this 100% satisfied with the outcome.

in for updates, good luck OP.

[Off Topic personal experiences] The worst I've seen is damaging a GTR door panel, taking the side mirror off a not same-brand car, and rodents that chewed through some critical wiring harnesses. All the same dealer, all not disclosed to the customer. How you replace a $4k (apparently/to my memory) door panel without telling the customer is beyond my comprehension.
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:14 PM   #134
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Alot of misinformation in this thread. I'm a property damage adjuster for automobiles and work for a major insurance carrier. All this is 100% repairable and any decent shop can bring this back to preloss condition. It's a big downer for OP but this isn't nearly as bad as replacing a quarter panel for example. Parts are only oem depending on his total mileage and model year for 95% of carriers. If he wants OEM and goes through his insurance he will pay the difference, if shop offers the repairs with OEM parts that is a good route. Hopefully the dealer made this right
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Old 06-17-2020, 03:55 PM   #135
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Hey Y'all. I just got some new information from the dealership and figured I would update the thread.

They have had my car for a little over a month now, and have not started working on it. When the car made it to the body shop, they did a second appraisal and, they found more damage and are waiting for the dealers insurance to write off on it.

Below is the new list of parts to be replaced, with an '(s)' next to what was added to the appraisal.

Left Fender
Left Emblem
Roof Panel w/o Sunroof (s)
Left Hinge Pillar Reinforcement (s)
Left Uni-side Panel (s)
Left Rocker Molding (s)
Left Hinge Pillar (s)
Left Rocker Reinforcement (s)
Left Door Shell
Left Upper Hinge (s)
Left Lower Hinge (s)
Set up and measure of the frame/uni-body and a pull for the uni-body.

They also stated that there may be firewall damage but they wont be able to find out until insurance writes off on the current appraisal.

Already this has taken their primary appraisal from about $6k to $11k.

I have not named the dealership and I'm sorry to anyone I have not responded to by PM, but I don't have plans to name the dealership currently. I understand that accidents (even ones caused by negligence) can occur and I'm not out for blood or to ask for the sky.

The advisor that caused the damage stated that the clutch "stuck", which I have never experienced in the 26-27k miles I've put on the car. From what I saw of the incident occurring the car revved a couple times and jerked backwards, and then revved and jumped back again before being stalled where the pictures show it.

I would prefer not getting a new car, as I'm not a fan of the 2019/2020 refresh that was done. It was one of the reasons why I purchased my 2018 when I did.

I'll hopefully be hearing from the body shop soon with more information and what they are doing from here and a time frame.

Again, thank you everyone for your input and hopefully my next update will have better news.
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Old 06-17-2020, 05:29 PM   #136
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I know you want to give them a chance to fix the car. With all that damage I wouldn't personally if it was my car. That car will never be the same again. If or when you ever sell it you won't get close to the book value. I know a lot of us already told you this but I would have them get you another car, the year you want. Good luck. I hope it all works out for you.
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:35 PM   #137
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Oh man, one of two things is happening here, either they really messed the car up really bad. Or, the body shop is really trying to stick it to the dealership.

Regardless, that last line, "Set up and measure of the frame/uni-body and a pull for the uni-body." Could, and probably will lead to a "structural damage" alert on Carfax. On trade in, that is almost as bad as salvage title. At a franchise dealership, it's an automatic wholesale unit.

With over 25K miles on a 2018, which isn't bad, I wouldn't expect a new car in trade. Since you don't like the refresh anyway, see if they have a similar 2018 in their network. Tell the dealership they can save the insurance claim, and their deductible, which for a dealership can be $10,000.

I could be wrong, and I could be over reacting, but I doubt it. Now would be a good time to start talking replacement of the car. Point that line out to them and say the words structural damage. Know that the dealership has no power as to whether that shows up on a Carfax or not. Regardless of what they might say.
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:49 PM   #138
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Oh man, one of two things is happening here, either they really messed the car up really bad. Or, the body shop is really trying to stick it to the dealership.

Regardless, that last line, "Set up and measure of the frame/uni-body and a pull for the uni-body." Could, and probably will lead to a "structural damage" alert on Carfax. On trade in, that is almost as bad as salvage title. At a franchise dealership, it's an automatic wholesale unit.

With over 25K miles on a 2018, which isn't bad, I wouldn't expect a new car in trade. Since you don't like the refresh anyway, see if they have a similar 2018 in their network. Tell the dealership they can save the insurance claim, and their deductible, which for a dealership can be $10,000.

I could be wrong, and I could be over reacting, but I doubt it. Now would be a good time to start talking replacement of the car. Point that line out to them and say the words structural damage. Know that the dealership has no power as to whether that shows up on a Carfax or not. Regardless of what they might say.

This is sound advice... I would not want that car back. Are they making payment(s) for you?
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:25 PM   #139
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This is sound advice... I would not want that car back. Are they making payment(s) for you?
Dealership is not obligated to make monthly payments until car is fixed. They didn't make the OP finance the car. They are only obligated to supply OP with a rental car and pay for repairs or buy the car outright.

And agreed, I wouldn't want that car back.
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Old 06-17-2020, 09:48 PM   #140
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Actually, I think they should be ...this isn’t a warranty repair, they damaged his perfectly fine / unblemished operating vehicle. This wasn’t a private party car accident, it was a large car dealership error. So...yea, they should pony up some $ for his payments. And what the heck does “they didn’t make him finance the car mean?” He didn’t “make them Fup his car” A loaner of any vehicle, other than the same make and model is fine, as long as they’re taking care of him on the other end (meaning he lost the car he wants to drive while paying for it an extended period of time). As far as I can see, the OP has been exceptionally reasonable, he could bury these guys with some pretty crappy social media...Quite frankly, the right thing to do, is for the dealership to take care of him. Not obligated and what the right thing to do is two entirely different things.

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