[USRobo]

I want to have the decorative flooring in my garage.

1. Do any of you have your garage floors redone? (Pictures)
2. What do you recommend.
A. Paint
B. Epoxy
C. Tiles
D. Other

3. What should I expect to pay?

Thanks,

[laynlo15]

Regular old concrete.

[2016SS]

Garage floor epoxy is the only one I would recommend they use it on most showrooms and factory's.

Forget the others should also try and get a professional if it's messed up on application it would become very expensive to remove.

Mines concrete and I will just keep it that way get some quotes and make sure they have at least a 1 year warranty on cracking ect. If they can't stand behind there work then it's not reliable!

[SSport16]

Epoxy base with Polycuramine clear coat...best stuff, looks and holds up awesome!

[Frank237]

There are several good YouTube videos on installing an epoxy based covering. The prep is the key it seems.

FWIW...a buddy did his garage floor but didn't add any of the GRIT that they show in the videos. Walk in there with wet feet and you fall on your ass. So use some grit.

[camaromike77]

Originally Posted by SSport16

Epoxy base with Polycuramine clear coat...best stuff, looks and holds up awesome!

Yes. I just had this applied to my floor last Fall. Had 4 coats applied, with 5 different colors - black, white, silver, gray, black. Floor is guaranteed for life. Set me back roughly $1200 cash....... Oh, and it matches my Camaro and the house LOL......

[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by nickgiacalone

I've seen too many people that the epoxy peels up after 5 years or so.

The typical epoxy floor kits you get at the big box store won't hold up over time to acids, petroleum products, or high heat, like a hard run motorcycle tire. My neighbor came pulling into his garage after a hard run on his motorcycle and pealed up a strip of the cheap stuff around his back tire.

To do it right, I use two versions of the PPG Aquapon two part epoxy. Clean, sand and acid etch the floor to get all of the contaminates off, then rinse thoroughly and let dry. The cleaner, the better. Your base coat should be with the water based Aquapon (?). The top coat should be with the solvent based Aquapon (35). These two products are compatible with each other. The water based Aquapon will flow into the micro-pores of the concrete and reduce/eliminate bubbling. Follow all directions, vent well, and use a respirator.

This stuff is used to coat pipes that are immersed in sea water and will handle solvents and battery acid.

My gargage floor is going on 20+ years and still sealed. It does have some stains in it, but the integrity is still good after all of this time.

Here's my new toy shop with the Aquapon treatment.

[Artos]

I just had the garage AC'd & checker board floored...with basic vinyl tiles. I originally wanted to do the concrete stain, but had an extremely heavy safe & just decided on tile as it would be easier to work around vs. moving that 5000lb behemoth.

The ZL1 will not be a daily driver and taking the punishment of a regular garage...still, no idea how well the tile will hold up or if I may put something down on top where she'll park.

[SS 1LE]

I have black and white checkerboard tiles in mine, with heavy duty wall paint...

[camaromike77]

As mentioned earlier, mine is epoxy and guaranteed for life. The Company has been in business for quite some time, and my buddy had his garage floor done 10+ years ago, and it looks like it was just done yesterday. I just went out and took a few pics for you.

"Sorry" the pics are so large. I don't know how to correct that.

[oneredry]

I know its hard to tell. I've done the Rust 0 luim and looks fantastic at first. did everything they asked me to and ends up peeling with in a month. This will be the 3rd time I've done it and I'm not doing it again. My next step is to have it completely stripped and have it done professionally. (Even though I regret not doing it in the first place, I feel that having it professionally done is so expensive. here is what I have.



This one has wax on the floor.

[Drysideshooter]

I'm a builder and developer. We do quite a few epoxy garage and shop floors. Acid etching prior to epoxy is a good choice if the concrete is relatively recent, a couple years or less old. If it's much older than that it's best to use what is called a floor scarifier. It will actually abraid the surface a bit and give the epoxy something to key in to. Even with newer concrete it's the absolutely best way to go, though you can get by with acid etching.

One of the biggest problem folks can typically have is lifting under warm tires, especially if a tire is warm when the vehicle is parked, and then sets for some time, and is turned a bit without the car in motion.

Like a lot of coatings, preparation is the key. We build hundreds of houses and most folks are very happy with epoxy floors. We have also had folks remain very happy with concrete floors that were treated with a concrete sealer that is designed to be applied when the concrete is still green. For a new slab it's not a bad way to go, and is less expensive.

[cignul9]

Epoxy in mine. Been down for ~5 years now and it still looks great.

[oneredry]

Originally Posted by Drysideshooter

I'm a builder and developer. We do quite a few epoxy garage and shop floors. Acid etching prior to epoxy is a good choice if the concrete is relatively recent, a couple years or less old. If it's much older than that it's best to use what is called a floor scarifier. It will actually abraid the surface a bit and give the epoxy something to key in to. Even with newer concrete it's the absolutely best way to go, though you can get by with acid etching.

One of the biggest problem folks can typically have is lifting under warm tires, especially if a tire is warm when the vehicle is parked, and then sets for some time, and is turned a bit without the car in motion.

Like a lot of coatings, preparation is the key. We build hundreds of houses and most folks are very happy with epoxy floors. We have also had folks remain very happy with concrete floors that were treated with a concrete sealer that is designed to be applied when the concrete is still green. For a new slab it's not a bad way to go, and is less expensive.

I agree 100%. however, my thought process is against the type of product I'm using. I've done everything (including etching which comes with the stuff) and my concrete is in excellent shape as my house is about 5 years old. I am really anal retentive. that said, my guess is just because its a 120.00 cheap epoxy. (talking about rustoluem brand epoxy).