[BMoneyMan]

Hello all,

I am getting my 2022 SS 1LE aligned next week. Car is track only, so a track alignment is warranted. Stock suspension.

Anyone have adjustment specs they recommend?

[MechanicalEng]

If you are only tracking the car I would recommend getting as much camber as you can in the front, the GM track alignment specs are OK to start with but as you get faster you will start to wear the outer edges of your tires. I run ~-2.7F/0Toe and ~-1.9R/stock toe and still wear the other edges of the tires more rapidly that the inner side.
I am getting an alignment done next week, with a bit of work I am hoping to get -3F and -2.5R

[RedHot_1SS_1LE]

For purely track, the only change I would suggest to what is outlined in the Performance Supplement would be maxing out negative camber in the front. Stock hardware should get you at least -2.5 degrees. Beyond that, the track alignment should be best for stock (or equivalent) tires.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by MechanicalEng

If you are only tracking the car I would recommend getting as much camber as you can in the front, the GM track alignment specs are OK to start with but as you get faster you will start to wear the outer edges of your tires. I run ~-2.7F/0Toe and ~-1.9R/stock toe and still wear the other edges of the tires more rapidly that the inner side.
I am getting an alignment done next week, with a bit of work I am hoping to get -3F and -2.5R

This is good advice. I took several steps getting more aggressive with my alignment (basically more camber and closer to zero toe) as I’ve owned the car. It wasn’t necessarily a bad thing IMO because my skill has grown along with the changes.

Anyway, I started to think my alignment was all good (-2.6f -1.7r and zero toe all around). I even took temps across the tire after various sessions. It SEEMED I found the right settings. HOWEVER, this car continues to wear the outside faster than the inside; especially the front outside shoulders.

My next step is to max out camber all around and if that doesn’t solve it, maybe get camber plates. (I’ve already done the front strut mod which you can look up).

Back to the recommendation. I’m with MechanicalEng. GM manual is a great place to start but expect as your speed and skill improves, to take it even further.

[Christian1LE]

I started with factory alignment and the toe was eating the inside of my fronts. They corded at about 650 track miles

I then maxed out everything and set toe to 0. Got -2.5 all around out of stock suspension. My tires lasted twice as long with 0 toe but the car did feel a bit twitchy on long straights, wasn't an issue in the corners and once I got used to it, it was fine. Tire wear switched to the outside of the tire instead of the inside that my toe settings were causing.

Now I'm running camber plates with -3.2 at the front and -2.4 at the rear with the slightest negative toe up front(-1/32)and positive in the rear(+1/32). Running mostly slicks but haven't been able to get a gauge for wear yet.

[DaveC113]

For track only get Vorshlag camber plates and SPL rear toe links, I'd start around 3.2 ft, 2.2 rear neg camber, zero toe ft, and a little toe-in out back. Rear toe reduces power-on oversteer, I run more than most as it helps with autox, about .1 per side. I'd half that for track only. Then you can increase camber if needed and maybe add a little ft toe-out.

Without the parts, just max out camber and same suggestions on toe.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by MechanicalEng

I am getting an alignment done next week, with a bit of work I am hoping to get -3F and -2.5R

Getting those numbers on stock hardware isn't possible. You would need aftermarket camber plates up front (or elongate the existing front camber adjustment holes) and aftermarket toe and/or camber parts in the rear.

It is a good idea to replace the 4 rear bolts before the alignment for a track only car to have a better chance of them holding the rear alignment for longer if you don't buy aftermarket parts for the rear like those offered by SPL. The stock rear bolts are known for not holding alignment well especially when reused. The I reused mine once and gained rear camber while losing rear toe after a lot of driving at different tracks (including plenty of curb use) in under a year.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502324

My recommendation is to max camber front and rear (with the camber number being identical side to side on each axel) while keeping 0 front toe and slight toe in in the rear as recommend in the performance supplement. With stock rear hardware, there's a point where you can't get any more rear camber while maintaining the recommended rear toe; I believe that is around -1.8°.

Make sure you find a shop/tech willing to do what you ask and be precise. A race specialty shop would be best. Lots of the alignment techs I have dealt with at chain stores are lazy and/or incompetent and they might only be willing to follow the exact specs in the Hunter computer rather than the specific specs you request.

[Christian1LE]

I got -2.5 out of the stock rear with 0 toe, definitely possible.

[cdrptrks]

Interesting, do you have any pictures of the cam positions on the rear bolts? Did you see what technique was used to get it? I would like to get more rear camber but multiple alignment techs have told me mine is maxed out with less than -2° but maybe they're incorrect.

Or maybe more rear adjustability range was added to newer model years?

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Interesting, do you have any pictures of the cam positions on the rear bolts? Did you see what technique was used to get it? I would like to get more rear camber but multiple alignment techs have told me mine is maxed out with less than -2° but maybe they're incorrect.

Or maybe more rear adjustability range was added to newer model years?

I have a 21. And a great alignment race shop. Max rear was -1.8 and held .125 total toe in. A friend with same toe got -1.95. Get rid of toe and maybe get a little more camber but -2.5 sounds like a stretch.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Interesting, do you have any pictures of the cam positions on the rear bolts? Did you see what technique was used to get it? I would like to get more rear camber but multiple alignment techs have told me mine is maxed out with less than -2° but maybe they're incorrect.

Or maybe more rear adjustability range was added to newer model years?

Not sure, I've since moved on to bmr toe rod and some spl arms. I only have the alignment sheet at home, no pictures from underneath unfortunately.

I was surprised myself, I just asked them to max camber all around. And those are the numbers that were on my alignment sheet.

I'm on vacation now but I can post it when I get back.

[Christian1LE]

Found it on my phone, here it is.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Found it on my phone, here it is.

Wow, great numbers on the rear!

[Texan4iu]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

I started with factory alignment and the toe was eating the inside of my fronts. They corded at about 650 track miles

I then maxed out everything and set toe to 0. Got -2.5 all around out of stock suspension. My tires lasted twice as long with 0 toe but the car did feel a bit twitchy on long straights, wasn't an issue in the corners and once I got used to it, it was fine. Tire wear switched to the outside of the tire instead of the inside that my toe settings were causing.

Now I'm running camber plates with -3.2 at the front and -2.4 at the rear with the slightest negative toe up front(-1/32)and positive in the rear(+1/32). Running mostly slicks but haven't been able to get a gauge for wear yet.

Christian, curious if the added toe out up front increased any of your tire wear. I'm not on slicks, but just added the SPL front caster rods, adding some positive caster and some toe out (-1/16 Total Toe). Wondering if I'll see an increase in tire wear with the minimal toe out added.