[TC2018SS1LE]

If I floor my car in first while moving I get a large amount of loss of traction (nannies kick in). Can this be completely eliminated through suspension mods or just reduced?

[Gasoline_Farts]

Modulate your throttle input. Stock these cars have the power levels of 80s super cars, if it weren’t for the nannies they’d be wrapped around trees all over town. Top level nascar and f1 drivers have more power than they can use with their level of grip available, it is up to them to demand as much torque as possible (I.e press gas as much as possible) without breaking traction. Once you can do that, then consider upgrades.

[TC2018SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Gasoline_Farts

Modulate your throttle input. Stock these cars have the power levels of 80s super cars, if it weren’t for the nannies they’d be wrapped around trees all over town. Top level nascar and f1 drivers have more power than they can use with their level of grip available, it is up to them to demand as much torque as possible (I.e press gas as much as possible) without breaking traction. Once you can do that, then consider upgrades.

I am also aware of why the nannies are there, which is why they are always on in my car.
I am very much able to modulate the throttle, but it doesn't change the fact that I like to be able to stomp on the gas.

It is a yes or no question, Please either answer the question or do not reply, I don't want the thread going off topic.

[Boost Creep]

No.

[TC2018SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

No.

Ty

[Boost Creep]

There are so many variables involved in wheel hop, only addressing one will not "solve" the hop.

First thing I would check would be the alignment paying special attention to the rear.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by TC2018SS1LE

If I floor my car in first while moving I get a large amount of loss of traction (nannies kick in). Can this be completely eliminated through suspension mods or just reduced?

First off, there is a big difference between a loss of traction and wheel hop.... Next, this is not a "yes or no" question.

You have left a ton of variables on the table for us to choose from.... Lets try to narrow it down.... And I'll stay with the "topic" of your limited comments...

Are you spinning the tires and the nannies are kicking in...???

Are you actually experiencing wheel hop, as in trying to rattle the fillings out of your teeth violent bouncing from the back...???

Stomping the throttle from a stand still, or low speed, can spin the tires enough that traction control or torque management or some other safety feature kicks in... reducing power....
This is simply fixed by setting the nannies properly... or turning them off selectively....
It can also be managed by sporting better tires.... If you have good tires, then maybe they need more heat before whacking the throttle....
Being more selective in where you whack the throttle with cool tires, or even warm tires.... Some road surfaces are not conducive to traction.

IF, it's actual wheel hop, then suspension modifications can help reduce the incidence or severity of these events. It will not entirely eliminate it. If that was possible, then pro drag racers would never have that problem.

You can look into trailing arms, toe rods, cradle bushings, (I don't recommend solid bushings) diff bushings, etc... Anything designed to firm up the rear suspension and keep the tires aligned looking straight down the track....

[Vtor_ZL1]

Wheel hop = tires



Get less grippy tires, they will spin w/o the hop


Example:



1. my winter tires, blizzak LM32 275 wide, stiff af sidewall, they are great for smooth, wheel hop free wheel spin and great slides.
2. My dd tires, michelin PS 4S, nice, comfy soft sidewalls, suck for sliding, and are greaatt for wheel hop, rattle you filling right out.


So.. next time you want less wheel hop, get less grippy tires or tires w reallllllyy stiff sidewall, maybe both.

[TC2018SS1LE]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

First off, there is a big difference between a loss of traction and wheel hop.... Next, this is not a "yes or no" question.

You have left a ton of variables on the table for us to choose from.... Lets try to narrow it down.... And I'll stay with the "topic" of your limited comments...

Are you spinning the tires and the nannies are kicking in...???

Are you actually experiencing wheel hop, as in trying to rattle the fillings out of your teeth violent bouncing from the back...???

Stomping the throttle from a stand still, or low speed, can spin the tires enough that traction control or torque management or some other safety feature kicks in... reducing power....
This is simply fixed by setting the nannies properly... or turning them off selectively....
It can also be managed by sporting better tires.... If you have good tires, then maybe they need more heat before whacking the throttle....
Being more selective in where you whack the throttle with cool tires, or even warm tires.... Some road surfaces are not conducive to traction.

IF, it's actual wheel hop, then suspension modifications can help reduce the incidence or severity of these events. It will not entirely eliminate it. If that was possible, then pro drag racers would never have that problem.

You can look into trailing arms, toe rods, cradle bushings, (I don't recommend solid bushings) diff bushings, etc... Anything designed to firm up the rear suspension and keep the tires aligned looking straight down the track....

Ty for the through response

I just put the BMR suspension trailing arms and control arms on, and it helped a lot.
Why don't you recommend the solid bushings? I was considering the lockout kit depending on the replies I got.
I believe sometimes it is a loss of traction and others wheel hop. It is a little hard to tell cause when the nannies kick in they jolt the car a little. But I'll turn them off and give it a try.

Traction is an issue. If you watch this you will actually see the traction control kicks in at the top of first :(


I live in the desert, so it isn't cold, and that was after a 15 Mile drive and 2 other runs, so the tires are not cold either.

I'm running the MPS4s.

[TrackClub]

OP: if you havent already pls read the sticky on PTM (and other nanny) functions. They VARY A LOT in terms of the car's behavior and picking a right set up will absolutely make a difference. I am going to make a guess that for your purpose (straight line runs) you'd likely like Competitive Mode, which turns off TC so you have full control of power with your R foot, while retaining Stabilitrak in case you exceed safe yaw parms.
You may also wish to experiment with PTM settings and see how they suit your purpose. Cheers!

[TC2018SS1LE]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

OP: if you havent already pls read the sticky on PTM (and other nanny) functions. They VARY A LOT in terms of the car's behavior and picking a right set up will absolutely make a difference. I am going to make a guess that for your purpose (straight line runs) you'd likely like Competitive Mode, which turns off TC so you have full control of power with your R foot, while retaining Stabilitrak in case you exceed safe yaw parms.
You may also wish to experiment with PTM settings and see how they suit your purpose. Cheers!

Thank you for the info!
I read this before but totally forgot about it.
Means more to me now that I specifically know what I'm looking for.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by TC2018SS1LE

Ty for the through response

I just put the BMR suspension trailing arms and control arms on, and it helped a lot.
Why don't you recommend the solid bushings? I was considering the lockout kit depending on the replies I got.
I believe sometimes it is a loss of traction and others wheel hop. It is a little hard to tell cause when the nannies kick in they jolt the car a little. But I'll turn them off and give it a try.

Traction is an issue. If you watch this you will actually see the traction control kicks in at the top of first :(


I live in the desert, so it isn't cold, and that was after a 15 Mile drive and 2 other runs, so the tires are not cold either.

I'm running the MPS4s.

Wheel hop is far beyond the “jolt” you may perceive when you spin and the nannies kick in... wheel hop will rattle the car from end to end repeatedly and violently...

From the video, which I have deleted from your post as a courtesy, (we don’t allow that type of posting from the street) you spun a little at the top of first, not at all unusual... you are at the peak of your HP range.... I used to do the same thing in 1 through 5th gears up to and exceeding 200 mph, though on a track...

That is not wheel hop, it’s simply spinning... Now, if you suffer the bone jarring seat bouncing teeth rattling I describe here, first off, get off the loud pedal... wheel hop is the easiest way to break parts...

The bits you describe you’ve put in will help, and so will a firm urethane bushing... solid bushings can get “hot” spots, where only a small bit of the metal is touching creating other issues... the cups in the cradle are stamped, not machined, and are geared towards a slightly softer than solid bushing... I originally went solid, took them out and went urethane... I had better results with a bit more power than you are making...

Tire spin, as was mentioned, adjust the nannies and carry on... Wheel hop, look at the alignment, tire pressures, make sure everything is tight... etc... I’m on my iPad but I can go into more detail on my laptop later today if you like on wheel hop and the causes....

[TC2018SS1LE]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Wheel hop is far beyond the “jolt” you may perceive when you spin and the nannies kick in... wheel hop will rattle the car from end to end repeatedly and violently...

From the video, which I have deleted from your post as a courtesy, (we don’t allow that type of posting from the street) you spun a little at the top of first, not at all unusual... you are at the peak of your HP range.... I used to do the same thing in 1 through 5th gears up to and exceeding 200 mph, though on a track...

That is not wheel hop, it’s simply spinning... Now, if you suffer the bone jarring seat bouncing teeth rattling I describe here, first off, get off the loud pedal... wheel hop is the easiest way to break parts...

The bits you describe you’ve put in will help, and so will a firm urethane bushing... solid bushings can get “hot” spots, where only a small bit of the metal is touching creating other issues... the cups in the cradle are stamped, not machined, and are geared towards a slightly softer than solid bushing... I originally went solid, took them out and went urethane... I had better results with a bit more power than you are making...

Tire spin, as was mentioned, adjust the nannies and carry on... Wheel hop, look at the alignment, tire pressures, make sure everything is tight... etc... I’m on my iPad but I can go into more detail on my laptop later today if you like on wheel hop and the causes....

First, thank you for deleting the video.

The only reason I keep on using the term wheel hop is because of my talks with BMR. I was told that even though I may not feel the effects of the traditional wheel hop that you are describing there can be small amounts which do not feel like what you describe which interfer with acceleration and adding more rigidity to the rear would help. Maybe suspension movement or difflection is the term I should use?


As you can see in the videos they refer to it a lot too, even when not getting the jarring we traditionally feel.

https://youtu.be/fleIegn6aNs

https://youtu.be/00iB0NMKzH4

When referring to the stock car, in videos, and during a conversation, the phrase I hear often is "launching harder, reducing wheel hop..."

I can literally link a dozen it more videos using the same terminology.

[TC2018SS1LE]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Wheel hop is far beyond the “jolt” you may perceive when you spin and the nannies kick in... wheel hop will rattle the car from end to end repeatedly and violently...

From the video, which I have deleted from your post as a courtesy, (we don’t allow that type of posting from the street) you spun a little at the top of first, not at all unusual... you are at the peak of your HP range.... I used to do the same thing in 1 through 5th gears up to and exceeding 200 mph, though on a track...

That is not wheel hop, it’s simply spinning... Now, if you suffer the bone jarring seat bouncing teeth rattling I describe here, first off, get off the loud pedal... wheel hop is the easiest way to break parts...

The bits you describe you’ve put in will help, and so will a firm urethane bushing... solid bushings can get “hot” spots, where only a small bit of the metal is touching creating other issues... the cups in the cradle are stamped, not machined, and are geared towards a slightly softer than solid bushing... I originally went solid, took them out and went urethane... I had better results with a bit more power than you are making...

Tire spin, as was mentioned, adjust the nannies and carry on... Wheel hop, look at the alignment, tire pressures, make sure everything is tight... etc... I’m on my iPad but I can go into more detail on my laptop later today if you like on wheel hop and the causes....

What is your opinion on the lock out kit?