[Dardecor]

Hey guys. Im changing my rotors and pads for the first time. I already have the OEM parts. I will be tracking my car soon so I'm anal about doing this right the first time.

I noticed that the rear brake pads come with shims and lubricant, but the front doesn't. I have a few questions...

1. Are the two really small bottles of lubricant enough to grease where the pistons touch on all 8 pads (front and back for all 4)?

2. Should I grease the pins that hold the pad when I push them back in?

3. I'm not really finding anything for the front shims. Are shims not needed for the front?

[WhiteMale]

Im not familiar with the shims I've put on Powerstop Z26's on two cars and don't remember anything about shims. For lube I do like to have a tube of Permatex, because I too think the little bit that is supplied might be not enough. Dont' over do lube though. and yes lube the pins.
Tip that I had on my car, make sure that the pins are all the way through and fully seated on the caliper, you might need a little love tap with a hammer to seat them all the way.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Dardecor

Hey guys. Im changing my rotors and pads for the first time. I already have the OEM parts. I will be tracking my car soon so I'm anal about doing this right the first time.

I noticed that the rear brake pads come with shims and lubricant, but the front doesn't. I have a few questions...

1. Are the two really small bottles of lubricant enough to grease where the pistons touch on all 8 pads (front and back for all 4)?
You don't need this. It's only for sound control. You're tracking, so sound is way down on the list of brake system attributes.

2. Should I grease the pins that hold the pad when I push them back in?
No.

3. I'm not really finding anything for the front shims. Are shims not needed for the front?

No. Again, they are for sound control. I spoke to a GM performance engineer about the shims. They are not for heat control, they are for sound. I have removed all the shim material from the back of my HP1000 pads and the Ferodo DS2500 and DS1.11 pads do not even come with shims. You'll get a little better pedal feel by removing the shims.

What part # pads did you purchase? Usually the OE Ferodo HP1000 pads will not have shims that are separate form the pad. They are already stuck on the pad. And they also usually do not have any lubricant in the package.

Answers in RED

[cdb95z28]

The front OE 2018 ZL1 Ferodo HP1000 pad is part # AC Delco 171-1192/ GM 23399101.
The top pad is the OE ZL1 pad. Ignore the bottom pad, it is a different application.




The rear OE 2018 ZL1 Ferodo HP1000 pad is part # AC Delco 171-0882/ GM 89047744
So it looks like the rears do come with lube.

[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Answers in RED

Below is exactly what I ordered.

Front Brake Pads:
23399101
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZII84I...roduct_details

Front Brake Rotors:
84271643
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792LX8DG...roduct_details

Rear Brake Pads:
89047744
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NW4OM0...roduct_details

Rear Rotors:
85589610
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-85589610

[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

Im not familiar with the shims I've put on Powerstop Z26's on two cars and don't remember anything about shims. For lube I do like to have a tube of Permatex, because I too think the little bit that is supplied might be not enough. Dont' over do lube though. and yes lube the pins.
Tip that I had on my car, make sure that the pins are all the way through and fully seated on the caliper, you might need a little love tap with a hammer to seat them all the way.

Thanks for the tip. Did you buy something like this separately? https://a.co/d/gSnl6uX

[Dardecor]

Also, sound is a pretty big concern for me. Yes I am tracking, but I don't want them squealing at every stop off the track. My current OEM setup stops really good and has never made a squeaking sound. I'm not sure why this one can't be the same.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Dardecor

Also, sound is a pretty big concern for me. Yes I am tracking, but I don't want them squealing at every stop off the track. My current OEM setup stops really good and has never made a squeaking sound. I'm not sure why this one can't be the same.

Your concern is completely reasonable. In fact, as I learned from another GM engineer, one who was part of the Gen6 copper free brake package development, sound is at the very top of things they are concerned with.

Any squeal sound can depend on the state of bed in on your brakes, meaning the state of transfer layer on your rotors. More aggressive pads will have the potential for more sound. But the HP1000 pad is a great dual purpose street/race pad. It can make some noise. No transfer layer usually will cause sound. The HP1000 pads will not squeal (loudly) like a full on race pad but they can make a some noise. I personally do not mind any squeal. But others may not care for it. It is not always a sign of of anything wrong. If the components look good, then it can be a sign of a lack of transfer layer. Race pads can also have slight squeal even when there is a transfer layer.

Guys who complain of squeal on their HP1000 pads, typically don't put enough heat into them to get a transfer layer put down. Mild street driving. So what happens is they are in abrasive friction mode all the time, just grinding those pads into the rotor.

No transfer layer=abrasive friction mode (think sandpaper friction)
Transfer layer=adherent friction mode (think sticky friction like tape)


This is an important part of track use. The owners manual mentions bed in. You'll want your brakes bedded in for track use. Adherent mode is easier on your rotors as far as wear goes, as long as you are not overheating the brakes. Notice I said easier on rotors. Adherent mode will still wear your pads. If you are not aware of the two different modes of friction above, here is some great sources of info:

www.centricparts.com/media/wysiwyg/technical-bulletins/TECH_BULLETIN_C22-01.pdf

www.centricparts.com/media/wysiwyg/technical-bulletins/TECH_BULLETIN_C22-02.pdf




Great video on bed in:




A hot trick to help brake cooling is to install the Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing front brake deflectors. But be aware that too much cooling can keep the brakes in abrasive friction mode. But I doubt you would be overcooling your ZL1 brakes. Lots of HP=lots of straightaway speed=lots of braking. I personally have removed the Blackwing deflectors from my copper free brake system (bigger front brakes than your ZL1) equipped '22 SS 1LE. I was running the DS 1.11 race pad and I was getting rotor wear. Too cold can keep the system in abrasive mode.

[The Maverick]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

If you are not aware of the two different modes of friction above, here is some great sources of info:

www.centricparts.com/media/wysiwyg/technical-bulletins/TECH_BULLETIN_C22-01.pdf

www.centricparts.com/media/wysiwyg/technical-bulletins/TECH_BULLETIN_C22-02.pdf

Interesting articles - thanks for posting those!

[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by The Maverick

Interesting articles - thanks for posting those!

Second this. Thank you for all of the information cdb95z28