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Old 01-15-2017, 11:49 AM   #1
EFI Tuning
 
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Kooks 2" Header Install (updates as I go)

I just started the installation. To keep me from rushing I'm going to try and document some of the more subtle steps and post as I go. I full expect it will take me all day with this approach.

Step 1

- jack up the car. This approach nets me just over 17" of clearance at the side skirts.

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Step 2
- Oil change and rear axle fluid change are due so I will let those drain for a bit while I work on the post-seconday cat cuts.
- Fluids drained

Step 3
- Cut the pipes right after the secondary cats. Kooks provides the measurements.
- I rented a chain cutter from Autozone. It cut through like butter. A quick deburring with the Dremel and they are good to go.

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Step 4
- Drop the aluminum cradle piece
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Step 5
- remove starter
- remove manifold shields

Last edited by EFI Tuning; 01-15-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 01-15-2017, 12:11 PM   #2
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yep, I change oil same time front and back, I did not buy the GM stuff, it was an autozone fluid with LSD additive already in, I have a bottle of posi quite and intend to add in as needed, so far the diff has been quite I did hear it just a tiny bit one day while backing out and it was 29 degrees out. Nothing compared to my Dana 60 in the 440 Dart.

PRAY did say he is doing the cut before the AFM, I don't have the AFM and was going to do a crush pipe fix (probably with slide hammer and braze) and put them just before the muffler. It will interesting to see whey yours end up.
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Old 01-15-2017, 01:36 PM   #3
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Are those 10" or 12" race ramp cribs?
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Old 01-15-2017, 02:18 PM   #4
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10"

The back set can be stacked.
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Old 01-15-2017, 10:55 PM   #5
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Passenger side is buttoned up. Driver side is in. I will finish it in the morning. The passenger side is the side that slows the progress way down. Like PRAY I found it worthwhile just to pull the passenger side valve cover to get the manifold out. On the driver side I took the steering shaft out before the manifold and it literally dropped out the bottom. The headers go in pretty easy. Everything annoying is GM related.

Tips

- get an air compressor and compact air ratchet. I didn't and wish I had. 60-90 minutes saved right there.

- pull passenger side valve cover. Don't waste time thinking about it. Just do it.

- it is not necessary to remove the starter wires from the starter. You may just need to maneuver the starter here and there.

- remove the steering shaft before the manifold. It will come out the bottom with no effort.

- have a buddy handy to help you position the headers while you get the bolts going

- the zip tie fiasco on the passenger side... i just cut the ties and ditched that POS bracket completely.

- the dipstick tube will not come out until you remove the manifold to head bolts.

It's a DIY job but don't tackle this one if you are under time constraints, aren't mechanically inclined, or don't have diverse tool box.

Tim
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFI Tuning View Post
10"

The back set can be stacked.

Those are slick. Any reason not to go with 12" ones? Gonna order a set, looks like they're both about the same price.
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFI Tuning View Post
Passenger side is buttoned up. Driver side is in. I will finish it in the morning. The passenger side is the side that slows the progress way down. Like PRAY I found it worthwhile just to pull the passenger side valve cover to get the manifold out. On the driver side I took the steering shaft out before the manifold and it literally dropped out the bottom. The headers go in pretty easy. Everything annoying is GM related.

Tips

- get an air compressor and compact air ratchet. I didn't and wish I had. 60-90 minutes saved right there.

that is in my tips also, a 1/4 drive long handle ratchet flex head Kobalt can reach and take all bolts out. Also need 1/2, 3/4" and 1" extensions.... can't be done without the correct extension setup first, at lease easily.

- pull passenger side valve cover. Don't waste time thinking about it. Just do it.


Did not pull mine, nor the plugs nor the coil cover. the stock header came out no problem. Maybe the auto trans is in the way?

- it is not necessary to remove the starter wires from the starter. You may just need to maneuver the starter here and there.

yep,

- remove the steering shaft before the manifold. It will come out the bottom with no effort.

yep

- have a buddy handy to help you position the headers while you get the bolts going

yep
- the zip tie fiasco on the passenger side... i just cut the ties and ditched that POS bracket completely.

I pried them off, broke one, then PRAY tells me the front vapor canister ones can be released with little screwdriver... and probably the other ones too.

- the dipstick tube will not come out until you remove the manifold to head bolts.
yep

It's a DIY job but don't tackle this one if you are under time constraints, aren't mechanically inclined, or don't have diverse tool box.


I started a write up in the how to section, with the correct ratchet and extensions, it was about 45 minutes a side, I would try next time to NOT remove the plugs and coil cover from the drivers side. That took 15 minutes and IMO with the removal of the steering shaft, it is not needed to remove the plugs. I have 1 and 7/8 header. I will take all the tips and include. Sorry working two jobs again or I would have finished.
.



Tim
enjoy the power...
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.

Last edited by oldman; 01-16-2017 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:53 AM   #8
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Those are slick. Any reason not to go with 12" ones? Gonna order a set, looks like they're both about the same price.
12" will be too high IMO unless you have a jack with a very high lift. I was able just clear the 10" on the front. Depending on the jack you may even need to use a block of wood to give you enough lift. I'm also using the ZL1Addons pinch weld adapter. It's worth the money. GM did us no favors on jack points on this car.

Tim
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:49 AM   #9
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Installed and running. I just need to bolt up the cradle brace and finish the diff fluid
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFI Tuning View Post
12" will be too high IMO unless you have a jack with a very high lift. I was able just clear the 10" on the front. Depending on the jack you may even need to use a block of wood to give you enough lift. I'm also using the ZL1Addons pinch weld adapter. It's worth the money. GM did us no favors on jack points on this car.

Tim

I used 4x4 fence post and creative cutting with a saw I made a 4" and a 6" side, they really help with my aluminum jack (limited height).
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:42 PM   #11
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Oldman. I don't know how you would get the pass side manifold out without removing the valve cover. That is a feat I would have to see. Or are you saying the pass side manifold came out from the bottom? I removed both of my manifolds from the top. Not removing the plugs is ballsy as well. I like your style. I made the mistake of removing my starter. No need for that.
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Old 01-17-2017, 01:46 AM   #12
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I think I got both of the out from the bottom. The starter has to come out IMO, I don't think the hot wire has to come out, I basically took the hot off just to put it right back on. I put one bolt in the passenger side header like 2 turns and put the starter back in, starter shield dipstick and put the rest of the bolts in.. I did a little bendy bendy on both the shield and dipstick to get the most clearance. Ya know I did not do any work myself my 17 year old and 13 year old were swinging the wrenches, I was "supervising"... i.e. waxing the car and saying hurry up and something about grandma could do it quicker ever 10 minutes.
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:10 AM   #13
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I think I got both of the out from the bottom. The starter has to come out IMO, I don't think the hot wire has to come out, I basically took the hot off just to put it right back on. I put one bolt in the passenger side header like 2 turns and put the starter back in, starter shield dipstick and put the rest of the bolts in.. I did a little bendy bendy on both the shield and dipstick to get the most clearance. Ya know I did not do any work myself my 17 year old and 13 year old were swinging the wrenches, I was "supervising"... i.e. waxing the car and saying hurry up and something about grandma could do it quicker ever 10 minutes.
LOL. My girls are only 12 and 9 so they aren't getting anywhere near this car for a while.
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:16 AM   #14
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LOL. My girls are only 12 and 9 so they aren't getting anywhere near this car for a while.


My son is only 3 but I guess I could start him young!!
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