[Scottyz]

Originally Posted by slvr162ss

We'll see. Tried to convince dealer to do an oil analysis but it was like talking to a wall. They just replace the pump and do a cold start. If it runs then it's good. I think I'll pull an oil sample after 1,000 miles and send it to Blackstone Labs (assuming it lasts that long).

Smart move. I don’t think I would wait a 1000. Just my opinion.

[ZedLOne]

I didn't see posted here but i believe Melling makes the oil pump in question. In case anyone was insterested. I also have a car built in 10/17 with 2800 miles but no problems yet.No major mods. Fingers crossed.

[RAT Raceway]

Looking like they figured something out for the 19 cars... Hopefully the number stays ZERO!

[TheMailMan0]

I wonder if oil weight has anything to do with this, I've been using 0 / 40 since first oil change. So far so good, I do know GM recommended 0/40. I'm no mechanic but I do know enough to get by and do understand 0/40 would be better at higher temps and under load/ Overheat issues have arisen on these cars. Potentially 0/40 is the bandaid?

[LT4]

Originally Posted by bobby35ny

Just spit balling average numbers here, not exact.
They made 10k zl1s in 17 and 18 combined.
figure they build 10 months a year, that's 500 zl1s a month.
8 months of questionable pumps, that's 4,000 cars for the "bad" period.
25 bad pumps here in the forums, double or triple that number for people not on the forums, heck X4 its 100 bad pumps.
4000 cars, 100 pumps, I THINK the odds are in our favor. but what the hell do I know!!

More like 10x is the number who don't know about this forum (let alone this thread), so figure 250 pumps will go bad on ZL1s, and even more SS's. Figure about 25% of those will need new engines. It might make automotive news, but not enough to hurt the brand in the long run. hell, it won't even warrant a class action lawsuit which are a dime a dozen these days.

Just hope they go bad in the first 5 years / 60K.

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by TheMailMan0

I wonder if oil weight has anything to do with this, I've been using 0 / 40 since first oil change. So far so good, I do know GM recommended 0/40. I'm no mechanic but I do know enough to get by and do understand 0/40 would be better at higher temps and under load/ Overheat issues have arisen on these cars. Potentially 0/40 is the bandaid?

Using 5w30 vs 0w40 should not cause an oil pump to fail. The failures are the result of a defect in the design, manufacturing process, metallurgy issue, etc.

For example, with a serious oil starvation event the most common engine failure occurs in the bearings resulting in damaged bearings, or even spun bearing(s) causing rod knock or a seizure breaking the rod.

[Artos]

Originally Posted by slvr162ss

We'll see. Tried to convince dealer to do an oil analysis but it was like talking to a wall. They just replace the pump and do a cold start. If it runs then it's good. I think I'll pull an oil sample after 1,000 miles and send it to Blackstone Labs (assuming it lasts that long).

Sorry if I missed it, but What part of the pump do they say is starting to fail where analysis could possibly catch it...do we know what to look for after the lab sends the 411??

I just assumed most were catastrophically letting go due to a bad casting / machining or something along those lines & didn't consider being able to detect a premature problem. Gotta bunch buddies in the oil patch who deal turning in samples every week & would be willing to look into it if we could indeed see a culprit.

[Dixie ZL1]

I had an indication my pump was failing but didn’t realize it. Probably coincidentally, my dealer switched to 0W-40 for my second complimentary oil change (I did one in between with 5W-30) and my at hot at idle oil pressure dropped to 20PSI within about two weeks. One week later the pump failed.

I can’t confirm, but I suspect the drop in oil pressure was due to onset of the failure that degraded over the next 100 or so miles. I now use 5W-30 street and 15W-50 track and watch idle pressure closely.

[Goohead]

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

I don't want to go through the whole thread again, but I saw at least 4 different part numbers in screen shots/photos/info that people have posted.

edit - Screw it...

12686434 - Found on Les7311's post here. This seems to be what is a current part as of just two months ago.
12677142 - Found on cornerjunkie's post here
12673985
12666738
12665357
12661760
12661207
12659936
12658377

Ok so found this thread looking for an oil pump part number.

Can anyone advise which part # to use for the move revised wet sump pump? And has failure issues been addressed with the superseded part #?

[IrocTodd]

mine was built 7/17 3900 miles no problems yet. might be sending car to Jennety racing so we will be changing oil pump if I go that route.

[Zigg L1]

Looks like Katech has a replacement pump. High flow better pressure. Be cool If it was a quick bolt on replacement and not have to take the engine apart. It would be worth it

[JonDaddy82]

Originally Posted by Zigg L1

Looks like Katech has a replacement pump. High flow better pressure. Be cool If it was a quick bolt on replacement and not have to take the engine apart. It would be worth it

You're most likely looking at the one for the dry sump Corvette.

[Zigg L1]

Yes you are correct. That won't work!

[laynlo15]

I picked mine up February 16 so not sure of the build date. The first pump did not fail and had 180 passes down the track and 12600 miles. I built a new forged bottom end and installed a new pump, it failed after approx. 100 miles and 50-60 passes. Spun at least 2 mains and roasted the rod bearing. Don't know about the cam bearings/cam as I don't have it all apart and out of the car yet.