[Stephen12ZL1]

These cars do not hold alignments very well at all with the stock components. BMR parts without eccentrics will definitely help. If your car begins to get darty and nervous feeling, the alignment is definitely the first thing to check.

[Swift016]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

These cars do not hold alignments very well at all with the stock components. BMR parts without eccentrics will definitely help. If your car begins to get darty and nervous feeling, the alignment is definitely the first thing to check.

I had alignment done with new tty rear bolts and just did the first track day at Road Atlanta.
The rear was slightly toed in... above 130mph, the rear felt real darty.... almost like it was toed out.

Is this normal for this car, or should I recheck rear toe in !

Thanks,
Bill

[TWG1]

I love these things. Roughly the cost of one alignment and frankly easier than dealing with tire shops. Had a track alignment done at local dealer, steering wheel was 7 degrees skewed. I returned it and it was halfway better. Fed up and now do it myself.

I park front wheels on garage floor over trash bags and make adjustments myself. The measurements I get are very repeatable. I did a track event with a (much faster) friend sharing my car and verified a 1/8” toe shift afterwards. I fixed it in 10 min. I do find that the car is very sensitive. Example: a 90” turn on each tie rod will give you ~1/16” toe, which is enough to put you out of spec.

I find the camber measurements aren’t as repeatable with the electronic level they provide, but as others have said; it doesn’t seem to wander as much. I sometimes use another electronic level and average both readings. Note, I wouldn’t recommend this DIY tool for rear, as it’ll mess up your thrust angle (tail wag the rear end) without a string measurement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PK...lja1JlZGlyZWN0

[amolaver]

I'm not familiar with those specific toe plates, but 'normal' toe plates have a rather large drawback..they measure total toe rather than per wheel.

Imagine the driver's side wheel is toed out 1/8 and passenger side is toed in 1/8. Toe plates say zero toe.

A string box works, just slow to setup and use relative to a rack. Also always have to keep in mind the hysteresis of rubber bushings - unless your solid rod end on every joint, the rubber can cause inconsistent measurements.

ahm

[Techdude99]

I ran into a similar issue with my steering wheel. Dealer fixed it but it was a waste of my time needing to go back.

What's a good tool for the rear?

[juice3]

Buy the BRM or Garage Therapy Setup.

Toe moves under factory bolts. Plain and simple. My alignment lasted 5 laps at VIR on stock bolts.








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[juice3]

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[TWG1]

Originally Posted by amolaver

I'm not familiar with those specific toe plates, but 'normal' toe plates have a rather large drawback..they measure total toe rather than per wheel.

Imagine the driver's side wheel is toed out 1/8 and passenger side is toed in 1/8. Toe plates say zero toe.

ahm

All that happens in that case is your steering wheel is crooked. The caster still keeps the car centered and stable down the road, but with a crooked steering wheel. It’s not a big deal, doesn’t hurt anything, and you just make another adjustment.

Your point is valid on the rear tho, which is why you have to measure individually out back to control thrust angle. Can’t use toe plates there.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by Swift016

I had alignment done with new tty rear bolts and just did the first track day at Road Atlanta.
The rear was slightly toed in... above 130mph, the rear felt real darty.... almost like it was toed out.

Is this normal for this car, or should I recheck rear toe in !

Thanks,
Bill

I would check everything again...people that go higher than -2.7 camber front have experienced a darty feeling too...sometimes it is too much camber front vs rear. If you are at -2.7 front, put the rear at -2.2ish and see what happens. Double check toe as you stated.

[ZRacerLE]

Thinking about trying the local Firestone first for the track alignment. Should I bring them replacement bolts?

[TWG1]

Originally Posted by juice3

Buy the BRM or Garage Therapy Setup

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That’s a good setup. Parts look like good quality. I did not see anything on Garage Therapy for our cars. I assume those are BMR?

[Zl1+911]

Juice3 which exact BMR parts did you put in? Looks like there are three - toe rod, upper and lower control arms? Also what about fixed vs. Adjustable? With fixed does it not allow for camber/toe alignment (which will be needed for track). Thx for clarifying

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by TWG1

That’s a good setup. Parts look like good quality. I did not see anything on Garage Therapy for our cars. I assume those are BMR?

Garage Therapy owners used to both own ZL1 1LEs and have since sold them. They had a run of these parts but have ceased the production of their cages, toe bars, brake ducts, etc. If they have enough interest they might make Camaro parts again.

[racer01]

Originally Posted by ZRacerLE

Thinking about trying the local Firestone first for the track alignment. Should I bring them replacement bolts?

I brought my local alignment bolts (4 bolts needed for rear camber and toe adjustment) and they charged me a small fee on top of the alignment to install them. Super simple.
I went ahead and printed out the GM track specs for camber and toe, and printed out the very specific (an unusual) torque plus angle specs for all the front and rear bolts.

I talked to my local place ahead of time to let them know what I wanted and took it at a time where the alignment guy wasn't in a hurry and left it with them all day. They still called and said they couldn't get any additional front camber at first so i had to explain to them how to loosen the bolts and "smack it with a hammer" to get to -1.9 in the front.