[sevron]

Have this problem with my '23 Camaro LT1 where sometimes it will not want to accelerate. I'll be stopped at a light and when I go, I have to press the gas a couple times pretty much down to the floor before it will actually go. I'm not able to reliably reproduce it though, it just happens randomly. Other times when its stopped, but running (ie. at a stoplight) I'll have to press the gas multiple times or pump it to just get it to start and go. And of course when I do that it makes me feel like a douche because the car then revs and is loud as hell and makes me look like I'm just doing it for shits and giggles.


I took it to the dealership to have it looked at and they said it was due to me having corrosion on my battery which was due to the car not being used that much. Bought the car brand new at the end of 2022, and this is the first time I've had to take it in for an issue it was having. I have less than 15k miles on it, mostly highway miles.


I paid the diagnostic fee, left it for 2 days. Picked it up to a $200 diagnostic fee, $300 for a new battery and $140 for oil/tire pressure. Only to have the exact same problem exist the very next day.


What could be causing this issue? The only mod I've done to it was installing a Rotofab CAI and a Borla Axle Back exhaust (which I doubt is the cause), can't remember if it was oiled or dry, it was the cheaper version, which probably shouldn't of been the decided factor but here we are.

[bishopts]

I have that problem on certain road surfaces. The tires will spin leaving the stop and the traction control is slow to respond with a flashing skid light. I tested the theory once , i put all my wheel speed sensors on a graph overlapping each other. You would be surprised how much spin you get and never know it's happening.

I'm not sure if this is your problem but it's food for thought.

[sevron]

It doesn't even rev or anything unless I accelerate multiple times. I was thinking maybe not getting enough air in, but I'm not really sure.

[Mark114]

Do you have any diagnostic errors codes? The accelerator pedal and throttle body are both electronic. If the engine isn’t responding to the accelerator pedal then maybe one of them has a problem? I would disconnect the battery and then check the electrical connections on both. I would also check the MAF sensor connection since you installed a CAI. Look for corrosion or other problems. Clean up the connections and reassemble. If the problem persists then I would replace the accelerator pedal next. They aren’t terribly expensive or difficult to replace. Hope this helps.

[sevron]

Originally Posted by Mark114

Do you have any diagnostic errors codes? The accelerator pedal and throttle body are both electronic. If the engine isn’t responding to the accelerator pedal then maybe one of them has a problem? I would disconnect the battery and then check the electrical connections on both. I would also check the MAF sensor connection since you installed a CAI. Look for corrosion or other problems. Clean up the connections and reassemble. If the problem persists then I would replace the accelerator pedal next. They aren’t terribly expensive or difficult to replace. Hope this helps.

No error codes on the display. I would of hoped having it in for service/diagnostic would have checked things like this at least for the price.


I will check the MAF sensor and see what it looks like.

[bishopts]

highly doubt its an APP, the pedal sensor has 2 sensors built into it for redundancy. so in order for it to fail with no codes or full out limp mode activated, it would need for both internal sensors to fail in the exact same way to the exact extent.
when one sensor fails and the other doesnt it will trip a APP signal 1\2 correlation fault and for the most part turn the throttle pedal off with engine light, service stabilitrac light, reduced engine power light, car sliding off the road light.

if it were throttle body it would do the same thing. because it has the same type of redundant sensor setup with the TPS.

now a mechanical failure in the APP like the bolt is loose and when you press it then its moving the whole sensor, that could cause that.

MAF failure would be more of incorrect fueling but the throttle would still open and the car would try to rev, it would just run like crap if it even would stay running.

the lack of consistency is the hurdle to overcome. i would try different driving modes and also try turning traction control off just to force different aspects into the mix to see if it changes anything. maybe if it does it at a light, drive around the block to come back to that light and try it again in the same spot.
as a mechanic one of the hardest things to deal with is the vehicle failing every now and then.

[sevron]

Thank you for the detailed post bishopts!


I keep it in Sport mode literally 100% of the time. Will see if it happens more or less in the other modes (Tour/Ice).


When it does occur, it usually feels like nothing happens and then tries to fire off, then when releasing and pressing down again it'll stutter like and then go. Sometimes I have to do it a couple times in quick succession and then it sounds like I'm just revving because I'm pressing the gas so many times.

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by sevron

Thank you for the detailed post bishopts!


I keep it in Sport mode literally 100% of the time. Will see if it happens more or less in the other modes (Tour/Ice).


When it does occur, it usually feels like nothing happens and then tries to fire off, then when releasing and pressing down again it'll stutter like and then go. Sometimes I have to do it a couple times in quick succession and then it sounds like I'm just revving because I'm pressing the gas so many times.

Is it an automatic? Do you rest your left foot on the brake?

Its not super common but some people drive automatics with both feet, people that do that tend to rest their left foot on the brake and dont realize it. Modern cars have a failsafe system that turns the throttle off or dumbs it down a lot if the gas and brake are pressed at the same time. It became a standard a little after the runaway toyotas were killing people that wanted to get out of their car notes.
If you're not a two foot driver then it kinda sounds like transmission related but its kinda hard to say without being with the car.

[sevron]

Nope, certainly am not a two foot driver. It is an automatic though, but I've driven manuals so left foot just rests on the far left.

[sevron]

I have a 2023 Camaro LT1, automatic. It's mostly stock, I've added a Borla ATAK and Roto-fab CAI to it roughly 2 months after I bought the car. Bought it new in Oct. 2022.
I have also never put anything less than Shell 93 v-nitro gas into the car, not even a single time.


I've not had any issues with it, it's mostly been driven on the interstate, furthest trips has been from North Carolina down to Florida and back and up to Illinois and back.
About a month ago I've started having an issue where when at a stop light, when I press the gas it takes 2-3 pumps to get it to go, acting as if it didn't want to go. I had someone look at it as well for me and they mentioned that it sounded like it was misfiring when I pulled up to their house, before they even looked at the engine or codes, etc.


I did take it to the dealership on Monday this week and have. heard back from them. This is what they said:


"is there a aftermarket cold air intake on the vehicle? the aftermarket cold air intake could cause lean codes as it will pull more air in than the stock intake causing lean condition which will put the motor temporarily in limp mode and cause CEL and lean codes"


I did confirm it had one, however mentioned that it was installed ~2 months after buying the car new, so why has it waited until now to start causing issues. Their response was:


"sometimes it does take drive cycles and time before the issue could arise - it could be intermittent as well not happening all the time and now that the ECU changed its parameters expecting a certain amount of air, and occassionally it receives more air than commanded it will show that concern. engineering for the vehicle air/fuel ration system is finicky and many times you could run 1000's of miles and everything be okay with no signs of concerns, and out of no where programming triggers an event and since it saved that event when the ECU sees the same event it triggers a CEL and lean codes which are detrimental to the vehicle will go into limp mode."


"2 months the vehicle was driven ~700 miles so the vehicle may not have been driven enough to show that conern - 4000 miles a year estimated on the history of the vehicle so i would be hard pressed to say you would see an issue swiftly. it definitely would take time to occur the ECU will do whats called pulling timing, which it will reduce the actual air fuel ratio and pull power back a bit, you may not even notice it or it may feel like it reduces power for a quick second, may not throw a check engine light but its doing live data changes on the fly - especially the LT1 - the 6.2l relies heavily on the MAF sensor to meter the air, if it sees more air entering the system the engine can dumb down and throw codes randomly"


The dealer's recommendation is to put the stock intake back on.


I called up RPM Motrosports which I know has a decent rep around my area and told them what was going on with it and they said it could be the O2 sensors have been correcting what the dealer said the entire time and just now starting to fail. Also mentioned the spark plugs may be "gunked up" from this as well. They also recommended I tune for the roto-fab cai after getting the o2 sensors and sparkplugs replaced. They are wanting $150 for dagnostic, then parts if the sensors/sparkplugs need to be replaced and then $1000 for the tune.


My friend said to just get the car back and drive it a bit more fairly rough to see if I can cause the issue to occur more frequently than just randomly and then replace the o2 sensors and get the tune.


I'm not that savvy with car stuff, this is my first performance car and just need to know what/how to fix this.


Any suggestions on fixing this?