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Old 07-03-2019, 09:05 PM   #1
Osbornsm
 
Drives: 2018 SS 1LE
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New speakers = whine w/ headlights

Hey all, I have Infinity component speakers which are driving me mad.
They whine as soon as i open the door, because of the DRL. if I turn on the headlights, it whines like me EX.
I have an SS 1LE, meaning no stock amp. So I have a 4-chan Alpine amp.

The crossovers for the speakers is near the footwell.

1. Would moving the crossover to the trunk help the whine or make it worse, because of longer wire?
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Old 07-03-2019, 11:45 PM   #2
weatherman71
 
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redo your ground.... or buy a ground loop isolator
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Old 07-04-2019, 12:42 AM   #3
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I had the same problem. The driverside footwell has wiring going to the DRLs that is picked up by the crossover. Try relocating the crossover or using a DSP.

Even with the stock system there is some whine but it is barely noticeable.
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Old 07-04-2019, 09:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weatherman71 View Post
redo your ground.... or buy a ground loop isolator

The ground loop isolator I tried made the whine 5x worse.
So that's not the key.

What else yah got
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:04 PM   #5
drfeelgood

 
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1st - buy new speakers. No level of infinity driver is worth paying money for. Whether you want OEM replacement or audio grade drivers, go with HAT (Hybrid Audio Technologies) https://hybrid-audio.com/ . Better speakers at every price point, than pretty much any driver in the world. Almost every IASCA competition is dominated by cars using HAT drivers

2nd - either place the component crossovers in the trunk and/or go with an active crossover setup using a DSP like a Hertz H8 https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/h8-dsp/ or Audison BitOne https://www.audison.eu/products/bit-one/ (in conjunction with either an AMPPro https://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ap4-gm61-.../dp/B07B6P77TK or NavTV M650GM https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT838/m650-gm.html)
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfeelgood View Post
1st - buy new speakers. No level of infinity driver is worth paying money for. Whether you want OEM replacement or audio grade drivers, go with HAT (Hybrid Audio Technologies) https://hybrid-audio.com/.


2nd - either place the component crossovers in the trunk and/or go with an active crossover setup using a DSP like a Hertz H8 https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/h8-dsp/ or Audison BitOne https://www.audison.eu/products/bit-one/ (in conjunction with either an AMPPro https://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ap4-gm61-.../dp/B07B6P77TK or NavTV M650GM https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT838/m650-gm.html)

Well thanks for tip #1 but that cat is out of the bag already.
As for #2, i think the crossovers are going in the trunk!!!


Otherwise i'm gonna do some research on the DSP.
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osbornsm View Post
Well thanks for tip #1 but that cat is out of the bag already.
As for #2, i think the crossovers are going in the trunk!!!


Otherwise i'm gonna do some research on the DSP.
I remember when someone first told me about Hybrid Audio, I was like 🙄
Yeah yeah yeah, another company claiming to be the best. At the time, I was using the old Diamond Audio components, which sounded great.

I decided to give HAT a chance, I went with their Legatia lime and was blown away. With the rights amps, these things are crystal clear.

Company was founded by a guy named Scott Buwalda , an electrical engineer who was winning sound comps using other top brands, and he decided to create a speaker line superior to the completion at a better price point. Think Focal Utopia, Rainbow, Scanspeak, Dynaudio but actually affordable!

I could go on and on about them, and I’m not even sponsored by them or anything, just passing on good advice! All of my vehicles only have HAT drivers! There may be better amplifiers and subwoofers, but no company makes better speakers than Hybrid Audio!
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 07-11-2019, 06:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfeelgood View Post
I remember when someone first told me about Hybrid Audio, I was like 🙄
Yeah yeah yeah, another company claiming to be the best. At the time, I was using the old Diamond Audio components, which sounded great.

I decided to give HAT a chance, I went with their Legatia lime and was blown away. With the rights amps, these things are crystal clear.

Company was founded by a guy named Scott Buwalda , an electrical engineer who was winning sound comps using other top brands, and he decided to create a speaker line superior to the completion at a better price point. Think Focal Utopia, Rainbow, Scanspeak, Dynaudio but actually affordable!

I could go on and on about them, and I’m not even sponsored by them or anything, just passing on good advice! All of my vehicles only have HAT drivers! There may be better amplifiers and subwoofers, but no company makes better speakers than Hybrid Audio!
I went with them in my last Camaro. Replaced all the speakers with them. I didn't amp them and maybe that was my problem but they were definitely not as loud and I didn't notice any change in clarity. Now I know that I should have amped them but at the time I was piecing the system together in steps. Had to trade in the car due to an emergency so I never got the experience of hearing them amped.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:46 AM   #9
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A friend of mine told me that audible physics are really good as well.....
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red_johnny View Post
I went with them in my last Camaro. Replaced all the speakers with them. I didn't amp them and maybe that was my problem but they were definitely not as loud and I didn't notice any change in clarity. Now I know that I should have amped them but at the time I was piecing the system together in steps. Had to trade in the car due to an emergency so I never got the experience of hearing them amped.
So first question, which ones did you go with?

I only put Legatia SE and Legatia Pro speakers in my car. (The others are good enough, but not audiophile iMO. Although the Clarus components were once rated by a magazine as the best overall component they have ever heard at ANY price point)

Also I run them actively crossed over with a DSP. Lastly, I use very high quality amps. In my CTS-V I am running Audison Voce 4 channel and 5 channels amps , with an Audison SR2 to the rear components for rear fill (3 amps total) , along with an Audison ButPlay HD , Audison Bitone, and two batcaps.

In my ZL1, I am running HAT Legatia L1V2 tweeters, with L2SE midrange, L6SE midbass, Imagine 6.5" for rear fill (plus 2 x 6" subs and 1 x 10" sub) and using Hertz Mille Pro 1 channel, 4 channel, and 5 channel amps, with a Hertz H8 and NavTV M650GM processors, and two bat caps.

I mention all of that because, every part of the build is important. The best speakers will sound not so good if you don't have high quality amplifiers running them. And it's not just about power. 75watts from a HIFi Class A amp will sound much better and cleaner than 150 watts from a class AB amp.

So yes, if you put HAT drivers in with no amplifier, it is unlikely to sound much better than you average driver. But with the right amplifier, they sound amazing.

Oh and regarding the doors, for their midbass drivers, the door needs to be sealed properly, or it will sound like crap.
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'17 White ZL1 A10 Convertible - TM ported TB - RotoFab CAI - 2.3" griptech upper pulley - Kooks 1 7/8" Headers with High Flow Cats - Borla S-type Catback - Audio Overhaul - NavTV M650-GM - 20" BlackDiForza- Michelin Pilot Sport4S - Tuned at BRC Raceworks (606rwhp/675trq)

'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

'17 Maserati Levante- STOCK

Last edited by drfeelgood; 07-12-2019 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headgamez View Post
A friend of mine told me that audible physics are really good as well.....
there's a lot of good companies out there. Usually, its the less well known ones.

There is nothing from Pioneer, Sony, Infinity, MB Quart that is considered audiophile grade.
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'17 White ZL1 A10 Convertible - TM ported TB - RotoFab CAI - 2.3" griptech upper pulley - Kooks 1 7/8" Headers with High Flow Cats - Borla S-type Catback - Audio Overhaul - NavTV M650-GM - 20" BlackDiForza- Michelin Pilot Sport4S - Tuned at BRC Raceworks (606rwhp/675trq)

'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 07-12-2019, 02:37 AM   #12
red_johnny

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfeelgood View Post
So first question, which ones did you go with?

I only put Legatia SE and Legatia Pro speakers in my car. (The others are good enough, but not audiophile iMO. Although the Clarus components were once rated by a magazine as the best overall component they have ever heard at ANY price point)

Also I run them actively crossed over with a DSP. Lastly, I use very high quality amps. In my CTS-V I am running Audison Voce 4 channel and 5 channels amps , with an Audison SR2 to the rear components for rear fill (3 amps total) , along with an Audison ButPlay HD , Audison Bitone, and two batcaps.

In my ZL1, I am running HAT Legative L1V2 tweeters, with L2SE midrange, L6SE midbass, Imagine 6.5" for rear fill (plus 2 6" subs and 1 10" sub) and using Hertz Mille Pro 1 channel, 5 channel, and mono amps, with a Hertz H8 and NavTV M650GM processors, and two bat caps.

I mention all of that because, every part of the build is important. The best speakers will sound not so good if you don't have high quality amplifiers running them. And it's not just about power. 75watts from a HIFi Class A amp will sound much better and cleaner than 150 watts from a class AB amp.

So yes, if you put HAT drivers in with no amplifier, it is unlikely to sound much better than you average driver. But with the right amplifier, they sound amazing.

Oh and regarding the doors, for their midbass drivers, the door needs to be sealed properly, or it will sound like crap.
Clarus are the series I went with. But I agree with you, I just didn't have the time or money to get the amps before I sold it. I am positive that once I amplified it and added some caps that it would have been a good system. I only brought up my experience to show that if you are going to do it right you need to do it all at once. Meaning, upgrade the speakers then you must amp them. I did use a lot of sound deadening material on the majority of the interior.
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Old 07-12-2019, 12:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red_johnny View Post
Clarus are the series I went with. But I agree with you, I just didn't have the time or money to get the amps before I sold it. I am positive that once I amplified it and added some caps that it would have been a good system. I only brought up my experience to show that if you are going to do it right you need to do it all at once. Meaning, upgrade the speakers then you must amp them. I did use a lot of sound deadening material on the majority of the interior.
Yes sir! you are 100% correct. And don't even get me started on sound deadening. That can be another few hundred pounds and few hundred dollars, but done correctly it dramatically improves the sound of your audio.
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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