[JSH]

The title pretty much says it all. I want the tire patch to be even down the strip, and I'm wondering if my camber is adjustable enough to get to zero or +.

[Msquared]

I doubt anyone ever tries, but my guess is that it can to zero or very close to it. The limitation on getting max camber in back is actually the toe adjustment: you get a to a point where more camber forces toe out because the toe adjusters run out of range. That might be an issue going trying to get to zero, but in that case it would force toe in, and a little toe in isn't a bad thing for drag racing. So I think you can get there.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Msquared

I doubt anyone ever tries, but my guess is that it can to zero or very close to it. The limitation on getting max camber in back is actually the toe adjustment: you get a to a point where more camber forces toe out because the toe adjusters run out of range. That might be an issue going trying to get to zero, but in that case it would force toe in, and a little toe in isn't a bad thing for drag racing. So I think you can get there.

I'm asking because my assumption is that the tire would make a wider uniform patch if it had zero camber.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by JSH

I'm asking because my assumption is that the tire would make a wider uniform patch if it had zero camber.

It would. It's worth considering that at a drag launch, most cars (especially those with IRS and stock geometry) squat a fair amount. And most of those gain native camber as their suspensions compress in squat. So it may actually be ideal to start with positive rear camber at static ride height. You'd want to try to measure much compression is taking place and set the car to have zero camber at that point of suspension travel. I have no idea if the stock links and adjusters allow for that, though.

Note that this is a terrible idea for anything but drag racing, and will actually give you less rear lateral grip and make the car more prone to spinning out!

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Msquared

It would. It's worth considering that at a drag launch, most cars (especially those with IRS and stock geometry) squat a fair amount. And most of those gain native camber as their suspensions compress in squat. So it may actually be ideal to start with positive rear camber at static ride height. You'd want to try to measure much compression is taking place and set the car to have zero camber at that point of suspension travel. I have no idea if the stock links and adjusters allow for that, though.

Note that this is a terrible idea for anything but drag racing, and will actually give you less rear lateral grip and make the car more prone to spinning out!

I agree that removing the camber defeats Chevy's design, but this is a straight-line car that won't be racing at Watkins Glen. +1/2 degree seems like a good start.

[Briland_1LE]

Sounds like you've got a pretty serious car with some serious goals. Get some SPL Arms and dial it in.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Briland_1LE

Sounds like you've got a pretty serious car with some serious goals. Get some SPL Arms and dial it in.

I assume you're referring to these guys https://www.splparts.com/products/ca...c-lockout.html

[Boost Creep]

+1 on adjustable arms if needed to get to zero camber.

Also, for straight line traction, bigger diameter is the answer.
Larger tire patch longitudinally versus larger patch laterally.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

+1 on adjustable arms if needed to get to zero camber.

Also, for straight line traction, bigger diameter is the answer.
Larger tire patch longitudinally versus larger patch laterally.

Agreed. My Mickey Thompson ET street R 305 45, 17 Is the tallest 17" tire I can get on it at 28+ inches. Their 315 will not fit.

[Briland_1LE]

Originally Posted by JSH

I assume you're referring to these guys https://www.splparts.com/products/ca...c-lockout.html

Yeah, just curious what do you do with your car? Drag strip?

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Briland_1LE

Yeah, just curious what do you do with your car? Drag strip?

Yea, which is three miles from my house versus the track which is 70 miles.

I sent your SPL arms to my mechanic who came back and said he has these adjustable upper arms from AN Performance in stock. Have you seen them? They have been popular on Mopar. https://aadperformance.com/products/6th-gen-drag-pack

[jlaudio11]

So I've read through this and has the original question been answered? Can it be aligned to zero with stock suspension?

[easttxss]

You should be able to get to at least 1.0 with the factory arm. My passenger side is at -1.0 and the adjustment cam is in the centered, neutral position. That tire wore perfectly flat over it's 26K mile life. The drivers side is at -2.4 plus (going off memory here) and it wore the inner 1". I need to re-align it with the new tires, but just haven't got around to it yet.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by jlaudio11

So I've read through this and has the original question been answered? Can it be aligned to zero with stock suspension?

The OEM rear is currently at -0.9 and -0.8 after being adjusted by a reputable local suspension shop. They told me there's no more adjustment left. My performance shop says they can get it to +-0.0 or even slightly positive with one of the arms I've mentioned. I'm thinking, is traction really affected by such small fractions of a degree?