[Bangkok_ZL1]

I never posted pics of what I did on this install, and I got a moment so here we go.

I made sure everything I could keep of the ZL1 stayed on the car, and I added something extra. As you can see, I kept the passenger side (for 375 of us RHD guys) air tunnels. I "dremeled" a hole just the right size to allow the hoses to pass through. I also cut the crash bar supporting plastic behind (and) the black foam into Threes. Therefore, the front facia is held on in the same way as stock. Yes, there was a lot of cutting (inch by inch by inch (actually more like mm by mm) to make it exact size) and dremel work on the plastic, especially around the Drier. The plastic actually surrounds the drier. Everything on the front stays tight on the car so driving over here doesn't shake anything loose, loctite everywhere. The air horn was connected using the intercooler bracket. I put the pics of that uninstalled here earlier. After a few thousand miles and being up over 120MPH a few times, everything is still tight in every way. I used wooden chair/table castor holders in multiple places, especially on the back of the foam to lock pieces down for stabilization. I find the utility of castor holders amazing. You can see two of them (upside down) holding down the front plastic cover. I'm contemplating putting some black screen (1/2" square holes) behind the front grill in an attempt to protect the interchiller hoses from debris. Because here you never know.... And I don't want to unnecessarily drive 40MPH at 2am barely touching the fuel because I have very hot MATs just to limp home.

[radz28]

Did you, also, remove the auxilliary blower HE, too? I think I remember CSP doing something similar when he was doing that on TREEL1...

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Looks good! radz28 asked above and I'm curious too. Did you remove the stock HC? I bought the Stage 2 a while ago and Katech just installed it. Here are the pics they sent.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...&postcount=422

I had them remove the stock heat exchanger as after many conversations with Kirk @ FI Interchiller he told me the stock heat changer for my application isn't required. I drive my car only in good weather, spring summer good fall days etc. IT gets really hot in the summer here in Columbus OHIO so I will put mine to good use ! But regardless, I like seeing how others install the same products etc.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Looks good! radz28 asked above and I'm curious too. Did you remove the stock HC? I bought the Stage 2 a while ago and Katech just installed it. Here are the pics they sent.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...&postcount=422

I had them remove the stock heat exchanger as after many conversations with Kirk @ FI Interchiller he told me the stock heat changer for my application isn't required. I drive my car only in good weather, spring summer good fall days etc. IT gets really hot in the summer here in Columbus OHIO so I will put mine to good use ! But regardless, I like seeing how others install the same products etc.

Hot in Columbus? I used to live right up the 23 in Delaware (Rutherford B Hayes high). Damn that was long ago. No, here in Thailand it's HOT. Today was a very cold day here in Udon Thani. Everybody has their coats on now, it's 65 at 10pm. That's how hot it gets here. We are wearing coats at 65, LOL. I was in short sleeves when I lived there and it was 65..., the snow was unbearable.

Anyways, Yes, I also talked to Kirk extensively, and I initially was going to leave the heat exchangers it in for Road Racing. Andy at CSP called it a fail-safe in his video, and I talked to him once as well. However, after running Miss America for a few thousand miles while touring, no fail safe is needed if you're monitoring your temps with an i-dash. I drive my baby sometimes for 8 hours straight and it's great. Does heat soak take place? Yea, somewhat, after a while, but as long as your fan is set to most aggressive which Kirk recommends, and/or you have some wind on the condenser, the MAT temps drop right back to 80 (or probably less for you). And actually, my fans have yet to be tuned to most aggressive. I also don't have a tank yet. The chiller is awesome by itself. And I loved installing it. As for the heat exchanger(s). There are two of them, 1 in front of the A/C condenser and the other is where I put my Air horn, which will be fully operational for my next 2000km trip just before Valentine's day. The air horn is using the heat exchanger's bracket. That's what I liked about doing it myself. I could contemplate exactly what I wanted and how I wanted to accomplish it. I also cut out the solenoid and switch against the recommendation of Kirk. But this is Thailand. Unless you live in the North West (mountains), nobody ever drives without their A/C on, ever. In April it will be over 100 here. By the way, yours looks nice. Nice idea using the heat exchanger screen in front of the wheel-well vent. With my bumper off right now I might do that as well, Thank you

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Yeah, I was going the fail-safe route just like CSP's video, but Kirk talked me out of it. So I just went as basic install as possible! All winter long I never wear a coat or even a jacket. Some people are just wired that way ! Take care and stay cool !

[Booher]

Maybe a little off topic, but how does it effect the inside cabin ac? I've read that it doesn't effect it much, but would like someone with actual experience to chime in. I only ask, because it gets super hot, 125 at times and I don't want to lessen my ac too much.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by Booher

Maybe a little off topic, but how does it effect the inside cabin ac? I've read that it doesn't effect it much, but would like someone with actual experience to chime in. I only ask, because it gets super hot, 125 at times and I don't want to lessen my ac too much.

Well. I guess I'm not really a person to ask on that one because I had to switch to 134A, which is highly illegal for you. There is no YF here in Thailand, at all. All brand new cars come with 134A here. So I legally got to switch. With 134A, my cabin is nice. I lost a couple degrees. but I'm also not finished with the final dial in. And I don't have an expansion chamber. My interchiller is bare bones, in Thailand where it is also VERY hot and this thing rocks. I'm so glad I bought it, along with the F. I. Interchiller's spacer plates, and thermal blanket. BTW, if you're going to buy the spacer plates, which I recommend, be prepared for some customizing. When you raise the supercharger about 1/2 inch, many things that fit perfectly, no longer do. The Roto-Fab cold Air elbow, the PVC Tubes, Serpentine Belt, etc.

[randeez]

Originally Posted by Booher

Maybe a little off topic, but how does it effect the inside cabin ac? I've read that it doesn't effect it much, but would like someone with actual experience to chime in. I only ask, because it gets super hot, 125 at times and I don't want to lessen my ac too much.

also in 90+ambient temps 10 months out of the year
fought with freon charge in mine for a little bit, but seems to be working well now (will know for sure as we get back into summer)
cabin ac is a little diminished the first few minutes of driving while the hx coolant is getting chilled (chiller tx wide open) as the fluid is chilled, tx starts to close down and send more back to the cabin. if you overcharge it, it doesnt work as well
in mine(ctsv) and i think your camaros have the same variable ac compressor, if the cabin temp is met it will start to lower compressor output, which lowers refrigerant to chiller also, itll keep fluid under ambient, but if you want it cold you need to leave cabin on max or have solenoid to blockoff cabin.

[Booher]

Interesting, thanks for the input! I'm torn between this and heat exchangers upgrade. I'll keep on researching, appreciate it!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

When I get my car back from Katech, I'll get some data and do some data logs and see what / how the FI Interchiller Stage 2 they installed helps, especially as it relates to the ECM pulling timing or not etc.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1

I never posted pics of what I did on this install, and I got a moment so here we go.

I made sure everything I could keep of the ZL1 stayed on the car, and I added something extra. As you can see, I kept the passenger side (for 375 of us RHD guys) air tunnels. I "dremeled" a hole just the right size to allow the hoses to pass through. I also cut the crash bar supporting plastic behind (and) the black foam into Threes. Therefore, the front facia is held on in the same way as stock. Yes, there was a lot of cutting (inch by inch by inch (actually more like mm by mm) to make it exact size) and dremel work on the plastic, especially around the Drier. The plastic actually surrounds the drier. Everything on the front stays tight on the car so driving over here doesn't shake anything loose, loctite everywhere. The air horn was connected using the intercooler bracket. I put the pics of that uninstalled here earlier. After a few thousand miles and being up over 120MPH a few times, everything is still tight in every way. I used wooden chair/table castor holders in multiple places, especially on the back of the foam to lock pieces down for stabilization. I find the utility of castor holders amazing. You can see two of them (upside down) holding down the front plastic cover. I'm contemplating putting some black screen (1/2" square holes) behind the front grill in an attempt to protect the interchiller hoses from debris. Because here you never know.... And I don't want to unnecessarily drive 40MPH at 2am barely touching the fuel because I have very hot MATs just to limp home.

Bravo... well done

[airtroop01]

Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1

I initially was going to leave the heat exchangers it in for Road Racing. Andy at CSP called it a fail-safe in his video, and I talked to him once as well. However, after running Miss America for a few thousand miles while touring, no fail safe is needed if you're monitoring your temps with an i-dash.

You absolutely need to keep your heat exchanger and get a bypass valve if you're going to open track/HPDE it. The Interchiller is good to super cool the IC fluid and lower the MAT temps so each run you're not fighting heat soak. However, once you get on it - assuming you're WOT, brake, turn, WOT, brake, turn, repeat - you're going to heat all the available fluid you have. You can extend the time with a bigger reservoir, but 20-30m continuously going WOT is a while compared to a 9-10s run or street use.

It definitely works, but until someone can figure out how to put a Prius or Volt AC compressor so it runs off the battery and doesn't shutdown when continuously WOT, it won't fully keep you cold for 30m. Regardless you'll be better off than the guy without one and the bypass valve can open and you'll be with your heat exchanger if you have one - once the IC fluid temp = ambient temps.