[Chris 2018 ZL1 A10]

Hi fellas,

I’m preparing to install my Elite E2-X next week, a few questions if I may:

1. I need a smaller torque wrench for this job. Is “Capri Tools” 1/4” 20-245-in lb. a decent tool ($36.99 at Lowe’s) or should I be looking at something better?

2. I’m planning on replacing the bolts that go into the heads. One of the rear bolts in particular is apparently is a real PITA to remove. Is it possible to r/r it without having to completely remove the SC?

I welcome responses to this or any other suggestions you may have.

Thanks,
Chris

[Mark R]

I did this job in 2018, but as I recall, here are my tips:

I don't remember having trouble taking out a rear SC bolt, so maybe it's just one of those difficult but doable things.

All you have to do is release the belt and after removing the lid and bolts, lift the front of the SC up a couple of inches and put a little piece of wood or something in there to hold it up enough so you can remove the PVC valve.

I was particularly paranoid that the gaskets/o-rings that seal the SC to the intake manifold would get out of place when I lifted it up, and I was able to see under the SC to inspect that they indeed did not move.

I think the torque wrench will work just fine.

You will probably have to grind an angle on the PVC diverter nipple that you put in place of the PVC valve, so it can screw in properly. I could describe it for 2 paragraphs, but once you start to install the diverter, it will become obvious what needs to be done.

I think the weakest part is the one bolt bracket that holds the actual catch can. I bolted mine together and had the two pieces welded underneath so the angle would not change due to vibrations, etc.

Here is a pic.

It's not hard. Just be careful, don't rush and drop anything into the engine.

[ZX-10R]

Some of the youtube videos show a replacement bolt and gasket kit from GM, but consensus seems to be it's ok to re-use the bolts and gaskets/seals?

[sickss228]

I just re installed my blower and re-used the bolts and gaskets with no problems. The blower to head bolts are only 10 nm or 7.4 ft/lbs just snug them very lightly with a 1/4 ratchet then torque them twice at 10 nm going from the middle out.

[Chris 2018 ZL1 A10]

Originally Posted by Mark R

I did this job in 2018, but as I recall, here are my tips:

I don't remember having trouble taking out a rear SC bolt, so maybe it's just one of those difficult but doable things.

All you have to do is release the belt and after removing the lid and bolts, lift the front of the SC up a couple of inches and put a little piece of wood or something in there to hold it up enough so you can remove the PVC valve.

I was particularly paranoid that the gaskets/o-rings that seal the SC to the intake manifold would get out of place when I lifted it up, and I was able to see under the SC to inspect that they indeed did not move.

I think the torque wrench will work just fine.

You will probably have to grind an angle on the PVC diverter nipple that you put in place of the PVC valve, so it can screw in properly. I could describe it for 2 paragraphs, but once you start to install the diverter, it will become obvious what needs to be done.

I think the weakest part is the one bolt bracket that holds the actual catch can. I bolted mine together and had the two pieces welded underneath so the angle would not change due to vibrations, etc.

Here is a pic.

It's not hard. Just be careful, don't rush and drop anything into the engine.

Hi Mark,

Thank you for your response. I believe EE has since modified their PCV valve by boring a slightly deeper hole where the diverter nipple screws in thus enabling adequate clearance but I’ll find out next week. I’m relieved to hear that the underside gaskets to the manifold remained in place and that the rear SC head bolt didn’t give you a hard time. As per the MX manual recommendations that someone posted on the other CC thread, I intend to reuse the cover bolts and replace the bolts that go into the head.
I need to find a suitable 1/4 torque wrench and buy the gasket kit & bolts.

I’m hoping to start this party next week!

Chris

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by Chris 2018 ZL1 A10

Hi Mark,

Thank you for your response. I believe EE has since modified their PCV valve by boring a slightly deeper hole where the diverter nipple screws in thus enabling adequate clearance but I’ll find out next week. I’m relieved to hear that the underside gaskets to the manifold remained in place and that the rear SC head bolt didn’t give you a hard time. As per the MX manual recommendations that someone posted on the other CC thread, I intend to reuse the cover bolts and replace the bolts that go into the head.
I need to find a suitable 1/4 torque wrench and buy the gasket kit & bolts.

I’m hoping to start this party next week!

Chris

You don't need gaskets. They are high tech silicone o rings sealing the SC to the intake. You would have to completely remove the SC to replace them, necessitating much more work.

[Chris 2018 ZL1 A10]

Originally Posted by Mark R

You don't need gaskets. They are high tech silicone o rings sealing the SC to the intake. You would have to completely remove the SC to replace them, necessitating much more work.

It is my understanding that the gaskets and head bolts come complete in a package deal for around $90. Only other GM option is to pay more than twice that for individual bolts.

Chris

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by Chris 2018 ZL1 A10

It is my understanding that the gaskets and head bolts come complete in a package deal for around $90. Only other GM option is to pay more than twice that for individual bolts.

Chris

OK. Well, there you go. I didn't replace any bolts, since that was not a known thing at the time.

Let us know how it goes.

[v8]

Originally Posted by Chris 2018 ZL1 A10

It is my understanding that the gaskets and head bolts come complete in a package deal for around $90. Only other GM option is to pay more than twice that for individual bolts.

Chris

I didn't know you could buy them as a kit (bolts and gasket) for cheaper, that is good to know.

I was the one that posted the video and I'm working on a kit that will save you from cutting the factory hose by the throttle body. I need an honest opinion of what you think its worth? It will be the same as the one in my video, but will have a different connector that goes in so you can plug your 3/8" hose right on to it. So this kit will work with any catch can and make your install easier.

I think you are making a good choice with the Elite Can, they have a very good design, and have a patent (or patent pending).

My only suggestion to improve the design is get a fully ported diverter for under the blower and put the restrictor near the can. I think elite can give you a fully ported valve and they sell a separate restrictor. If they can't MightyMouse has a very good quality fully ported diverter (same price) valve that needs no grinding, it is very high quality and the one I use in my video.

The way they have it set up is the restrictor is under the blower which means the whole system (both lines) are restricted.

If you put a restrictor in the line running to the throttle body then what you have done is restricted the main line to the blower(good), but the secondary line that is tapped into your intake will be unrestricted. I think restricting the line at your air intake is too much, as that does not pull much vacuum to begin with, and when you need it, you have the most blow by (WOT) so I think its better not to restrict that part. Just my two cents.

That's how I set up my system, with the addition of the emergency blow off if it is ever needed. I will have an update video dropping on my channel today.

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by Chris 2018 ZL1 A10

It is my understanding that the gaskets and head bolts come complete in a package deal for around $90.

Have you ordered this already? What is the GM part #?

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by v8

My only suggestion to improve the design is get a fully ported diverter for under the blower and put the restrictor near the can. I think elite can give you a fully ported valve and they sell a separate restrictor. If they can't MightyMouse has a very good quality fully ported diverter (same price) valve that needs no grinding, it is very high quality and the one I use in my video.

Thanks, do you have a link? Looking forward to the video

[Biscuit.fr]

You have to remove the SC lid
Clean the oil
You can remove the SC lid plate (a lot of oil trapped) for noise +
The green gasket (I was also concerned) is plastique, in good shape, reusable and will stay on the lid... so don’t worry with this one
You have to rise the front of the SC after removing the bolts because you need some space to switch PC valves...
A piece of wood will be ok to work the space.
Then remove the old plastic valve
New PC valve:
I cut with a dremel 2 extra marks to screw it
Then 45deg at the end to clear the engine when you screw it
(I think the new one as a new design like a 90 deg to fix that)
I cut also an Old tool key to make it specific to screw the PC valve
Then you connect your lines and go backwards to tight your bolts.
The only bolts to be changed are the 10 SC lids
I did it 3 times!!!
Put the CC, removed it stock for my EU homologation (living in France) then put it back again. Just changed those 10 bolts only the last time.
The OEM ones worked fine the first 2 times (just be careful when you torque them)
I think there is a special package on amazon or eBay to get juste the 10th.
(Don’t have the link anymore sorry)
You have a YouTube link
Go to Elite CAtch can install camaro ZL1 ;-)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aLn_hy5pxH4

[v8]

Originally Posted by ZX-10R

Thanks, do you have a link? Looking forward to the video

Here is the video, I don't have a link. You can just google mightymouse, but Elite may sell it as well. Not sure.




I show the fully ported part at 13:57. It is high quality.

[Biscuit.fr]

I think it’s too much mess
Std Elite configuration, you just have to cut only 1 hose to insert a T,
Here there is too much building and pipe and connexions to save only 1 OEM hose....