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Old 03-07-2025, 11:47 PM   #1
Baddawg53
 
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6
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Location: NorCal
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Suspension setup, track only car

I'm in the midst of a little bit of a car rebuild after my son spun the car off the track and broke a bunch of stuff in the front. Lots of bent and broken plastic and brackets, aux radiator, trans cooler, splitter etc etc. I also found a shock with some oil around the seal, and I don't know if this was caused by the little crash or just from use. Rather than getting it rebuilt I decided this was a great excuse to spend thousands of dollars on a set of MCS 2 way remotes. It'll have 800# & 1100# springs.

So now I'm going to finally be replacing all the poly suspension parts with spherical bearing, and these fancy new dampers. I'll have to reset the alignment, ride height, corner weights and rebuild the splitter.

Prior to this little incident, my ride height was pretty low, and running 18 inch wheels really made it low. It's sitting about 2 1/2" off the ground on the sides, and this also makes the splitter very low and scrapes pretty good on track.

So I'm curious, when I set up this whole new system, what do you all feel would be the ideal ride height, alignment settings? What angle is your splitter sitting at? For those with MCS two ways, what spring rates are you running? What damper settings did you end up with?

My goal is to get the best suspension setup I can and hopefully gain 2-3 seconds over my current pace at Sonoma(1:45) and Laguna(1:37).

For information purposes, my car is a 2017 SS(non 1le), 3500 pounds, 600whp 525tq, 315/30/18 square Hoosier R7's, APR wing.
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Old 03-10-2025, 07:27 PM   #2
eimarshall
 
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Breaking something is just an excuse to make it better!!

I think AJ Hartman mentioned in a video that running the splitter between 3-4" off the ground gives pretty optimal results. Lower will net you more DF but only until the airflow gets choked off. 2 1/2" may be feasible if you are running significantly stiffer springs.

I ran my splitter with about 1.0 degree of pitch.

Are you going to do a tunneled splitter? I have some tunnel molds I designed specifically for the Camaro in order to clear the aux radiators...
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Old 03-11-2025, 08:47 AM   #3
Baddawg53
 
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6
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I was considering raising the car a little bit just to make my life easier, but don't really want to sacrifice performance for it. Even raising it to 3 inches would at least allow me to get my jack under the car and help with loading it on the trailer.

I ordered the hartman splitter mounting kit, and some tunnels from another place, think it was professional awesome racing. Also wings from NLR. Where did you find the Camaro specific tunnels? I'm hoping these fit ok, be a couple weeks before I fab it all up.
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Old 03-11-2025, 12:33 PM   #4
DaveC113

 
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You'll love the shocks. I'm running 750/850 (rear coilover with the Vorshlag steel mounts).

Also, Hotchkis ft bar and ZLE rear bar, both in the middle settings.

Ride height is lower and I'm running a lot less rake than stock.

I also just replaced the oem radius arms with ZLE arms. SLE and ZL1 have fluid filled bushings that break, one was fully gone, the other just started to leak. I would NOT go SPL on this or the LCAs, SPL does not use ball joints they use bolts that imo are not suitable for the application and the parts are simply not as strong as oem. The oem radius rods are pretty large/burly pieces of aluminum, I can't imagine replacing them with SPL to be honest. I have not noticed any issues with lowering the car a bit but I suppose at some point the roll center adjustment on the LCA would be nice. I do use SPL rear toe arms and roll bar links.

Here's a pic with Apex 18x12 EC7RS and 295/35/18 RE71. I'm about to try out the Vitour P1s in 345/30/18 square.

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Old 03-11-2025, 03:47 PM   #5
eimarshall
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddawg53 View Post
I was considering raising the car a little bit just to make my life easier, but don't really want to sacrifice performance for it. Even raising it to 3 inches would at least allow me to get my jack under the car and help with loading it on the trailer.

I ordered the hartman splitter mounting kit, and some tunnels from another place, think it was professional awesome racing. Also wings from NLR. Where did you find the Camaro specific tunnels? I'm hoping these fit ok, be a couple weeks before I fab it all up.
I designed and made the tunnel molds but never got a chance to put them on my car before I sold it. They are just collecting dust now.
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Old 03-12-2025, 02:08 AM   #6
Baddawg53
 
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC113 View Post
You'll love the shocks. I'm running 750/850 (rear coilover with the Vorshlag steel mounts).

Also, Hotchkis ft bar and ZLE rear bar, both in the middle settings.

Ride height is lower and I'm running a lot less rake than stock.

I also just replaced the oem radius arms with ZLE arms. SLE and ZL1 have fluid filled bushings that break, one was fully gone, the other just started to leak. I would NOT go SPL on this or the LCAs, SPL does not use ball joints they use bolts that imo are not suitable for the application and the parts are simply not as strong as oem. The oem radius rods are pretty large/burly pieces of aluminum, I can't imagine replacing them with SPL to be honest. I have not noticed any issues with lowering the car a bit but I suppose at some point the roll center adjustment on the LCA would be nice. I do use SPL rear toe arms and roll bar links.

Here's a pic with Apex 18x12 EC7RS and 295/35/18 RE71. I'm about to try out the Vitour P1s in 345/30/18 square.

A 345 will fit up front?? That's a lot of tire!!

My car is a regular SS, so no fluid filled radius arms, they're the same as the ZLE already. I previously upgraded the lower control arm to the 1le, and have no intention of swapping that out. Long time ago I installed the BMR non adjustable poly arms in the rear, all 6 of them, those are the ones I plan on replacing with spherical bearings.

I'm really hoping there's a significant improvement in the car immediately after the MCS are in. The expectations are super high so I hope I'm not disappointed. The current setup is really good, car was pretty dialed in and handles great. I know I still have time to gain with the current setup, but upgrading parts that aren't holding me back is kinda what I like to do!!
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Old 03-12-2025, 02:09 AM   #7
Baddawg53
 
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6
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Originally Posted by eimarshall View Post
I designed and made the tunnel molds but never got a chance to put them on my car before I sold it. They are just collecting dust now.
I guess I missed that you don't have the car anymore! Did you swap it out for something else? If you can post a picture of the tunnels I'd love to see how they compare to the ones I bought
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Old 03-12-2025, 05:54 AM   #8
carguy55

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimarshall View Post
Breaking something is just an excuse to make it better!!

I think AJ Hartman mentioned in a video that running the splitter between 3-4" off the ground gives pretty optimal results. Lower will net you more DF but only until the airflow gets choked off. 2 1/2" may be feasible if you are running significantly stiffer springs.

I ran my splitter with about 1.0 degree of pitch.

Are you going to do a tunneled splitter? I have some tunnel molds I designed specifically for the Camaro in order to clear the aux radiators...
I built my 1st splitter using AJs mounting kit and like others found no room for tunnels due to aux coolers. I'd love to see what you did for tunnels for my next splitter which I plan to make quick release.. Love that AJs kit has the raised option for extra clearance. Its just under 4" in the low position and about 4-1/2 raised.

I'm also running SPL parts and MCS 2-way remotes coilovers from Vorshlag.
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Old 03-12-2025, 12:14 PM   #9
DaveC113

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddawg53 View Post
A 345 will fit up front?? That's a lot of tire!!

My car is a regular SS, so no fluid filled radius arms, they're the same as the ZLE already. I previously upgraded the lower control arm to the 1le, and have no intention of swapping that out. Long time ago I installed the BMR non adjustable poly arms in the rear, all 6 of them, those are the ones I plan on replacing with spherical bearings.

I'm really hoping there's a significant improvement in the car immediately after the MCS are in. The expectations are super high so I hope I'm not disappointed. The current setup is really good, car was pretty dialed in and handles great. I know I still have time to gain with the current setup, but upgrading parts that aren't holding me back is kinda what I like to do!!
No, 345s do NOT fit, they poke a little over an inch depending on camber and spacers used. I found some flares that are a perfect fit and will make them removeable so if I want to run oem it won't look ridiculous.

The car is much nicer to drive on track and a good bit faster with the MCS sus. I started out with the front at 75% to full stiff and the rear at 50%, both comp and reb, works great. For street and autox I run a lot less damping. I didn't get as much t&t time as I'd like last year, it takes some time to correlate settings to car handling but I feel like you'll get a good feel for it over time, which is extremely valuable experience as dialing in shocks absolutely makes for faster times.
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Old 03-12-2025, 12:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carguy55 View Post
I built my 1st splitter using AJs mounting kit and like others found no room for tunnels due to aux coolers. I'd love to see what you did for tunnels for my next splitter which I plan to make quick release.. Love that AJs kit has the raised option for extra clearance. Its just under 4" in the low position and about 4-1/2 raised.
I'm interested too!

It doesn't look like there's a good opportunity to use tunnels and the only real advantage you can get out of a splitter is extending it past the oem splitter unless you want to compromise cooling. AJ's Camaro splitter is really expensive for a part that's easy to damage, it looks awesome but $2600 seems like a ton of cash for what it is.
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Old 03-12-2025, 01:41 PM   #11
Baddawg53
 
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC113 View Post
No, 345s do NOT fit, they poke a little over an inch depending on camber and spacers used. I found some flares that are a perfect fit and will make them removeable so if I want to run oem it won't look ridiculous.

The car is much nicer to drive on track and a good bit faster with the MCS sus. I started out with the front at 75% to full stiff and the rear at 50%, both comp and reb, works great. For street and autox I run a lot less damping. I didn't get as much t&t time as I'd like last year, it takes some time to correlate settings to car handling but I feel like you'll get a good feel for it over time, which is extremely valuable experience as dialing in shocks absolutely makes for faster times.

Ahh, I run 315's and they poke just a bit, nothing crazy. I do run a 1 inch spacer and have been told I'll be able to cut that down a little bit with the MCS. Hopefully that's true.

Thanks for the settings, I was probably gonna start in the middle on all the settings and sway bars, have some adjustability in both directions on everything. With the increase in spring rate and different shocks I can't really guess how the car will behave. The car is stiff already, and I have my current 2 ways pretty dialed in on their settings.

I bought some fairly shallow tunnels because of the aux coolers and that whole setup. I'm sure they're not as efficient as Hartman's but better than nothing. Really looking forward to having his mounting kit though, being able to raise the front lip a bit will be huge for me. I'm thinking I'll set the height at 3 inches for the car with a little bit of rake. Really want to be able to get my jack under the car without driving it up on race ramps.
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Old 03-12-2025, 01:45 PM   #12
Baddawg53
 
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC113 View Post
I'm interested too!

It doesn't look like there's a good opportunity to use tunnels and the only real advantage you can get out of a splitter is extending it past the oem splitter unless you want to compromise cooling. AJ's Camaro splitter is really expensive for a part that's easy to damage, it looks awesome but $2600 seems like a ton of cash for what it is.
This is why it's just gonna be wood for me!! Much cheaper to repair once I inevitably break it! The old splitter had cutouts for the trans cooler and extended back the same distance as Hartman's, so I'm gonna use that as a template for the new one.
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Old 03-12-2025, 03:05 PM   #13
eimarshall
 
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Drives: 2018 SS 1LE Hyperblue
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I got a screaming deal on a Katech C7 GS.... :-)

I have yet to actually make the tunnels but these are the molds. I split them into inner and outer tunnels.

The outer tunnels are similar to AJ Hartman's large curved tunnels, but scaled to fit between the bumper and the outer edge of the aux radiator.
https://ajhartmanaero.com/large-curv...ront-diffusor/

The inner tunnels are angled to fit under the aux radiator and still maximize tunnel volume without exceeding typical flow detachment angles(~12 degrees)

The two tunnels could mate together on the shared vertical surface.

I made my splitter very similar to AJ's Camaro splitter. It sloped from about 3/4" at the front to 1/2" at the rear. And it sat nearly flush with the underside of the stock 1LE lip on the sides. The tunnels were designed to attach to the underside of the splitter and the rear edges would be nearly flush with the wheel well liner, and still clear teh aux rad support with about 1/2" to spare.... theoretically....
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Last edited by eimarshall; 03-12-2025 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 03-15-2025, 10:23 PM   #14
wakespeak

 
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I would just install the ZLE suspension + slp rear toe arms and done. Then do -3.0 camber front and -2.0 camber rear with zero toe. The aero will help with high speed apexes over 85mph which to me is less of an objective.
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