[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP

Looks great. I know they're more focused on being functional, but to me the tires/wheels look a little small but that's nitpicking. Would be curious to hear how it sounds with the delete as well.

I can get some drive by clips soon. Very deep, minimal rasp and slight drone at 2500ish but not a problem at all on the A10, maybe a bit riskier on a M6.

Regarding the wheels and tires, knowledge is power. She is on stock tune with a specific race gas blend and does 60-100 in 3.2 seconds from a 3rd gear roll (Dragy confirmed 3.18 seconds) give or take without headers, tune, etc, full warranty safe no MMT fuel additives or methanol or stuff just wheels and tires and an axle back and fuel (would be faster in 50 or less temps but traction limited). Used the GT350R for a benchmark for potential gains based on inertial resistance reductions for wheel and tire diameter and weight and measured gains before/after with Dragy. Worked out 1:1 for comparative changes/gains and expectations and then some as predicted, a beautiful thing. Hit me up if you wanna discuss. Basically, drop the tire size and wheel diameter too, reduce weight, maintain grip, fly.

Put it this way, bone stock dyno was 557whp and 574wtq SAE in 7th gear, 71 degree temps. She put down 614whp and 636wtq SAE in 7th in the same conditions after the mods. The crimp/etc tested by Mishimoto was on an SS and the suitcase muffler is 2.1" on the inlets inside. Small gains but room for growth when you cut out the crimps and do deletes on a ZL1 at 2.75" plus for pipe size (i'm running 3"). I am sure I will get flamed, but dynos and ET/mph dont lie. She ran 10.8 @ 132.8mph, 1.89 sec 60 ft in the 1/4 in 68 degree temps at the Commerce drag strip before the COVID bs started with this setup except the tire change I did. Max I've seen bone stock except 100 octane is 590 whp (Dynojet) on an A10 SAE in 7th and I'm 21whp above that with the axleback (on OEM tires/wheels before changing on a Dynojet SAE) and with the snow ingestion cover removed and the lighter wheels/tires.

Considering some Carbon Ceramic brakes, worth a few tenths if you do front/rear but extremely pricey, not much value for the cost.

Sharing is caring, here is the inertial resistance (and gain calculation for acceleration) that I used which was Dragy proven accurate. Proportion shown of the 60-100mph reduction is from wheels and tires, the rest is the MS109 and 93 blend I am running. Net octane is 99.1, stoichiometric average is 13.8 overall, mildly leaner than stock 14.1. Runs like a bat out of hell.

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by cirpower

It looks phenomenal! How much work was it to fit the 1LE grilles and do they fit without any issues?

Zero issues but I would but from a secondary GM wholesaler for sure. I paid about $265 for both grilles but if you were to buy from typical retailers it would have been $450 plus. Not horrible for isntall but a bit of work indeed. Removing the bumper is easy, but the harness for everything runs the length of the lower bumper and has about 20 pins (or less) into the lower bumper. An interior tool kit (for panel removal) works wonders. Once you deal with that, its just wiggling and giggling and loosening tight clips to drop the grilles out and some front/back pressure to put the new ones in. Very doable, just have patience. Used painters tape around the edge of the grilles to avoid any rubs/scratches during removal and assembly. The front upper/lower 1LE grilles are direct swap, not a thing required for the splitter/otherwise as seen in the pics, but I had mine paint matched as I didnt want flat plastic grilles etc.

Shipping aint the cheapest but if you wanna remove your OEM spoiler or mirrors, I can get mirrors painted or spoiler as mine was done for 300 per each (mirror pair, or spoiler). Local shop does crazy good work. Shipping extra.

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by Mize442

Thank you for this info. I did find the module you mentioned and mine was partially loose. I pushed down then wiggled it a bit only to find it pop back out. I put a piece of a high density wedge foam I had between it and the deck lid to hold it in place. I think that is what you were talking about.
Thank you
Mizer

Yes that module tends to pop out for sure, if you just put some Dynamat or Noico absorbent mat (amazon.com..) on the prongs that it clips with, it will fix it right up. I actually put the foam rectangle "wedge" further behind it (closer to decklid) in the open area between the decklid cover and the decklid frame (not between the module and the decklid plastic cover), but if it worked for you, CHEERS!

[Zigg L1]

I am dropping my car off next week for some paint work on the spoiler and mirrors!! Giddy up. Gonna look sweet!!

[PROMETHEUS]

Looks good with the black accent pieces.

[Pupilbone]

Looks clean, great job.

Haven’t noticed the rattles you’re talking about yet, but I’ll be following your lead with the foam wedge this weekend. Cheers!