[Driv200]

I found a 2021 ZLE 6sd! Under 5000 miles with stage 3 BTR and a decent list of upgrades to compliment the package. Curious if there are any “watch out” areas I should look first or ask about?

* I assume it will need tires
* Will the factory clutch hold 760rwhp. What is recommended upgrade?
* I read good things about a cradle? Needed?

Thanks for help & support.

[Driv200]

Great input! Thanks. ��

[RobZL1]

How to win friends and influence people. LOL

It might not need tires. If it is under 5k miles and has 760rwhp, I'm guessing the tires might have been upgraded already.

Yes, the factory clutch is good to almost 1000whp, per Katech.

Do you mean cradle bushings? You can buy inserts that help eliminate most movement without adding NVH, or you can buy 1LE solid bushings and eliminate all movement and add NVH. EDIT- just saw it's a 1LE, so it already has solid bushings.

You are likely aware of the oil pump issues, but I'm guessing that got addressed with the upgrades. The oil pump is the only thing on these cars that seems to ever cause major problems. Otherwise, I'd just treat it like any other used car purchase in terms of what to look for. I'd drive it and data log it if you can, and look at the tune (or get someone to look at it). That will tell you a lot on a modded car.

[Driv200]

I need friends! Thanks for feedback. Very helpful. Good to know already has solid bushings. It’s a 2021….am I right oil pump was addressed ‘19 forward.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

See if you can get a read of the ECM and see how it's tuned, if it's too aggressive or tuned to run lean + then maybe that could tell you a bit of info that isn't obvious to the visual inspection?

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Driv200

I need friends! Thanks for feedback. Very helpful. Good to know already has solid bushings. It’s a 2021….am I right oil pump was addressed ‘19 forward.

That's true. Oil pump SHOULD be good, but if I personally had a '21 and put a cam in it, I'd still put a Katech pump in it at the same time.

And yes, the best thing you can do is get a data log of the car, particularly with lamdba data if it has a wideband installed. Could also log it on a dyno as a condition of purchase.

[christianchevell]

Having come from a 13 with 427 I built I used a Monster clutch, and the Surge you will experience from the "Bucking" due to the stage three cam......some say is just a exercise for your clutch leg coasting in parking lots..... But can be annoying if your in a Bumper to Bumper traffic area for a daily... But you can get used to it. What ever supporting mods were done to the Car, a good Catch can is a must, I use a e2x ultra from elite, other use mighty mouse etc.... I also have the PCV bypass, and some mods being installed now.. Katech pump, Smith Bros trunnions, Lme Timing cover and dogbone tensioner with C5r chain... Just thoughts safe is better than sorry, and Good Luck, I installed a separate Clutch reservoir on the 13 and a speed bleeder but usually just used a syphon bulb when i saw it turn dirty fluid...... Good Luck , I use a magnetic oil Plug and break an engine in with good ZDDP oil,( br30 break in oil from Driven racing and thats what I ran for oil in the 427 LS 30 oil) . Even a hydraulic roller cam needs a good foundation...... Good Luck

[KingLT1]

Valve springs should be checked every 10-15k miles. Since you bought the car already modded, I would have the valvetrain inspected for proper installation and wear. Check spark plugs and see how they look. Have tune checked...basically I get cautious when someone mods an engine to that degree and off loads it shortly after paying all that money for the work. Normally they are not happy about something but won't disclose that. They will say something like, selling because need money to buy a house or business.